If removing oil cooler, why tap the pan?

Dr. Gonzo

Ok, I'm sure this is a total newb question, but I have to ask. After removing the oil cooler I seem to have two perfectly good spots for a feed and return to/from the turbo (B & C pictured). On the bike I pulled the turbo off of, these were just run together with a hose that went around the engine and didn't seem to accomplish much? I'm sure there's a logical reason to tap the pan (D) to go to the turbo and then back to the newly unplugged spot (A). Just figured if I didn't have to go through the trouble of tapping the pan if it's just a personal preference thing I'd rather not.

You can use spots A and B for an oil feed. Spot A is common spot on gen2s, I've seen some lower quality turbo kits use spot B on gen 1s for oil feeds. Generally the oil galley in front of the motor is a good spot if you have the right fitting.

Spot C is too small, and too high for the oil to drain out of the turbo properly.

Spot D is at about the right height, but needs to be drilled on the flat spot of the sump on the pan. And on the left side as well.
Pretty much what I figured... gotta drill the pan. Oh well. I have to look at the fittings I have to see if I can make 'B' work for a feed. I'm having problems finding a reducer to use 'A'. I also saw someone who put a T fitting where the oil sensor is (just under 'A') which might be easier to find fittings for size-wise. If I don't use B or C for anything else, would it make more sense to just block them or was there perhaps some benefit in running the hose around the bike? Maybe a tiny bit of cooling of the oil during the trip around?

Another quick question. I read that I need to pull the allen plug out from behind the oil filter to increase oil flow which is fine. But, would I also need to put the plug back in on the bike going back to stock? Or doesn't it matter? Just got all the holes plugged back up the other night and added some oil to check for leaks. If I don't have to pull off the filter that would be great. :)

the oil cooler outlets, b and c are both tied together via the restrictor , and essentially both pressure lines , either can be used to supply, but they are pre oil filter and A would be preferred

you must remove the restrictor if capping the outlets as the entire motor supply will have to pass through it
on my racebike i go further and either remove the ridge around the restrictor or drill another hole at about 2 o clock intersecting the same gallery, to improve the flow into the filter
K, so technically with a bypass between B & C (rather than capping) the restrictor 'could' be left intact since the oil will flow between them as normal? I'm fine pulling it off the '07 that going to get the turbo and will do this regardless of whether I cap B/C or put the long hose on that routes around the motor. I was just questioning whether I needed to put the restrictor back in on the '01 which is getting the oil cooler back.

If you have the pan off take it to a weld shop and have them weld on a 3/8" plate 2" x 2" square...whatever fits...tap that to the desired pipe thread (very easy)....it will seal way better than a jamb nut on the inside....
the restrictor dictates the flow through the cooler, you could either put it back in the 01 or leave it out , as i am sure you will still get some flow through the cooler , be it much slower

if you put a bypass on the 07 be sure its not more restrictive than the cooler hoses, there
Thanks for the reply guys. Thinking I have to pull apart the '01 and move the restrictor bolt over from the '07. Guess on the '07 if I can't find a clean way of capping B & C I'll just put the bypass hose back on for the time being to keep the oil in the bike where it belongs. It's a pretty big hose so guessing flow won't be an issue. Just glad I didn't add all four quarts to the '01 now that I have to pull off the oil filter. Hopefully the one I put in there to check for leaks will have the level low enough not to lose to much while the filter is off.

On a completely unrelated note, is there a good place to get the little plastic connectors for the throttle bodies to run vacuume lines? I noticed on my '07 that there are a couple that aren't currently used and don't have the plug. The '01 has all 8 hooked up. I tried pulling one out of the '01, but they're in there pretty tight and I don't want to break them off. Seems like such a simple part, but I have a feeling this is going to be one of those where I go to a parts store and they give me a blank look when I ask for them.

Quick update: Little concerned that when I pulled the oil filter off the '01 the restrictor plug was still in there. :O

Per the comment by OZBooster, perhaps it didn't matter as much with the faux-oil cooler hose running around the bike rather than being capped? Anyway, I pulled it off the '07 regardless so now just need to figure out the vacume lines, move over the fuel system, and head out for a tune. Getting closer.

Blockoff plates for B and C are on their way. Does anyone know the size adapter I need for port A? I rummaged around the bins at AutoZone and couldn't find a match. I couldn't get the adapter I need out of the '01 so plugged it with a 1/8" NPT plug. So I need a 'something' to 1/8" adapter I guess. :)

Hmmm... suppose that's a way to go. Just have to figure out a way to grab hold of the little sucker to drill it without damaging the outside threads. :)

Thanks again for the help. Getting closer every day to being able to fire the thing back up again.
Yeah, picked one up today. Just not a lot of surface are to grab onto. Plug is small. Believe it or not I just noticed I don't have a metric drill bit set. Back to the hardware store I go. Always something...

i cut or file flats on the outer diameter, not enough to interfere with the seal face but gives you a better grip for drilling and tapping, and some way of making it tight on the motor when your finished
think the last was filed to suit a 3/4 wrench , maybe 13/16 ?? somewhere about there
Yeah, wondered if that might be an option. My fear if I didn't was that I'd have it in the vise just loose enough for it to go flying or turn on me while drilling or that I'd 'over-vise' it and end up crushing it.

As it happens I ended up finding a T-fitting at my local Advance Auto last night that I think is going to let me use the oil sensor port after all. For some reason it's 1/8" (same as turbo oil fitting). It's kind of scarey since I go from the 1/8" T to a 1/8" 90 degree elbow to another 1/8" elbow which has the flare fitting for the turbo oil feed. The middle elbow had to be there since I couldn't get the other one to screw in since it was too close to the engine. Kind of a crazy frankenstein job but everything lines up now. Once my oil cooler blockoffs come in I'll post a pick of the finished product. Hopefully no leaks and no starvation from all the twists and turns.

Brass I believe. Now that I know the sizes I can go back and get steel though I suppose. The ones on the '01 from the Hahn kit were brass too though I think?

RYC, taking your advice and dropping the pan off at a local speed shop to have them weld in a plate with AN fitting. Hoping they can put it in the front so I can use my existing hose. It's curved though so wondering if it's going to have to go on the side where it's flat. Will be glad when the oil lines are all done. Fuel is 90% there except I can't drop the tank. Something bumping. The fun continues. :p:

More to come,
The finished product:

Finally got all the fuel hoses routed so the tank will drop without pinching them only to find out the tank contacts the bastardized Hahn plenum and won't drop down all the way. It's either back to the welders to move the air pipe to the front of the plenum (and patch the hole on the back) or start looking for another plenum. Anyone got a spare one lying around they want to part with cheap? :) If I go with a front intake I'd need the up-pipe too since mine wraps around the engine and comes up from the back side just between the tank canister and injectors (hence the problem with contacting the tank).

And so it goes...
Sounds like typical Hahn problems. You'll be better just modifying the kit you have to get it to work. Even a used Rcc plenum is gonna run you 4-500, plus charge pipes, and whatever your gonna have to do to the turbo to get it to work.