HW's Inaugural Maintenance

[stgatev]

I am next considering replacing the brake lines, at least the front. I am maintaining ABS by the way. The fork, nose, and side fairings are off and the upper triple tree is loose. I find that I cannot even trace from the hard lines back to the ABS pump! Where the heck is everything LOL? The ABS pump area is outright tiny. I can see removing the bolts on the ABS then wondering how to pull the hardware out, and the same from the front, the hard lines on the controls. Would it help to remove the air intake pipes and air box? That does not look particularly helpful to me.

At a glance this procedure appears to be really ambitious for my experience level.

If you are keeping the ABS, and planning to use the Core Moto kit, do not remove the hard lines leading to and from the ABS unit. The Core Moto front brake lines do not replace the hard lines, only the rubber ones. If you are replacing the rear brake lines, then you will need to remove the hard lines, but only for the rear. You will see the markings on the ABS module for MC1 (that's the front master cylinder), F (front, leading to the junction under the headlights), MC2 and R for the rear M/C and caliper. I could not remove the rear lines cleanly so I cut them, but with patience you might be able to.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

@Mythos thank you much for the detailed insight. You weight loss guys are somewhat eccentric, but have solid solutions.

You might be able to fab up some kind of retainer that holds the wires more loosely. It's especially important to rout wires properly if they are effected by steering movement but you gotta do what you gotta do...I even drilled a hole in a zip tie anchor plate and screwed it to the triple tree where the OEM bracket had been.

You are reading my mind. I wondered if I could bend out the OEM bracket and if not, then those are great solutions. Thanks.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

It's been a long time since I rode my busa but I'm sure mine has always done the same thing. It's kind of a rubber squawking noise when the handle bars are turned to the left or right. I kind of like it. It's a soft cushy noise like sitting down in a leather chair.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

If you are keeping the ABS, and planning to use the Core Moto kit, do not remove the hard lines leading to and from the ABS unit. The Core Moto front brake lines do not replace the hard lines, only the rubber ones.

The Core Moto instructions seem clear that the replacement lines are home runs. ???

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

The photographs, if you can call them that, from Core Moto are awful and unhelpful.

This referred to the printed versions included in the package. I do see that the online versions are decent. They are not quite large enough but they are helpful.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

That "wiring harness guide" goes under the ignition. That is one more layer than I took apart, a nightmare to remove. I may just bolt this together and hope for enough slack.

Presuming mine is the same as the gen3, @Gen3lover thanks a lot for documenting the right side here. I appreciate the photo!

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/how-to-remove-the-spring-wiring-guide-so-i-can-replace-the-steering-lock-cover-see-diagram.207271/

"Suzuki engineers are amazing..." Touche @sixpack577.

The Moto-CNC riser bolts are excessively long and the rear one is scratching the frame. Perhaps they use these for multiple applications. I will see about adding 20 mm to the stock length and hack saw the rest off. I do not have a grinder but perhaps a fine file to smooth the cut. I am unsure if 20 mm is the total lift effect so I have to triple check that the final bolt length is long enough. Yes, I see that the OEM front and rear bolts are different lengths too while the aftermarket are the same size.

<After measuring, the front bolts are stock + 20mm and just the two rear bolts require a bit trimmed to clear the frame.>

 

[stgatev]

The Core Moto instructions seem clear that the replacement lines are home runs. ???

What year is your bike? Mine is '23, and I thought yours is Gen 3.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

What year is your bike? Mine is '23, and I thought yours is Gen 3.

2017

 

[stgatev]

Oh... My apologies. I only referred to the Gen 3. I never looked at the Gen 2 brake system.

 

[Mythos]

I do not have a grinder but perhaps a fine file to smooth the cut.

A mill file will be even better than a grinder but I'd even sandpaper them. Why not? A nice new set of bolts the right length is another option. IDK what the torque spec you're working with is but I'd go with the best grade bolts you have available. It will be a few bucks more. Not necessarily stainless steel, I heard they are more likely to gaul if torque is involved. Never actually had a problem with that but just stating for the record.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

A mill file will be even better than a grinder but I'd even sandpaper them. Why not? A nice new set of bolts the right length is another option. IDK what the torque spec you're working with is but I'd go with the best grade bolts you have available. It will be a few bucks more. Not necessarily stainless steel, I heard they are more likely to gaul if torque is involved. Never actually had a problem with that but just stating for the record.

Thank you. I have been using my bolt gauges and caliper for exact sizing, and now I got from you the lesson on material.

After an attempt with my only method, a hack saw, I came to the conclusion to order new bolts. I was going to go with stainless over black oxide as the bolts supplied are silvery. But I went down the rabbit hole you provided. Moto-CNC bolts are 12.9 strength, not stainless. This is all new info to me. I ordered 12.9 black oxide, the available choice at bolt depot. Suzuki provides 2 black oxide and two silver-colored, oddly. Which I can see now that is perhaps for the same reason, the availability by size.

Also, the OEM is 1.25 pitch and the replacements are 1.5. I will match the Moto-CNC versions as Thou Shalt Not Create Confusion among the nuts.

 

[Mythos]

It'll drive you nuts if your nuts get confused.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I drained the front brakes and removed the master cylinder. I have never touched a braking system before so (like much of this project) this is all new. Almost all fluid came out from the right caliper using the Mityvac. A very small amount then came out of the left.

This was 10 days ago but I have not begun the line removal. I have the end of the only open line covered with a paper towel. I am just now reading that calipers cannot survive even small amounts of time without fluid before corrosion sets in. Are the calipers/pistons at risk?

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I think given all the facts, the neglect of my first bike and how it worked just fine, as well as the the aluminum pistons in the Brembo, that I will not worry about this but just proceed when I can with the new lines.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Here is the documentation for the Brembo RCS 19 Master Cylinder and also the Fluid Reservoir. The font on the paper is insanely small and almost unreadable but this can zoom large on a screen.

RCS 19 and Reservoir Printed Documents

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

On the Helibars there is no punch mark for the clutch master cylinder. I can see all of the exact mounting marks on the OEM bar. But since the Helibar is actually higher and such, Does it make sense to exactly measure the location on the old bar(?). The MC does settle comfortable to a spot in the middle of the available space.

Well, I just put the OEM bar against the new bar and nudged the MC until it appeared to be at the identical spot. The clutch line at full lock seems fine.