How would you build a turbo motor if you had $6k

[gsxr907]

As I said at the start, I am new to Turbo Bikes....Not new to cycles...I have had 3 hayabusa(s) and several zx11's and gsxr750&1100's before this one....after reading, talking and my past...gone through a few motors(booom on spray).....I am in love with a turbo on the bike. I would like to have a more bullet proof package...I need a motor that is built like It was going to run Maxton but for the street / a motor that was built to take 16psi(or more) but will only see 10.
I have helped build a few of my bikes done the big bore kits...but I want it done the right way, right set up up ie; someone who has been there done it parts, tune, etc

 

[Destin07]

As I said at the start, I am new to Turbo Bikes....Not new to cycles...I have had 3 hayabusa(s) and several zx11's and gsxr750&1100's before this one....after reading, talking and my past...gone through a few motors(booom on spray).....I am in love with a turbo on the bike. I would like to have a more bullet proof package...I need a motor that is built like It was going to run Maxton but for the street / a motor that was built to take 16psi(or more) but will only see 10.
I have helped build a few of my bikes done the big bore kits...but I want it done the right way, right set up up ie; someone who has been there done it parts, tune, etc

I ride my bike 100% on the street. I put parts in it that are suppose to handle the largest amounts of HP you can throw at them. So far i just ride on pump gas 14lb-15lb but its tuned to 18lb on pump. Bike made 617Hp heat soaked in 90degree weather, with a turbo that is a little to large for stock cams, and a rear 240 wheel and tire, and 3 degrees pulled. I change the oil and filter every 1000 miles. My bike sees 350HP+ on pump every time i ride. I know my build is overkill but i didn't want to leave a weakness and I figure my bike is not stressing to hard to make this kind of power with these parts.

If i was just street riding and making around 300HP like the majority of turbo guys i would change the rods to the lower psi crower bolts, take off the je pistons, take off the billet cam chain adjuster, take off the ape roller cam chain, take off the 1mm over valves and just do smaller head studs. I figure at 300HP you should have some rods and while the lower end is down do some case studs, you tranny work, valve springs, 2 stage lockup just to make your clutch easier to pull in, base spacer, head studs. I think regular tranny back cut will do but if you are doing any launching or street racing i would go with the heavy duty output shaft and a billet clutch basket.
Some guys are going to say thats way overkill but in my book i would rather save a couple more pennies, get it built right and enjoy it and not worry about it. 300Hp is just to much on a daily basis for stock rods....they eventually will bend, snap, throw ect. Hope this list helps you figure something out. For 6K you should be able to get a good quality build for the amount of power you are looking at make and still have alot left over.

Keep in mind anything can break so we all just try to do the best we know how. Calling Richard at RCC is a great idea and I am fairly sure that if You tell him your looking at running 10-12lb boost hes going to recommend exactly what you need. I dont think you can go wrong with the basic turbo motor mods and then adding in the lower psi bolt crower rods. Like i said my friend has this build and has 17K miles on it.

Motor
*Crower Rods 280K bolts
*JE Turbo Pistons
*oil block offs
*high volume oil gear
*billet 2 inch pan
*billet cam chain adjuster
*windage tray
*APE shift shafts
*APE 65lb valve springs
*APE roller chain conversion
*APE main studs
*1mm over stainless steel exhaust valves
*MTC Billet slider clutch basket
*MTC inner billet hub
*MTC 2 stage lockup
*Billet clutch cover
*New bearings throughout motor
*RCC 13mm head studs
*.080 base spacer

Tranny
*R&D transmission with heavy duty output shaft, nitrous drum backcut, circlip mod, 1st-6th backcut

 

[GPW]

Motor
*Crower Rods 280K bolts
*JE Turbo Pistons
*oil block offs
*high volume oil gear
*billet 2 inch pan
*billet cam chain adjuster
*windage tray
*APE shift shafts
*APE 65lb valve springs
*APE roller chain conversion
*APE main studs
*1mm over stainless steel exhaust valves
*MTC Billet slider clutch basket
*MTC inner billet hub
*MTC 2 stage lockup
*Billet clutch cover
*New bearings throughout motor
*RCC 13mm head studs
*.080 base spacer

Tranny
*R&D transmission with heavy duty output shaft, nitrous drum backcut, circlip mod, 1st-6th backcut

What was your cost on the motor??

 

[BA BUSA]

Send it to Gary...NOT

 

[Destin07]

What was your cost on the motor??

It was built by cooper performance and i bought some of the parts before i took them the motor. I know it was $4700 total and $1300 of that was the Tranny from R&D. I would have to go back and look at at but i believe if you price out every little part its 7K+...I will have to find the bill over the weekend. Its makes my stomach churn to think about it and especially how theses motors can just go pop. I priced out a ton of places and i think the labor was only $250 more at Coopers then other places. Given Jerrys background in racing and motor building expierence i thought it was a good choice. Not saying that no one else builds good motors but he was within driving distance and does ALOT of business and he is not even on the forums really. I know he does all NLR's motors and does a ton of exceptional head work for shops

 

[GPW]

It was built by cooper performance and i bought some of the parts before i took them the motor. I know it was $4700 total and $1300 of that was the Tranny from R&D. I would have to go back and look at at but i believe if you price out every little part its 7K+...I will have to find the bill over the weekend. Its makes my stomach churn to think about it and especially how theses motors can just go pop. I priced out a ton of places and i think the labor was only $250 more at Coopers then other places. Given Jerrys background in racing and motor building expierence i thought it was a good choice. Not saying that no one else builds good motors but he was within driving distance and does ALOT of business and he is not even on the forums really. I know he does all NLR's motors and does a ton of exceptional head work for shops

I was thinking in the 7K range and wondered if you built it yourself. Sounds like you got a good deal from a good guy.

 

[Destin07]

I was thinking in the 7K range and wondered if you built it yourself. Sounds like you got a good deal from a good guy.

yeah like i said the bill was i think $4700 and then you add in the $900 for rods, $460 for pistons, $450 mtc basket, $430mtc lockup, your billet clutch cover $380, then your APE cam chain setup $290....all starts adding up so i guess total motor including all that your in the 7500-8000 range or a tad over. Lots of stuff adds up in the motor you don't think about...$250+for bearings...all the special pistons scuffing, ect...Jerry doesn't just throw the motor together, after looking at the labor check list it shows he takes his time and does alot of extra stuff i never would have thought about while building the motor. Yeah so far its help up to 40lb boost and runs awesome

 

[GPW]

yeah like i said the bill was i think $4700 and then you add in the $900 for rods, $460 for pistons, $450 mtc basket, $430mtc lockup, your billet clutch cover $380, then your APE cam chain setup $290....all starts adding up so i guess total motor including all that your in the 7500-8000 range or a tad over. Lots of stuff adds up in the motor you don't think about...$250+for bearings...all the special pistons scuffing, ect...Jerry doesn't just throw the motor together, after looking at the labor check list it shows he takes his time and does alot of extra stuff i never would have thought about while building the motor. Yeah so far its help up to 40lb boost and runs awesome

 

[cdhoroho]

a good motor can be built for around 4k in parts plus labor
add another 1k or so in parts and it would be a real nice setup

but at the same time i would look into adding a secondary fueling system as the fueling is the biggest downfall on a turbo system

 

[gsxr907]

thanks this is helping me!!!1

 

[suzuki4life]

but at the same time i would look into adding a secondary fueling system as the fueling is the biggest downfall on a turbo system

wow this sounds familiar

refer to post #5



under 300 rwhp, the busa motor is fairly bullet proof in near stock form.

Control your boost via fuel and boost control (ie: good gate, tune and controller)

If you plan to run over 7 psi look into a good supply of race gas, water injection OR intercooling.

If you plan to exceed 8 psi, you need a spacer plate to bring CR down to ballpark 9:1, adjustable cams sprockets and probably upgraded clutch springs and sprocket cover.

If you plan to exceed 310 hp, you need rods.

If you plan to exceed 370+ hp, you need pistons.

Your trans issues are related to what you are doing with your bikes.

I've ran 400+ rwhp on stock baskets and trans. without issues.

My advice at this point with all of the spend spend spend bad info I am reading, is to move your info gathering to suzukihayabusa.org. They have a much more turbo oriented section there.

 

[Destin07]

wow this sounds familiar

refer to post #5



under 300 rwhp, the busa motor is fairly bullet proof in near stock form.

Control your boost via fuel and boost control (ie: good gate, tune and controller)

If you plan to run over 7 psi look into a good supply of race gas, water injection OR intercooling.

If you plan to exceed 8 psi, you need a spacer plate to bring CR down to ballpark 9:1, adjustable cams sprockets and probably upgraded clutch springs and sprocket cover.

If you plan to exceed 310 hp, you need rods.

If you plan to exceed 370+ hp, you need pistons.

Your trans issues are related to what you are doing with your bikes.

I've ran 400+ rwhp on stock baskets and trans. without issues.

My advice at this point with all of the spend spend spend bad info I am reading, is to move your info gathering to suzukihayabusa.org. They have a much more turbo oriented section there.

There is not alot of spend spend spend bad info here. Its pretty much a different couple of guys giving info to this guy about his question
*I seem to throw an extra part or two for added security
*You seem to pretty much run the stock parts to their highest thresh holds, so far that seems to have gotten you by just fine. On the other hand, ive seen rods go at 280HP and clutch baskets break apart in the 300's, and personally had a 2nd gear problems on a bike that had never been launched.

1. Of course you tranny issues are related to what type of riding you are doing. Even street riding with no launching a stock busa tranny is going to trash 2nd eventually...much less with a turbo
2. Anybody running 300Hp on a daily basis that actually rides there bike hard is going to junk the rods and thats a fact... its just a matter of time
3. I don't agree with the pistons but I would go as far as saying that anybody bike that is always running pump gas in a turbo should stay with stock pistons due to the power level
4. All your info is good i just take a different level of thinking and would prefer to build my motor first instead of the stock one coming apart and then having to build it. Thats not to say a built motor can't break either.

If you go to suzukihayabusa.org they are going to tell this guy basically the same stuff we have been. "lower grade rods, base spacer, head studs, tranny, adjustable cam sprockets, clutch springs....all when around the 300HP mark for safety"

 

[turbobusa2000]

Just thought I would share what I've done to my motor.

Crower Rods (standard bolts good for 400hp according to Crower)
JE +2mm turbo pistons, pistons have skirt and crown coatings
.080 spacer
APE crank and head studs
APE valve springs
APE adjustable cam sprockets 105/105
Cooper Performance valve job (stock diameter) and surface machining
Block machining by Millenium tech
Cometic MLS head gasket
Heavy clutch springs

I assembled the motor myself to save on labor costs. I got a lot of help from various places. My bike has a water to air intercooler and secondary injectors so that adds a little to the reliability. I made 300hp and 200ft/lbs or tq last fall with 15psi and a bad clutch. Not sure what I paid for all of that, I'd have to look.

 

[Destin07]

Just thought I would share what I've done to my motor.

Crower Rods (standard bolts good for 400hp according to Crower)
JE +2mm turbo pistons, pistons have skirt and crown coatings
.080 spacer
APE crank and head studs
APE valve springs
APE adjustable cam sprockets 105/105
Cooper Performance valve job (stock diameter) and surface machining
Block machining by Millenium tech
Cometic MLS head gasket
Heavy clutch springs

I assembled the motor myself to save on labor costs. I got a lot of help from various places. My bike has a water to air intercooler and secondary injectors so that adds a little to the reliability. I made 300hp and 200ft/lbs or tq last fall with 15psi and a bad clutch. Not sure what I paid for all of that, I'd have to look.

I've seen your thread on turbobikes.org its a nice build. That seems like a sensible cost effective build for your power levels and even up to 400HP

 

[BATTMAN]

There is always a difference of opinions. I know a guy on the boards that has a hahn kit and he's running just over 300hp with it. He beats on it at the track all the time. He runs mid 8's on it all day. He has no issues out of that kit at all. He runs at Maple Grove in PA. He build his motor in his garage. My uncle has a Mr Turbo kit on his busa and its really fast too. Both of these kits are looked down upon in the turbo world. Eventhough both of these guys did alot of the work themselves, both of these guys spent the money to get it tuned by a repetable turbo tuner. With a proper tune, any kit will be pretty efficient. The point in trying to make is dont always go by someones word. Talk to people that have gone through similar situations as you are going through now. If you have the money, I would over kill the engine for the piece of mind. Good luck with whatever route you decide to take.

 

[03HAYABOOSTA]

i had mine built for $4,500. i got a 1360cc overbore, o-ringed head, carrillo rods, je turbo pistons, 80lb valve springs, undercut and face cut trans, minor head work and prob a few more things i just cant think of right now. i run a stage 1 kit with about 8-9lbs of boost. i can ride my bike to the track, run consistent 8.6-8.7's all day long on pump gas and ride the bike back home while all the other guys load there bikes onto trailers! im making around 290hp thanks to the overbore and run 93octane all the time with no problems.

 

[03HAYABOOSTA]

oh and like battman said above.....take it to a pro who tunes turbo bikes!!! a turbo kit is a turbo kit no matter who makes it!! there all basically the same. the key is in the mapping

 

[warezdog]

Who did your build, cherry hill?

 

[03HAYABOOSTA]

who did my build? Powerhouse Cycles in Long Island NY

 

[gsxr907]

again all good information....