How would you build a turbo motor if you had $6k

[suzuki4life]

No...have you ever built a turbo Hayabusa engine ???

yep, have you?

 

[suzuki4life]

Comments like yours is EXACTLY why I'm going back to just building bikes,the net has all the correct answers and so do most of the users of it ever wonder why there is a dying breed of real mechanics,peek in the mirror..

sorry to post starter,oh and I won't respond again either gary,take care...

dying breed of mechanics?

Does the word "Silver" ring a bell Danny?

 

[gsxr907]

Well nice to see ideas....I helped put this bike together...I had no idea I would own it.
I see the hahn kit is not well liked on the net...and I now understand why.

I don't need to put 10 psi to it
I don't need to run 93
I don't need to spend 6K
I am very new to the turbo bike(s)
BUT I WOULD LIKE TO>>>

I think I will do the trans and motor some time this winter.....,..going to do some more reading/learning

 

[ogre]

for 6k get a low comp 1397 with some pnp'd heads, cams, springs, some larger fuel injectors, fuel pump, and find someone to help you reflash the ecu. with proper fuel and timing, there's no reason you wouldn't be able to run 10 psi safely.

:edit: if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself (or if you don't understand what i just said) you should probably spend your 6k at a shop and have a slightly milder build done.

 

[cdhoroho]

id stay away from the 1397
at most id only go no bigger then a 1363 or a 1344 (gen 2 stroker)
but its all in builder preference
im fine with stock bore and mines a prostreet build and i can make as much power as any other setup out there with my build

 

[suzuki4life]

for 6k get a low comp 1397 with some pnp'd heads, cams, springs, some larger fuel injectors, fuel pump, and find someone to help you reflash the ecu. with proper fuel and timing, there's no reason you wouldn't be able to run 10 psi safely.

:edit: if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself (or if you don't understand what i just said) you should probably spend your 6k at a shop and have a slightly milder build done.

you missed $800-1000 rods and your ecu with a programmer MIGHT handle the new fuel requirements with s2000 injectors...might.


Then his gate will leak and creep...and boom.

 

[Destin07]

and btw....regardless of what is in the motor....you won't run 10 psi on 93 octane all day and hold an engine together

Are you saying at 10LB on 93 pump these motors wont last?

To the original thread starter:
If i was planning on running 10lb or around that I would do the following mods
*Crower "lower psi bolts" I think they are good to 400HP
*studs and spacer
*adjustable cam sprockets
*valve springs
*have the tranny backcut
*new bearings
I may have not remembered a thing or 2 but i believe thats a pretty safe list. If you do alot of drag racing then i would advise you to get a heavy duty output shaft while your tranny is being done and maybe even a billet clutch basket. An A/A intercooler would also be VERY useful in this build. For 6K i believe you could get this done quite easily, it would save you $500 to take the motor out yourself. I have a friend running an RCC stage 2 with this exact setup and he usually keeps his boost between 10-14lb on 93 octane. Seems to be running great after 17,000 miles. I just finished my turbo build a few months back and did just about everything you could do to a motor. If your HP levels were going to be around 250HP I would feel safe telling you studs and a spacer and tranny work. When you get close or up to 300Hp its just not worth chancing it to me or at least thats the way i feel. I would rather have a little bit of overkill than not enough. Then again this is an engine and all parts can fail. Your engine build and tune are critical

 

[gsxr907]

Are you saying at 10LB on 93 pump these motors wont last?

To the original thread starter:
If i was planning on running 10lb or around that I would do the following mods
*Crower "lower psi bolts" I think they are good to 400HP
*studs and spacer
*adjustable cam sprockets
*valve springs
*have the tranny backcut
*new bearings
I may have not remembered a thing or 2 but i believe thats a pretty safe list. If you do alot of drag racing then i would advise you to get a heavy duty output shaft while your tranny is being done and maybe even a billet clutch basket. An A/A intercooler would also be VERY useful in this build. For 6K i believe you could get this done quite easily, it would save you $500 to take the motor out yourself. I have a friend running an RCC stage 2 with this exact setup and he usually keeps his boost between 10-14lb on 93 octane. Seems to be running great after 17,000 miles. I just finished my turbo build a few months back and did just about everything you could do to a motor. If your HP levels were going to be around 250HP I would feel safe telling you studs and a spacer and tranny work. When you get close or up to 300Hp its just not worth chancing it to me or at least thats the way i feel. I would rather have a little bit of overkill than not enough. Then again this is an engine and all parts can fail. Your engine build and tune are critical


Yes this is what I was looking for...ideas...

 

[suzuki4life]

Are you saying at 10LB on 93 pump these motors wont last?

To the original thread starter:
If i was planning on running 10lb or around that I would do the following mods

on a stage one non intercooled....yes it will not last

 

[suzuki4life]

And for reference...the mcxpress kit came out in 2000..the 16t kit

intercooled and set for 12-14 psi...

and yes you could run a good 93 octane through it.


you added a spacer, a single cam sprocket and heavy clutch springs....


no studs, no rods, nothing that was not supplied was not needed.....


these kits ranged in the beginning to using true piggyback injectors with no controller to be one of the first to have secondary controllers


the stuff available today are copies of these kits...


yes they slowly changed the appearance....and added newer components but even the intercoolers are still copies of the mcxpress or directly from the source.

 

[suzuki4life]

MCXpress, supreme of the extreme http://www.mcx.se

 

[Destin07]

on a stage one non intercooled....yes it will not last

oh okay i figured you were referring to a setup without an intercooler and yes i agree. A non intercooled bike running 10lb is not a good idea. You might be able to slip in some quick burst if you had a PERFECT tune but def no extended throttle and you would tear something up pretty soon anyway.

To the thread stater
Just a thought but if you were not going to use the MCXpress A/A unit and you were only going to run 10lb max then i would recommend water injection.

 

[GPW]

Are you saying at 10LB on 93 pump these motors wont last?

To the original thread starter:
If i was planning on running 10lb or around that I would do the following mods
*Crower "lower psi bolts" I think they are good to 400HP
*studs and spacer
*adjustable cam sprockets
*valve springs
*have the tranny backcut
*new bearings
I may have not remembered a thing or 2 but i believe thats a pretty safe list. If you do alot of drag racing then i would advise you to get a heavy duty output shaft while your tranny is being done and maybe even a billet clutch basket. An A/A intercooler would also be VERY useful in this build. For 6K i believe you could get this done quite easily, it would save you $500 to take the motor out yourself. I have a friend running an RCC stage 2 with this exact setup and he usually keeps his boost between 10-14lb on 93 octane. Seems to be running great after 17,000 miles. I just finished my turbo build a few months back and did just about everything you could do to a motor. If your HP levels were going to be around 250HP I would feel safe telling you studs and a spacer and tranny work. When you get close or up to 300Hp its just not worth chancing it to me or at least thats the way i feel. I would rather have a little bit of overkill than not enough. Then again this is an engine and all parts can fail. Your engine build and tune are critical

I built a 2006 Hayabusa street bike RCC Stage One running with 13 psi with head studs, .080 spacer, HD valve springs, stock injectors, PCIII with ignition module and three bar map sensor with hub, stock pistons, mild hand porting of the head, stock head gasket using a 2 oz to 1 gallon ratio of Maxima Octane booster (approximately 8 points higher) all the time. The bike has a 240 kit and the entire package has been living well for over a year now without any issue, 8,000 miles. Without the studs and only 6 psi on the spring the bike developed head lift and blew a gasket.

Bike also has a AEM True Boost controller to make the power delivery smoother. The tune is fat up top for the wide open blast. No issues at all. The tune is key...........not a best guess actual data. Motor set-up and tune both done by me.

We did turn the boost up to 19 psi for a pull or two and the bike made 293 HP pretty easy, then turned it back down to a 270 ish number.

 

[Destin07]

I built a 2006 Hayabusa street bike RCC Stage One running with 13 psi with head studs, .080 spacer, HD valve springs, stock injectors, PCIII with ignition module and three bar map sensor with hub, stock pistons, mild hand porting of the head, stock head gasket using a 2 oz to 1 gallon ratio of Maxima Octane booster (approximately 8 points higher) all the time. The bike has a 240 kit and the entire package has been living well for over a year now without any issue, 8,000 miles. Without the studs and only 6 psi on the spring the bike developed head lift and blew a gasket.

Bike also has a AEM True Boost controller to make the power delivery smoother. The tune is fat up top for the wide open blast. No issues at all. The tune is key...........not a best guess actual data. Motor set-up and tune both done by me.

We did turn the boost up to 19 psi for a pull or two and the bike made 293 HP pretty easy, then turned it back down to a 270 ish number.

thats a great looking bike. I don't doubt for one second that you can accomplish big HP on a busa with just a spacer and studs...my problem is that thats not out on the street beating on it daily. Anytime I hear of someone wanting to approach 275HP I would recommend rods to be on the safe side. I'm sure stock rods will handle countless 300HP pulls but eventually something is going to give as I'm sure you know. Like said earlier the tranny would be a must also, its not if its a when situation considering the tranny needing back cutting. I also would never want to run over 7-8lb with an FMU but i know Richards FMU's don't have much trouble but secondaries sure would help out. I believe stock pistons have been tested to 450HP and even stock clutch baskets and hubs can handle huge HP but then again they have failed at 300HP quite easily also. Do you flash the ECU's? I almost went with the PC and ignition module setup but i have personally witnessed bikes on the dyno not respond at all when the ignition module was changed and then i have seen them work also. To me it was hit and miss with that product so i went with the ECU reflashing software and applied it during my dyno tune. Thats cool to see a turbo with a 240 as mine also has one. nice build you did

 

[GPW]

thats a great looking bike. I don't doubt for one second that you can accomplish big HP on a busa with just a spacer and studs...my problem is that thats not out on the street beating on it daily. Anytime I hear of someone wanting to approach 275HP I would recommend rods to be on the safe side. I'm sure stock rods will handle countless 300HP pulls but eventually something is going to give as I'm sure you know. Like said earlier the tranny would be a must also, its not if its a when situation considering the tranny needing back cutting. I also would never want to run over 7-8lb with an FMU but i know Richards FMU's don't have much trouble but secondaries sure would help out. I believe stock pistons have been tested to 450HP and even stock clutch baskets and hubs can handle huge HP but then again they have failed at 300HP quite easily also. Do you flash the ECU's? I almost went with the PC and ignition module setup but i have personally witnessed bikes on the dyno not respond at all when the ignition module was changed and then i have seen them work also. To me it was hit and miss with that product so i went with the ECU reflashing software and applied it during my dyno tune. Thats cool to see a turbo with a 240 as mine also has one. nice build you did

This system works very well. Rods, fluted and balanced crank, lower case studs and turbo pistons are the best way go, not everyone has that financial footing.

Many of my customers actually allow me to R&D new methods and I stand behind my thoughts if they go wrong. If I find something that wroks from actual hands on testing I use it until I find out otherwise. I take what I read on the web lightly until tested. The owner rides with a pack of (squids) and he beats on this bike often. With that 240 tire and super heavy wheel the wear and tear is even more pro-nounced. One year and still counting....we also use Mobil One Racing 4T for oil.... Just the facts.

 

[Destin07]

This system works very well. Rods, fluted and balanced crank, lower case studs and turbo pistons are the best way go, not everyone has that financial footing.

Many of my customers actually allow me to R&D new methods and I stand behind my thoughts if they go wrong. If I find something that wroks from actual hands on testing I use it until I find out otherwise. I take what I read on the web lightly until tested. The owner rides with a pack of (squids) and he beats on this bike often. With that 240 tire and super heavy wheel the wear and tear is even more pro-nounced. One year and still counting....we also use Mobil One Racing 4T for oil.... Just the facts.

yeah i hear you on the internet info for sure. Only reason i went with a heavy build is because i was making big power and as you know any weakness will show its face fairly quick. My bike is making 350-380HP on the pump gas tune so i couldn't afford to leave something out. As far as the rods go I just don't see the point in not putting some lower grade aftermarket rods in when you have the motor down and especially if you are running 275+Hp because many have been known to go around that area. Man you are so right about those 240 tires being heavy LOL....those RC components are RIDICULOUS how heavy they are. I would urge anybody who looks into a 240 wheel setup to go with the CZ if they are concerned about performance. As for the oil i used to run 10-40 castrol synthetic or whatever it was. Now in my turbo i'm just running regular castrol 20-50 from autozone but i change the oil and filter every 1K miles. RCC and my motorbuilder recommended this method to me. Its kinda funny because on my old N/A busa with a full exhaust, tune, PC and old 240 setup my bike made 160HP on a reputable dyno in some pretty HP killing weather. Keep up the good R&D work

 

[GPW]

yeah i hear you on the internet info for sure. Only reason i went with a heavy build is because i was making big power and as you know any weakness will show its face fairly quick. My bike is making 350-380HP on the pump gas tune so i couldn't afford to leave something out. As far as the rods go I just don't see the point in not putting some lower grade aftermarket rods in when you have the motor down and especially if you are running 275+Hp because many have been known to go around that area. Man you are so right about those 240 tires being heavy LOL....those RC components are RIDICULOUS how heavy they are. I would urge anybody who looks into a 240 wheel setup to go with the CZ if they are concerned about performance. As for the oil i used to run 10-40 castrol synthetic or whatever it was. Now in my turbo i'm just running regular castrol 20-50 from autozone but i change the oil and filter every 1K miles. RCC and my motorbuilder recommended this method to me. Its kinda funny because on my old N/A busa with a full exhaust, tune, PC and old 240 setup my bike made 160HP on a reputable dyno in some pretty HP killing weather. Keep up the good R&D work

thanks and you certainly did it right the first itme..

 

[Destin07]

thanks and you certainly did it right the first itme..

thats not what my wallet was saying....it was like you terrible ********* piece of **** you should be more responsible and landscape your yard and get an engagement ring

 

[GPW]

thats not what my wallet was saying....it was like you terrible ********* piece of **** you should be more responsible and landscape your yard and get an engagement ring

 

[warezdog]

Just wondering if you had a turbo 10psi wanted to run safe on 93 all day long, what would you do and who would you recommend? Street bike...
6,000 to spend???
I have a stock motor with turbo pistons...and a hahn stage 1

I would call Richard at RCC and give him my bike, my money, and my wishlist and he would tell me when to pick it up and I would be happy in the end! Or since I'm closer to Greg have him do it!