HELP...This has stumped 2 dealers, and I am bikele

igowfo

Registered
Man, do I need some help. I am hoping someone on the forum has run across this problem or has heard of it before. This problem has totally stumped 2 Suzuki dealers so far, and they have thrown up their hands over the problem.
My 2003 Hayabusa wont start, is trying to fire out of sequence, and is randomly sputtering.

So far, here is what has gone on. Jim Palmers, the largest Suzuki dealer in Daytona Beach, worked on the bike for 14 hours, all to no avail. The bike has been in a shop in Houston, Texas for two weeks, with no progress in sight. Who ever can solve this problem will be a Super Hero in my book and to the other mechanics who have worked on the bike so far.

Here is the history of the bike, the problem, and the attempted fixes. I bought the modified 2003 Busa 8 months before the problem began. The bike ran fine before I began to clean and dress it up for Bikeweek. Yes, I admit, I broke it.

Modifications to the bike are as follows.
1397â€￾ bore; Yoshimura cams; valves and springs; JE pistons; Heads ported and polished; Revtech commander; new lighting on the front and back; additional fan, misc chrome and dress ups.

The problem with the bike is:
The bike will try to start, but it is firing out of sequence, and will only pop and sputter randomly. Fuel delivery seems to be fine.

Here is what I did just previous to the problem. All the plastic was removed so I could deep clean the bike. I thought I may have been a little to aggressive with the brushes, cleaner and water, so I went back and sprayed wd-40 in all of the connections and rechecked the wiring as best I could. Some of the wiring done by the previous owner was not tight so I tried to clean it up. New plugs were installed and the K&N was cleaned. I replaced gaskets on the exhaust emission tubes to clear up an exhaust leak.

I replaced the Stator cover with a CHROMED cover at the same time, and this is where I think the problem lies. I worked with the mechanic at the Daytona shop, and when we got around to taking the stator cover off, we found the sensor contact pick up was slightly loose. The threads had some chrome down in them and it allowed the contact to moved a little back and forth. I did not catch this when I switched covers. We tapped out the threads and reinstalled. Before we took the stator cover off, the bike would try to start and would sputter. After reinstalling the stator cover with the contact tightened , the bike would not try to start or sputter at all. The voltage tested fine, so the mechanic moved on. A new ecu unit was plugged in from a 2005 Busa, the power commander disconnectd, plugs replaced, and a new cam sensor bought and replaced, and hours were poured into the bike.

When none of this worked, we pulled the cams out, as the mechanic thought they were off by one tooth, and he reset them. We did not change the degree of the cams. I protested the cam change as I know they did not jump a tooth, and the bike ran great before, but he was the master mechanic of the shop, so I took the back seat. We were getting codes that said the cam sensor was bad so the sensor was replaced, and all of the other sensors were checked out. After 14 hours of working on the bike, charging me for only 2 hours, they threw in the towel and gave the bike back.

While at the Daytona Track before the Aria 200, I talked to Derek, the top Technician for Suzuki. Explaining the problem to him, he said the air gap between stator contact pickup and the engine flywheel was critical, and if it is off, it will change the voltage and allow the sensors to give false readings. I bought another stator from a 2002 (I think), and compared it to the existing one. When the old stator sensor pick up was loose, you could see where it had barely scrapped the contact, so I replaced the stator. The Houston mechanic seems to think it is registering the proper voltage, high on one end, low on the other, but within tolerance, and now the bike is back to at least sputtering, but not starting. I am installing a different non chromed stator cover this week hoping it may have something to do with the problem. We are waiting for information from Yoshimura about the cam position, but I don’t think that was the problem to begin with.
If anyone has any ideas or cures, or can lead me to someone who might, please help.
I can be contacted at bill@theroofco.com
 
Private Message johnnycheese on this site ASAP. I'm sure he can get you ridin' again... or at least get you pointed in the right direction.
 
Private Message johnnycheese on this site ASAP. I'm sure he can get you ridin' again... or at least get you pointed in the right direction.
Thanks.

Desperate in Houston
Don't know how close you are to Pflugerville, but if I remember correctly that's where Cheese's shop is. Try calling info for his number. I used to have it on a decal but can't find where I put it. JC is the man on busas.
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Houston is only about 1.5 hours away from Pflugerville. Pflugerville is on the outskirts of Austin. My sister lives there. I'm interested to hear who gets this problem solved and what the root cause was.
 
Houston is only about 1.5 hours away from Pflugerville. Pflugerville is on the outskirts of Austin. My sister lives there. I'm interested to hear who gets this problem solved and what the root cause was.
Definitely worth the drive then... I'd be enroute to JC's place pronto... I'd almost bet a payheck that he can get it up and running in short order.
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Yeah, what Ol' Bullet said. Johnnycheese is definitely DA MAN!! I bring my bike all the way from Lake Charles (approx. 4hrs) to have it tuned and mapped. That's where my confidence level is with him.

BTW, did you have your mechanic check the fuel injectors?
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A buddy of mine had the exact same problem a few weeks back while in Myrtle Beach. Come to find out 2 of his injectors were bad. They were replaced and the bike ran like a dream again. Check the injectors first just in case... Good Luck!!
 
Why not talk to the person you bought the bike from, or whoever did the initial mods? They should be able to tell you what was changed from stock.
 
Why not talk to the person you bought the bike from, or whoever did the initial mods?  They should be able to tell you  what was changed from stock.
I know what mods were made and I have the reciepts ($10k plus), and the bike screamed until I got it  ready for Daytona. I am sure that it has to be in the stator, pick up or the magnet at the end of the crank. Alhough the voltage seems correct, something is not right. I just don't want to change it all and find out I ran down a rabbit hole.

Does anyone know if the stator is interchangable between years?



<!--EDIT|igowfo
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First...make sure the plug wires are on the right plugs.

WD-40 is NOT contact cleaner. Get some actual "electrical part cleaner" and clean all of the wiring you messed with. After cleaning the connectors...apply a small amount of "Dialectric" grease to them...this is NON-conductive so it will not short anything out.

I think you let the mechanic go to far by pulling the cams. If it was running prior to your mods, and "your" mods didn't include internal engine work, then he had no business inside the engine.

Good Luck to you...hope you get it worked out.
 
Assuming the plug wires are on correctly, the next thing I think I'd check is the valve timing. Was the head removed? Is it possible the cam was installed incorrectly or the cam chain slipped?
 
Why double post this to two different forums? It was addressed in the busa problems forum...
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Check the cam timing and make sure the cam sprockets have not slipped..They are just pressed on the new cams, no bolts...
 
First...make sure the plug wires are on the right plugs.

WD-40 is NOT contact cleaner. Get some actual "electrical part cleaner" and clean all of the wiring you messed with. After cleaning the connectors...apply a small amount of "Dialectric" grease to them...this is NON-conductive so it will not short anything out.

I think you let the mechanic go to far by pulling the cams. If it was running prior to your mods, and "your" mods didn't include internal engine work, then he had no business inside the engine.

Good Luck to you...hope you get it worked out.
Yeah... This all falls apart when a mechanic starts to pull cams, on a previously healthy motor....


Doesn't add up...
 
No worries, I merged em' and left it in General... Sounds liek you've been suffering with something here, hopefully you can get some useful information....
 
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