help!!!Gear Box Not down shifting

Kosman called me back. YES there should be the STOCK washer behind the OSD sprocket just like a stock sprocket!
The GenI and GenII sprocket is the same, But the GenI and GenII outputsaft it diff offset itself.
Get the washer! "They said with out the washer you can drawdown the sprocket nut with impact hammer till tight....and the sprocket still will NOT be tight."
The OSD offset sprocket is $150 + shipping...told them you will be calling.
They dont know anything about Fullthrottle motorsports, Kosman has a deal with RoaringToyz to provide the OSD kit and RT sell the full kit with 330. Fullthrottle must get the kits from RT.
 
Personally I'd just be handing the whole thing back to the installer as it's a pretty obvious stuff up on their part given that parts have been left out on the OSD install.
The sprocket is certianly the minor thing here .................. as don't even think of putting it back together with the shaft damage thats evident for it will only chop out again.
 
:beerchug:
Like I said in the PM. Kosman MAKES the OSD section, so always feel free to call them with questions on it. They love to hear feedback and always willing to help with info!

Ill take you up on BEERs if you ever come to the states!
 
Anyone know if this problem has been happening on 2016? Got into an accident today when the bike lurched after not shifting from 2 to 1 while coming to a stop. It's been happening a lot while upshifting from 5 to 6 as well.
 
Anyone know if this problem has been happening on 2016? Got into an accident today when the bike lurched after not shifting from 2 to 1 while coming to a stop. It's been happening a lot while upshifting from 5 to 6 as well.

It seems common on many new gen2's for the 1st-2nd, and 5th-6th shifts to be harder than the other gear shifts for a while.
There is a false neutral between 5th/6th also. You have to shift like you mean it. Not try and break the shifter hard, but not lazily either.
It will break in and become smoother.
Sometimes they don't like to go into 1st, or out of 1st or 2nd and back into neutral when stopped, or almost stopped.
If it doesn't, just slightly release the clutch and pull it back in. It should go in or out of neutral easily then.

Hope the accident didn't damage you or the bike.
But, if it "lurched" forward in 2nd and caused an accident, you are probably fortunate it didn't go into 1st.
Because it likely would have jumped forward much quicker and more agressively. It also would've stalled to a stop much more abruptly after.

I would make sure the clutch lever is adjusted to engage/disengage at a distance away from the bar that best suites your comfort level. Personally, I prefer the clutch to engage far away from the bar. I only use 1 or 2 fingers on the brake and clutch, while keeping the others on the bars. Also engaging/disengaging far enough away not to crush my fingers when the levers are pulled.
That way, I still have control and grip of the bars, if need be.
I'de adjust the levers up/down and left/right to what feels best to you too, if you haven't already.
Little adjustments can make a big difference in personal comfort. And, the more comfortable you are, the more potential control you will have.
 
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