Hayabusa Lowering
- Thread starter rosieg60
- Start date
First,
aboard!
Not sure on the handling as I will be lowering mine this winter. However, lowering the front is usually accomplished by installing risers on the the stock triple clamp or by replacing the stock triple with one that allows for lowering. Once you have the clearance for the forks, it's just a matter of loosening some bolts and sliding the forks up the clamps... Make sure you raise each fork the same amount....
Oh, one last - we love pics here. Please post up some of your scoot!
Not sure on the handling as I will be lowering mine this winter. However, lowering the front is usually accomplished by installing risers on the the stock triple clamp or by replacing the stock triple with one that allows for lowering. Once you have the clearance for the forks, it's just a matter of loosening some bolts and sliding the forks up the clamps... Make sure you raise each fork the same amount....
Oh, one last - we love pics here. Please post up some of your scoot!
I think you are referring to a strap. Strapping the front will compress the forks.
Using a lowering triple or risers will allow the entire fork assembly to be moved upward into the tree. This will lower the front end, but will not affect the travel of the forks.
BTW - straps are not recommended for everyday street riding - just the track.
Okay I got it now, yes the straps compress the forks reducing/eliminating the fork expansion during a hard lauch in drag racing. this method of lowering is not recomended for street use.
Risers and Lowering Clamps move the frame down the forks not causing "compressing" but reducing the ground clearance. Cobined with dog bones in the rear will lower the bike in the rear.
Most "twistie" riders prefer a 1" lift in the rear to increase manuverability.
Risers and Lowering Clamps move the frame down the forks not causing "compressing" but reducing the ground clearance. Cobined with dog bones in the rear will lower the bike in the rear.
Most "twistie" riders prefer a 1" lift in the rear to increase manuverability.
So I have been 2 and 3 inches running twin Yosh and I have scrapped parts.
Yes I do have chicken stips, I wear them with pride.
Its a scarey feeling thats why I do not recommend anything lower than a 1 inch drop for carving a "city" street.
I say city because the roads are smoother in rural areas and there is a lower chance of a bump, pothole, or whatever.
Yes I do have chicken stips, I wear them with pride.
Its a scarey feeling thats why I do not recommend anything lower than a 1 inch drop for carving a "city" street.
I say city because the roads are smoother in rural areas and there is a lower chance of a bump, pothole, or whatever.
I leave the front unstrapped and the lowering links in the # 2 position (#3 will drag the belly pan on just about everything). Used to take the lowering links off for normal rides...don't anymore - handles fine for normal spirited riding...if your into heavy canyon carving may not be best for you.
tdcfrank
Banned
Here is a couple pictures of mine. It is lowered 1 1/2" up front and 2" in the rear.
These are the spacers I used to lower the front.
Here are the directions to lower the front when installing the spacers. I hope this helps you out.
1999-2006 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 1-1/4†Handle Bar Riser Installation And Lowering Instructions
Handle Bar Riser Installation:
1. Place a towel or some sort of protective mat over your gas tank before installation process.
2. Remove (4) plastic chrome cap’s covering the socket head cap screws holding down the triple tree crown. Use a small straight screw driver to pry between the socket head cap screw and plastic cap.
3. Remove the (4) socket head cap screws holding down the triple tree crown. You will need an 8mm allen wrench and a 14mm wrench.
4. Remove the triple tree crown. This is a good time to pull any slack out of the cables.
5. Remove the top (4) factory vibration isolators. Replace them with the 1-1/4†Handle Bar Risers. Be sure to retain the factory spacer steel bushing between the factory vibration isolators and the new vibration isolators.
6. Place the triple tree crown back over the new Handle bar risers.
7. Install the new longer socket head cap screws, washers, and locking nuts. Check cable tensions. A 15 mm wrench will be needed for the new locking nuts. 1Torque to 25 ft/lbs*.
8. Place (4) plastic chrome caps over the socket head cap screws.
Lowering Instructions:
1. Remove plastic shield under the nose of your Hayabusa. You will need to press in the centers of the (6) plastic rivets before they can be removed.
2. Loosen, do not remove, all (4) hex head cap screws on the fork tube brace to the point they can be turned out by hand. Then turn tight them by hand and give them each a ¼ turn with the wrench. You will need a 12mm wrench.
3. Slowly loosen, do not remove, the (2) socket head cap screws on the side of the triple tree clamp. You will need a 6mm allen wrench. Be sure there is some clamp pressure on triple tree clamp and fork tube brace. Failure to provide sufficient clamp pressure will cause front of your Hayabusa to drop quickly. With the correct amount of clamp pressure you will need to apply a small force to slide fork tubes through the triple tree and fork tube brace clamps.
4. Slide the fork tubes through the triple tree and fork tube brace clamps until they contact the triple tree crown. Once the fork tubes have come in contact with the triple tree crown, depress the fork tubes several times to seat the fork tubes with the triple tree crown.
5. Tighten the (2) socket head cap screws on the triple tree clamp. Depress the fork tubes several times to seat the fork tubes in the triple tree clamp. 1Then torque to 20 ft/lbs*.
6. Tighten the (4) hex head cap screws. Depress the fork tubes several times to seat the fork tubes in the fork tube brace. 1Then torque to 20 ft/lbs*.
7. Replace plastic under nose. Plastic rivets are installed by pushing centers out. Then place rivet body into holes and push center back into rivet.
These are the spacers I used to lower the front.
Here are the directions to lower the front when installing the spacers. I hope this helps you out.
1999-2006 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 1-1/4†Handle Bar Riser Installation And Lowering Instructions
Handle Bar Riser Installation:
1. Place a towel or some sort of protective mat over your gas tank before installation process.
2. Remove (4) plastic chrome cap’s covering the socket head cap screws holding down the triple tree crown. Use a small straight screw driver to pry between the socket head cap screw and plastic cap.
3. Remove the (4) socket head cap screws holding down the triple tree crown. You will need an 8mm allen wrench and a 14mm wrench.
4. Remove the triple tree crown. This is a good time to pull any slack out of the cables.
5. Remove the top (4) factory vibration isolators. Replace them with the 1-1/4†Handle Bar Risers. Be sure to retain the factory spacer steel bushing between the factory vibration isolators and the new vibration isolators.
6. Place the triple tree crown back over the new Handle bar risers.
7. Install the new longer socket head cap screws, washers, and locking nuts. Check cable tensions. A 15 mm wrench will be needed for the new locking nuts. 1Torque to 25 ft/lbs*.
8. Place (4) plastic chrome caps over the socket head cap screws.
Lowering Instructions:
1. Remove plastic shield under the nose of your Hayabusa. You will need to press in the centers of the (6) plastic rivets before they can be removed.
2. Loosen, do not remove, all (4) hex head cap screws on the fork tube brace to the point they can be turned out by hand. Then turn tight them by hand and give them each a ¼ turn with the wrench. You will need a 12mm wrench.
3. Slowly loosen, do not remove, the (2) socket head cap screws on the side of the triple tree clamp. You will need a 6mm allen wrench. Be sure there is some clamp pressure on triple tree clamp and fork tube brace. Failure to provide sufficient clamp pressure will cause front of your Hayabusa to drop quickly. With the correct amount of clamp pressure you will need to apply a small force to slide fork tubes through the triple tree and fork tube brace clamps.
4. Slide the fork tubes through the triple tree and fork tube brace clamps until they contact the triple tree crown. Once the fork tubes have come in contact with the triple tree crown, depress the fork tubes several times to seat the fork tubes with the triple tree crown.
5. Tighten the (2) socket head cap screws on the triple tree clamp. Depress the fork tubes several times to seat the fork tubes in the triple tree clamp. 1Then torque to 20 ft/lbs*.
6. Tighten the (4) hex head cap screws. Depress the fork tubes several times to seat the fork tubes in the fork tube brace. 1Then torque to 20 ft/lbs*.
7. Replace plastic under nose. Plastic rivets are installed by pushing centers out. Then place rivet body into holes and push center back into rivet.
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