HAS ANYONE SOLVED PROBLEM WITH HID & INSTRUMENT CL

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Haven't had an issue.

Check out the service manual the black wire appears to go to the negative side of the battery.
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(dbankhotbusa @ Jun. 02 2007,00:flamethrowing:) That's something to consider. I have a time delay relay wired to mine. The white wire is (+) AND BLK /WHTwire is (-). Is this correct?
You are correct and those same wires tie into the instruments etc. 12+ and -
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I have the same problem with my gas guage only.

I ruled out the stator, Battery, Wiring, and the last piece to the puzzle is the ballast.

I'll let you know when my new one arrives if the problem is solved.
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Heavybusa I would appreciate that, maybe we can find the common cause. I did the "CHARGING OUTPUT INSP" according to the SVC Manual, It say to rev bike to 5K TURN LIGHT ON and DIMMER SWITCH to high? I disregarded that info and just let the bike run at idle and did my voltage check. I could believe that it was putting out 15+ volts the highiest was 15.12, fluctuating that is never going below 15v. I'm gonna check my rectifier Sun. I'll post my results.
 
Do you have both balasts located on the same side?.... like on top of each other? I have heard of problems with that installation on some bikes. I have the same HID"S from the same source but I mounted my balasts apart, one on the left side, one on the right side. Not saying that is your problem but I've had no problems with my installation. I also have some pic's of my installation on this site. I think I put 'em under elecrtrical mods but you can do a search. Hope this helps
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Learjett

I have my ballast separated. Low beam on Left ram intake and high beam on RT ram intake. What I have noticed so far in my attempt to find the problem is that a good charged battery helps. I went as far as purchase a battery tender an use it when I'm not riding. But I still get the occasional sticking of my tech & fuel gauges, and I'll have to shut bike off and restart. I don't understand it.

The next time I have to take my front cover off I'm gonna try putting my original bulb back in. I wish I had another guage cluster to try. Mines has been modded by BLUEGAUGE. I installed both at the same time so and that's when I got this problem.
 
I have been experiencing the same prob on my 06 LE with HID kit recently installed..  Temp and fuel gauges flucuating badly..  Stock cluster with no mods..  Both ballasts on right side..  Any update on this topic??  Shielding needed??   Possible solution???
 
i have a bluegauge modded dash and low and high beam HID's and haven't had any problems...pic of how i installed the HID's

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I have Blue Gauges, Acumen Gear Indicator - and will be installing HID Hi/Low this weekend. I will let you know how it goes...
 
i had the same problem, but i put a switch on my hid.. but when i turned it on the gauges pegged out... so i took of the nose section and basically moved everything as far from the cluster as possible, the wires, ballast... not a problem since. i honestly think the current going throught the wires will effect the gauges.. just like the "radio noise" when you have rca's next to ground or power wire on a audio system.... and at my job a very smart engineer was doing some tuning to our flare and wires were running close to each other and it was giving us wrong readings, he noticed it, we moved them and no problems...
 
I've been running high and low beam HIDs for about 9 months now. Stock cluster with the balast mounted directly behind the gauge cluster. They are attached to the steel frame behind it. I've had zero issues with the gauges, but I do need to install a delay timer for the low beam. It will occassionally go out when I start the bike.
 
the draw on the battery is only about 3 amps once they warm up. less than the 5 amps or so the factory headlights draw.
 
i had the same problem, but i put a switch on my hid.. but when i turned it on the gauges pegged out... so i took of the nose section and basically moved everything as far from the cluster as possible, the wires, ballast... not a problem since. i honestly think the current going throught the wires will effect the gauges.. just like the "radio noise" when you have rca's next to ground or power wire on a audio system.... and at my job a very smart engineer was doing some tuning to our flare and wires were running close to each other and it was giving us wrong readings, he noticed it, we moved them and no problems...

twisted pair. take the appropriate + and - wires and twist them around each other, it will minimize radio noise. the current/pulses cancel each other out to a certain degree.
 
I just install mines today. I have HI and low beam HID and i have the blue gauges. I have no problems at all. All my gauges worked fine. One thing u should know. DONT connect ur gauges to the lights. Just go straight to the switch. Remember it doesnt matter where u connect them they r always on.
 
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