HAS ANYONE SOLVED PROBLEM WITH HID & INSTRUMENT CL

D

dbankhotbusa

Registered
Has anyone actually figured out the real issue with the needles pegging out. I can't narrow it down because I don't have another instrument panel that is not modded (BLUEGUAGE).  I have both my ballast separated from each other, low beam on left ram intake and high beam on RT ram tube.  I also replaced the battery with a new one.

Prior to my buying a new battery I used a friends battery that had been on a charger and was suspect to having it's own issues. I installed it, and WHOM!! problems fix'd. I had no more erratic needles pegging out. I had the battery in my bike for about four days.  I went to Indy last week and the following morning she wouldn't turn over, I got nothing out of the battery. I tried a couple of times, and nothing happened. I went to the stealership in Indianapolis purchased a new one. I ended up waiting a whole day-n-half because they forgot to put it on the charger. I finally get the battery installed, crank her up and no problems I thought until later that day I would get a pegged fuel guage.

Now in addition to the pegged fuel guage, my tech and temp guage are like stuck on zero and until I rev it up.  I guess what I can do, is have the new battery checked out and go from there. I hate that now everytime I start my bike, I have to restart to reset my gauge. It's annoying.  Any other ideals of what else it could be
sad.gif
 
sad.gif


sad.gif
 
What is the proper way of verifying that? You should be able to measure the voltage at the battery with the bike running. I'm not sure of the exact voltage I should get? at least 14.4
 
Per the manual. Engine running 5000 rpm headlight on High - It should read between 13.5 and 15.0v
 
Yeah, that's what I don't want to do! It's kinda looking like a battery problem. Last nite I used a friends battery that was on a charger and I had no issues except, I did have to restart once to reset my gauges. I'll be troubleshooting my electrical system this weekend if I get some time.
 
I'd pull the HID and see if that's the problem. You can leave everything in there, just disconnect the ballast from the bike and plug an OEM light back in there. If the problem goes away, perhaps you can check and see if you can get a different ballast from where you got the HID. Maybe there's some sort of electrical field interference or something with the gauges. Hard to say really, sounds strange. I guess you're not the only one though, after installing the HID.

I wonder if there is some problem with interference with blue gauges and HID. Has anyone else had this problem with stock guages?
 
I have seen posts where HID has caused interferance with BlueGuages - where did you mount the transformer for the guages?

Also, is it possible to swap out your regulator/rectifier (finned looking thing ont he back left of your bike, mounted to the subframe)? They don't go bad often, but they do go bad.

What else do you have hooked up to your battery? I ask, because if you have things hooked up direct without a switch or relay - you have a constant feed, and remember that you charging system isn't working your battery until around 4500 rpms... might be why you are having so many dead batteries...
 
The bbbbusa, I brought that question up before, about the Blueguage & HID and stock gauges. Nobody really gave any useful feedback about it. I did try it with just my OEM low beam and had no issues, but I was troubleshooting something else.

What I can tell ya from messing with this thing for the last month and a half, is a freshly charged battery seemed to cure it. But after a couple of days had issues with that battery.

If we can get people to post their experance using either BLUEGUAGE/HID or STOCK GUAGE/HID and see if their is a pattern with the erratic needles we can probably find a fix for this.
 
I have HID with stock gauges. Only had the erratic gauge problem 2 times within the first week or two of installation. The problem seems to have gone away......................hasn't done it in months....

I was thinking it was a shielding problem and the frequency is whacking out the guages. I was gong to try shielding tape on the HID boxes and output wires and the back of the gauge cluster to see if it would help.

rock.gif
 
Voltage is too low. When starting, the HIDs will use a lot of current, which is why you don't want them on when the engine is off or just warming up in idle.

Bump up your idle if necessary. If you don't have a headlight switch, get one. When the engine is on, make sure your voltage is in spec, as above.

While you're at it, check the contacts on your battery terminal, check the connectors going to the rectifier in the tail and the ones to the stator and main fuse. It's possible the ground terminal could be melted on one of these, meaning you're not getting any charging.
 
... actually, just pull your tail section off and check your rectifier connectors. Re-reading your post, I'm fairly certain you'll find the connector melted and not making contact... not that I'm speaking from experience or anything...
tounge.gif
 
I'm gonna try those methods you've mentioned. I know I need to adjust my ideal. It's at the point where it wants to cut off.
 
I had the problem when installed HID w/ Bluegauges.  Pegged Fuel, tach low or pegged at 0 till revving of engine.  But it was only when I had my high beam installed.  I pulled it off and move my low beam to the right side and moved my bluegauge switch to the left side.  All was better , so i am not sure if it was the high beam ballast, frequency problems,or low battery.

I have since removed that HID and installed the McCollough system.  At first the low beam was fine.  Installed the high beam and was doing the 10min burn in as stated in their paperwork and the high beam started strobing and cut off.  WTF?  Tried everything again and both lights flickered and went out. Dayum!!!!  Treid to start bike and rump....rump....nothing.  I drained the he11 out of my battery.  Been on a charger since.

I will know tomorrow if any problem still.
 
MC Mustang the only thing I have connected to my battery is my "I think is my pwr commander". I just went out and tested the charging output with engine running at 5K and I was getting between 14-15v. I also did a current leak check on the battery as per 1999-2000 svc manual. No leaks at all. I'm gonna check my rectifier and gen to make sure following the svc manual. I'll keep everyone posted.
 
One question i have for you, what HID kit do you have??
 
(dbankhotbusa @ Jun. 01 2007,19:24) Bosh. I purchased from BIG GEORGE "BUSAZILLA"
Click to expand...
Im running the same kit and have no issues, but however, one thing to make sure of,,, on the low beam, be sure that you have the positve and negitve wires plugged into corrent places. The light will work if its reversed! That might be one thing to check out!
 
That's something to consider. I have a time delay relay wired to mine. The white wire is (+) AND BLK /WHTwire is (-). Is this correct?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

twotonevert
One more battery question please.
Replies
1
Views
698
jdsbusa
jdsbusa
S
Whats the best battery and charger combo i can get?
2
Replies
21
Views
3,607
philofab
philofab
slime
Electrical Problem
Replies
4
Views
954
mike1180
mike1180
metalli445
Ballistic Battery
Replies
3
Views
1,717
c10
c10
Suijuris
SD HID light issues
2
Replies
24
Views
2,018
dadofthree
dadofthree
Back
Top