H.I.D.'s without the worry of clock reset

[jphilipson]

Your right its not overloading the wirings ability if it was the wire would go up in smoke (been there done that)

You let out the white smoke?

And for the sake of argument, what were your AMP and peak voltage readings when you tested? I'm a big enough man to admit when I'm wrong, but always up for an interesting debate/convo

Reading some stuff on car forums, it appears that your estimation is correct (at least in a lot of cases). Just seems strange to me as simply moving my stuff away from the gauges resolved my issue. Perhaps there are multiple unrelated issues with HIDs?

 

[card16969]

oh yea and didnt have 2 take bike apart 2 install just removed the gauges and inner fairing covers. not being a smarta$$ but just sounds like more than needed for a set of lights. in my opinion if you honestly feel you have 2 do all that and worry about eletrical gremlins or ur just not eletrically inclined, just leav it alone. u dont want an electrical headache. just my 2cents

i did it because i was tearing my bike apart anyways and being a mechanic i like doing things once and doing them right so i dont have problems later... thats my 2 cents

 

[card16969]

You let out the white smoke?

And for the sake of argument, what were your AMP and peak voltage readings when you tested? I'm a big enough man to admit when I'm wrong, but always up for an interesting debate/convo

Reading some stuff on car forums, it appears that your estimation is correct (at least in a lot of cases). Just seems strange to me as simply moving my stuff away from the gauges resolved my issue. Perhaps there are multiple unrelated issues with HIDs?

Yes i let out the magical white smoke... many of times in my car audio career lol ... accidents happen and most of the times it was other ppls installs from other shops that i was fixing or replacing. I havnt gone through and done any readings been too busy taking care of my grandma shes going down hill so the bikes at my shop and im home lol. But i did spend 2 years at motorcycle mechanics institute studying this stuff and ya know those old guys actualy knew what they were talking about HAHA who woulda thunk it lol. But yeah there could be multiple things but honestly i think yours was a connection some place that when you moved it corrected itself which you would be amazed how often that happens (not a connection you did but one from the factory). But glad it worked out for ya, main reason i wrote this up was to give people a way to do the install so you dont have to worry about having the issue instead of installing them having problems and then trying to fix the problem. I know there is lots of things i dont know and have found little tricks like this that people have posted in forums and wham ive avoided issues all together. I like the debate its fun because theres times i learn things i dont know and points of view i havnt seen.

 

[card16969]

You let out the white smoke?

And for the sake of argument, what were your AMP and peak voltage readings when you tested? I'm a big enough man to admit when I'm wrong, but always up for an interesting debate/convo

Reading some stuff on car forums, it appears that your estimation is correct (at least in a lot of cases). Just seems strange to me as simply moving my stuff away from the gauges resolved my issue. Perhaps there are multiple unrelated issues with HIDs?

Oh btw the whole E.M.P. comment i made was about you solving the issue by just moving it away from the ballasts... the ignitor should be shielded so if thats what caused it on yours then it would be the electric magnetic field causing the disruption and that would just be crazy haha

 

[jphilipson]

Boy, do I love the taste of Humble Pie - enjoying a big slice now.


Well, after many months since moving the ballasts/igniters away from the clocks thinking that was the problem, I had the dreaded clock reset again. Seems to happen after a really long ride. Voltage was reading healthy at the time. Switched on the high beam, and there it goes. So, I cede to you on this argument - seems to have to due with peak voltage spikes after all.

 

[card16969]

Boy, do I love the taste of Humble Pie - enjoying a big slice now.


Well, after many months since moving the ballasts/igniters away from the clocks thinking that was the problem, I had the dreaded clock reset again. Seems to happen after a really long ride. Voltage was reading healthy at the time. Switched on the high beam, and there it goes. So, I cede to you on this argument - seems to have to due with peak voltage spikes after all.

no humble pie needed at all have some pecan instead haha, honestly there are ALOT of people who have thought it was the exact same thing as you if it wasnt for my edumahcashun i never would have even questioned it either and in all honesty it sucks that you had it happen.

 

[KFORCE1]

Man I am clueless and dumb when it comes to deep electronic stuff. Trying to keep up but all the back and forth between card16969 & jphilipson got me all mixed up reads like this to me:

Hdjdofkkdn bdhss ududjd 60watts benskt idojkd hdk ksvyko EMP jdfuk svhjkk skhb relay jdkfbvy ballast jrkfjg amperage kfkfhg igniters kdjdbvg ksjshh khgd kkfsjkgk lhebnfk low beam jdjh kkdhhg voltage bgkhd source...

Seriously though nice write up and the pics are very helpful. Thanks!

 

[card16969]

Man I am clueless and dumb when it comes to deep electronic stuff. Trying to keep up but all the back and forth between card16969 & jphilipson got me all mixed up reads like this to me:

Hdjdofkkdn bdhss ududjd 60watts benskt idojkd hdk ksvyko EMP jdfuk svhjkk skhb relay jdkfbvy ballast jrkfjg amperage kfkfhg igniters kdjdbvg ksjshh khgd kkfsjkgk lhebnfk low beam jdjh kkdhhg voltage bgkhd source...

Seriously though nice write up and the pics are very helpful. Thanks!

HAHA thanks at the end of mine and his convo he realized i was right when he started having a problem again... its a pretty easy install

 

[RedFalco]

WoW...! Great write up and thank you very much. It appears that I'll be removing my delay box and going the "direct power" route. Never had my clock reset, but do have issues from time to time, w/ quirky gauges in addition to instances where my low beam would not come on at all. Would'nt realize it till I pulled up behind a vehicle and could'nt see the lowbeam in my reflection. I would then have to turn the key off and on to reset, from what I believed to be the delay box. I believe this will solve my issues.
On a side note, for sensitive inline electronic devices where a "clean" ground is a must, I was told to use a diode on the relay to "gate" any potential spikes from the relays "charged coil" leaking back to ground affecting such devices. I've always made it a rule of thumb to add a relay (with diode) to any extra electronic devices I add.
Oh... and a most enlightened debate also. A very good read indeed.

 

[card16969]

WoW...! Great write up and thank you very much. It appears that I'll be removing my delay box and going the "direct power" route. Never had my clock reset, but do have issues from time to time, w/ quirky gauges in addition to instances where my low beam would not come on at all. Would'nt realize it till I pulled up behind a vehicle and could'nt see the lowbeam in my reflection. I would then have to turn the key off and on to reset, from what I believed to be the delay box. I believe this will solve my issues.
On a side note, for sensitive inline electronic devices where a "clean" ground is a must, I was told to use a diode on the relay to "gate" any potential spikes from the relays "charged coil" leaking back to ground affecting such devices. I've always made it a rule of thumb to add a relay (with diode) to any extra electronic devices I add.
Oh... and a most enlightened debate also. A very good read indeed.

never heard of using the diode.. out of all of the relays ive used..

 

[RedFalco]

Yeah.... So for my setup, I'm utilizing ground sensitive controllers and devices... i.e.. Gear position LED (tells me what gear I'm in (GENI)), Nitrous 1st gear "lock out", shift LED & launch LED- each of these add-ons utilize the ground as "trigger" through relays. For my setup, I need to utilize a diode accross the relays coil to ensure no leak back voltage, spikes, etc.. is percieved to ground initiating a false signal back to said devices. In my case last year or two, I added one of those brake light dummies that flash your brake lights three times then holds it solid, then loops continuously when the brake is engaged. So every time I came to a stop my shift light would pulse three times quickly? Added a relay to that brake circuit and got the same thing. Then I remembered the instruction on the addition of the diode. Put the diode in the added relay and the pulsing shift light was gone. Maybe I got a special thing going on... Sorry to muddy the water, just thought I'd throw that out there.

Back to your subject. I did remove my delay box and rewired my setup per your instruction (except with diodes....lol) and my lights are now flawless.. They come on ALL the time, everytime. I don't see the spike in gauges sixty seconds after I turn the key on. (I had the has beem delay set to 60 secs.)

Can't thank you enough for this write up. Worked great for me!!

Heres my completed setup after following your wiring instruction. I got everything contained in the nose, relays, hid boxes, igniters..etc.

 

[card16969]

Yeah.... So for my setup, I'm utilizing ground sensitive controllers and devices... i.e.. Gear position LED (tells me what gear I'm in (GENI)), Nitrous 1st gear "lock out", shift LED & launch LED- each of these add-ons utilize the ground as "trigger" through relays. For my setup, I need to utilize a diode accross the relays coil to ensure no leak back voltage, spikes, etc.. is percieved to ground initiating a false signal back to said devices. In my case last year or two, I added one of those brake light dummies that flash your brake lights three times then holds it solid, then loops continuously when the brake is engaged. So every time I came to a stop my shift light would pulse three times quickly? Added a relay to that brake circuit and got the same thing. Then I remembered the instruction on the addition of the diode. Put the diode in the added relay and the pulsing shift light was gone. Maybe I got a special thing going on... Sorry to muddy the water, just thought I'd throw that out there.

Back to your subject. I did remove my delay box and rewired my setup per your instruction (except with diodes....lol) and my lights are now flawless.. They come on ALL the time, everytime. I don't see the spike in gauges sixty seconds after I turn the key on. (I had the has beem delay set to 60 secs.)

Can't thank you enough for this write up. Worked great for me!!

Heres my completed setup after following your wiring instruction. I got everything contained in the nose, relays, hid boxes, igniters..etc.

if its a pulse signal where it only uses a pulse to initiate things ive used diodes such as door locks ... when using a pulse the diode helps because it only flows one way and i dont remember the correct terminology but it can double feed and send a single to activate more than once. For your flashing lights its the same thing its a pulse signal and i can see why you would use it on that. For a direct voltage situation like lights you dont have to. Im glad my writeup solved your problem and hopefully it made it easy for you.

 

[ThommoHawk]

Great write-up and explanation of things card16969...

I too always use relays when wiring in HiDs because as you say, once lit the curent draw is less than a stock Halogen bulb but the striking current is higher and it is this that causes the voltage dip on many systems if wired into the stock bike loom.

I also protect against back emfs from the relay coils with a diode across said coil, or use relays with diodes in-built. Without these, some, NOT all, bikes seem to suffer from flashes of other dash indication LEDs and fitting diodes quenches these back emfs to stop it.

 

[card16969]

Great write-up and explanation of things card16969...

I too always use relays when wiring in HiDs because as you say, once lit the curent draw is less than a stock Halogen bulb but the striking current is higher and it is this that causes the voltage dip on many systems if wired into the stock bike loom.

I also protect against back emfs from the relay coils with a diode across said coil, or use relays with diodes in-built. Without these, some, NOT all, bikes seem to suffer from flashes of other dash indication LEDs and fitting diodes quenches these back emfs to stop it.

ive never worried about the diodes because in my opinion and this is just my opinion when you seperate from the factory harness and get ground and power from the battery it lowers the chances of a emp coming through the system but like i said thats just my pesonal opinion

 

[black diamond busa]

Awesome write up and I understood 95% of that debate. Now my thread jack? Is in car audio which do you prefer a capacitor or extra battery?

 

[outofnowhere]

btw this is my first how to post... hope you guys like it

I found the instructions,This is Wilson so you can disregarde my pm.Thanks again.

 

[IMARIDER]

I know this thread is a few years old, but does this work for GEN 2, 2011?

 

[TallTom]

i know this thread is a few years old, but does this work for gen 2, 2011?

yep!!

 

[IMARIDER]

Cool. Thanks TallTom! Ride SAFE.

Also, GREAT write up and pics.

 

[InfiniteReality]

I used 2 relays when I wired mine up, but did it differently. I wired my yellow halogen high beam to come on normally when I turn the bike on. When night time hits, I flip the high beam switch up and my low beam comes on and the yellow goes off. Basically my high beam switch is converted to a headlight switch.