Gen II TB Sync Questions/Help

[FALQN]

I pulled the airbox off and started identifying all of the important pieces, when I realized there were four air adjustment screws instead of the three in Jinksters thread. So I went to the service manual and read up on the Gen II throttle body sync. The service manual says to disconnect the IAP sensor connection during synchronization and to use the SDS software to reset the ISC setting after you're done.

Jinkster (Gen I) plugged the IAP sensor into another vacuum port while synching, that is not an option here, as there are no additional ports. Did you follow the service manual and disconnect the sensor?

Has anyone used a homemade manometer that resembles the business end of a fork (4 clear tubes connected at the bottom and filled with fluid) to balance their TB's?

Lastly and probably most importantly, how concerned should I be about not being able to reset the ISC setting with the Suzuki software?

Thanks for any information!

 

[dadofthree]

Don't know, but you really can't screw up a manometer. Just bumping it for you brother.

 

[sixpack577]

Don't know, but you really can't screw up a manometer. Just bumping it for you brother.

If the manometer isn't sealed(not all of them are)you can suck the fluid out of the tubes.

 

[dadofthree]

If the manometer isn't sealed(not all of them are)you can suck the fluid out of the tubes.

Alright, nothings impossible, I could break my finger (s) typing this reply but statistically speaking ...... it ain't gonna happen

 

[dadofthree]

Still bumping, fingers good

 

[sixpack577]

Alright, nothings impossible, I could break my finger (s) typing this reply but statistically speaking ...... it ain't gonna happen

No, really, it's not hard at all for carbs or throttle bodies suck to the fluid out of the tubes on an unsealed manometer.

 

[FALQN]

A few people have used water in their homemade meters, so if you suck some fluid in...big deal, it's just water. The only change for a meter using water is that it must be a little taller...to offset the lack of density vs. mercury.

There's gotta be Gen II owners out there that have done this maintenance.....

 

[FALQN]

Ok. From what I've read about so far, you can not synch the throttle bodies unless you have the right tool and software to 'freeze' the ISC while you make the adjustments and then reset the ISC after you're done.
Other wise the ECU trys to compensate for the changes and the motor runs worse.

Guess I'll be holding off on this.

 

[sixpack577]

A few people have used water in their homemade meters, so if you suck some fluid in...big deal, it's just water. The only change for a meter using water is that it must be a little taller...to offset the lack of density vs. mercury.

There's gotta be Gen II owners out there that have done this maintenance.....

I wasn't talking about homemade, alot of the manufactured manometers don't use sealed tubes.
If the fluid gets sucked out it's likely not to harm anything...only what to use once the fluid is gone?

I'll look in Ecu Editor and see if the ISC can be turned off. I've synced carbs and tb's before, but haven't done a gen2 yet.
I need to know too as I plan on doing mine.

 

[sixpack577]

Yes, the ISC can be turned off and on in ecu editor.

 

[FALQN]

Thanks Sixpack!! That was my next option to look at. Looks like I will be getting an ECU Editor harness this spring. My bike only has 5,700 miles on it, but it does not run as smooth as the day I picked it up. So I thought I would check the sync before the 7,500 mile service mark. I think I'll go ahead and check it, just to see where I'm at.

It's always about knowledge and the right tools!!

Thanks, for your invetigative services Six!!

 

[SKnight]

A few thoughts.

First, at 5700 miles the throttle bodies probably don't need synched. Look where the blades close against the outer bodies themselves and see if there's carbon buildup. If so clean it out even if you plan to synch. Chances are that'll smooth things out a good bit.

Second, and I don't know what havoc it would bring, but I was going to unplug the ISC to do my synch then reset the ECM to clear whatever code it would set. That should base idle it so you can synch it.

Last, I use a Uni-syn to synch mine. Easy, inexpensive. Just start at the main body and work your way right until they all match. Easy as pie.

 

[sixpack577]

Thanks Sixpack!! That was my next option to look at. Looks like I will be getting an ECU Editor harness this spring. My bike only has 5,700 miles on it, but it does not run as smooth as the day I picked it up. So I thought I would check the sync before the 7,500 mile service mark. I think I'll go ahead and check it, just to see where I'm at.

It's always about knowledge and the right tools!!

Thanks, for your invetigative services Six!!

Yes sir.
You can download the Ecu Editor software for free too.
That way you can see all of the options it offers, and become more familiar with it before you buy the flasher and harness.

ecueditor.com for Hayabusa K2-K7, K8-, BKing and Gixxer K7-

 

[sixpack577]

A few thoughts.

First, at 5700 miles the throttle bodies probably don't need synched. Look where the blades close against the outer bodies themselves and see if there's carbon buildup. If so clean it out even if you plan to synch. Chances are that'll smooth things out a good bit.

Second, and I don't know what havoc it would bring, but I was going to unplug the ISC to do my synch then reset the ECM to clear whatever code it would set. That should base idle it so you can synch it.

Last, I use a Uni-syn to synch mine. Easy, inexpensive. Just start at the main body and work your way right until they all match. Easy as pie.

It is likely that they aren't out of sync.
However, they may still be able to be improved upon from where they are.
You never know how things roll off the assembly line.
He has the desire and know-how, so might as well check and see.
I'de definately sync them before a dyno tune or datalogging too, just to be sure you're getting the most from your efforts.

 

[JINKSTER]

i need to let you folks know 2 things...

1. I dunno squat about the GENII's..never been under the hood of one and?..

2. And trust me here...homebrew manometer or not?...water or mercury?...you don't want to be sucking either through your TB's (or God forbid) your intakes...the water might not be as much of a risk as it would tend to atomize and turn into steam (like a water injection system "administered in extremely small doses") but DOES raise chamber pressures significantly opening up the possibility of nasty things like blown head gaskets, cracked heads/rings and/or shattered pistons...the liquid mercury?..you suck that stuff through the system and i'd be shocked if catastrophic internal damage didn't occur.."it's not combustable"..so..be careful..i don't let anybody stand within 10 feet of the throttle when i'm synching with my motion pro liquid merc tubes unless it's to hold the gauges with one hand and the other in their pocket.

That said?..right now i'm wondering how AT fluid might work/act in a manometer..at least it would be safer but imnsho?..sucking any foriegn fluids through your engine while it's running is NEVER a good idea.

 

[sixpack577]

i need to let you folks know 2 things...

1. I dunno squat about the GENII's..never been under the hood of one and?..

2. And trust me here...homebrew manometer or not?...water or mercury?...you don't want to be sucking either through your TB's (or God forbid) your intakes...the water might not be as much of a risk as it would tend to atomize and turn into steam (like a water injection system "administered in extremely small doses") but DOES raise chamber pressures significantly opening up the possibility of nasty things like blown head gaskets, cracked heads/rings and/or shattered pistons...the liquid mercury?..you suck that stuff through the system and i'd be shocked if catastrophic internal damage didn't occur.."it's not combustable"..so..be careful..i don't let anybody stand within 10 feet of the throttle when i'm synching with my motion pro liquid merc tubes unless it's to hold the gauges with one hand and the other in their pocket.

That said?..right now i'm wondering how AT fluid might work/act in a manometer..at least it would be safer but imnsho?..sucking any foriegn fluids through your engine while it's running is NEVER a good idea.

Agreed, but I've never seen a manometer with mercury in the tubes that isn't sealed.
The unsealed Motion Pro I have has some sort of water based blue goo in it, which i still wouldn't want sucked into the tb's.