Gen II 1507 questions

Draco1340

Registered
What kind of experiences have people had with a 3mm stroke to the Gen II crank.
I have a 1441 Gen II with spun rods, and the repair work for the rod journals is only half the cost of the stroked crank.
APE offers 5 mm spacers for the Gen I motor, but I would like to keep my pistons and rods, so I assume I need a 3mm spacer for the block.
Can these cranks take the same abuse the Gen I cranks take.
I plan on launching the bike on motor through first, and then progressively feeding in 100 HP on spray.
 
I know Dave O made huge power with his 1507 years back, but I don't know of too many others. I was actually worried about the oil grooves in the mains, thinking that might make the crank weaker.
 
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Back in 2004 Dave Owen, Don Smith and I all did 1507s around the same time. We talked to each other about the mods since it was uncharted territory. My 1507 did 232hp naturally aspirated. I dont remember what Don's put out but here is the article

DRAGBIKE.COM, Headlining News From The Motorcycle Drag Racing World

So did any of you snap cranks? What kind of RPM were you able to turn. Piston speed is starting to get up there. My head currently can't flow enough for a 1507.
 
Non of us broke any cranks. Don sold Big Poppa Pimp and it ran at Bonneville with no problems. This is my piston during a tear down inspection after countless street miles and 150 shots of spray. Hardly any wear. I rev mine to redline, no need to have a high revving stroker motor,they have a ton of torque. You will have to reset your idle from 750 rpm to 1500 rpm. Mine would not idle below that due to the increased piston speed.

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What kind of numbers did the 1441 run?

Low 8's on motor right around 160 mph. It was probably making around 220 to 225 at 11,500 shift points using MPH calculations on motor. I ran my first nitrous pass of the season, and the throttle position switch activating the nitrous stuck wide open. The entire bottle emptied into the engine and by the time I shut the motor off in the shutdown, there was sufficient detonation to F up the bearings.

The strange thing was it was very difficult to diagnose. The motor made no knocking, had no metal in the oil or bearings, perfect leak down, turned over very easily, and idled like a champ. It was just down on power (~ 30 hp). I tore it down looking for hurt rings or ??? Couldn't find anything wrong until I got to the crank. Literally a 5 dollar switch caused a meltdown.
 
Low 8's on motor right around 160 mph. It was probably making around 220 to 225 at 11,500 shift points using MPH calculations on motor. I ran my first nitrous pass of the season, and the throttle position switch activating the nitrous stuck wide open. The entire bottle emptied into the engine and by the time I shut the motor off in the shutdown, there was sufficient detonation to F up the bearings.

The strange thing was it was very difficult to diagnose. The motor made no knocking, had no metal in the oil or bearings, perfect leak down, turned over very easily, and idled like a champ. It was just down on power (~ 30 hp). I tore it down looking for hurt rings or ??? Couldn't find anything wrong until I got to the crank. Literally a 5 dollar switch caused a meltdown.


Thats life for you. Some of the smallest things cause the biggest problems
 
Here are some thing that I did for my stroker motor

Crankshaft and con rods Nitrided and Mikronited
High volume oil pump and high pressure oil pressure regulator
All bearings dry film coated
Crank case modded for more oiling
 
the failure of and use of the switch is the reason i quit a long time a ago installing them. I had a customer want nitrous faster while testing and told him he wasn't ready but he insisted. he took off and slide back in the seat, throttle opened wide open to fast and before he was at 60 ft he was at 70 % flow of nitrous of a 60 shot with a built motor.

I put it on a button now or you can install it how you like once you leave here... Death nor a hurt motor wont lie on my consious, as i sleep at night...

Low 8's on motor right around 160 mph. It was probably making around 220 to 225 at 11,500 shift points using MPH calculations on motor. I ran my first nitrous pass of the season, and the throttle position switch activating the nitrous stuck wide open. The entire bottle emptied into the engine and by the time I shut the motor off in the shutdown, there was sufficient detonation to F up the bearings.

The strange thing was it was very difficult to diagnose. The motor made no knocking, had no metal in the oil or bearings, perfect leak down, turned over very easily, and idled like a champ. It was just down on power (~ 30 hp). I tore it down looking for hurt rings or ??? Couldn't find anything wrong until I got to the crank. Literally a 5 dollar switch caused a meltdown.
 
What kind of experiences have people had with a 3mm stroke to the Gen II crank.
I have a 1441 Gen II with spun rods, and the repair work for the rod journals is only half the cost of the stroked crank.
APE offers 5 mm spacers for the Gen I motor, but I would like to keep my pistons and rods, so I assume I need a 3mm spacer for the block.
Can these cranks take the same abuse the Gen I cranks take.
I plan on launching the bike on motor through first, and then progressively feeding in 100 HP on spray.

Actually the spacers are half that. The spacer for the 5 mm is 2.5mm, etc.

We are going to be offering 68 mm stroked cranks done on new gen 2 cores. This will be a very limited deal.
 
Marine can flute a gen I crank with gen II journal flutes. (*My gen I crank)


On that note Gen II main bearings alone will significantly improve rod oiling over Gen I. I used to drill an additional hole in my shells.....Suzuki made it much easier.

I was actually worried about the oil grooves in the mains, thinking that might make the crank weaker.
The amount of material removed and location will not significantly weaken the crank. Spun bearings is IMO a much bigger concern when dealing with these motors.

And....A properly built 1507 can be a reliable motor (not a street). That being said its not just putting a 5mm crank and +.30 and calling it a 1507 at the end of the day.

~JH
 
Just finished checking the crank and as luck would have it, its bent .002. Think I'm going with a new Suzuki replacement.
 
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