Gen 3 Break In and Nanny Settings

Mayhemlv

Mayhemlv

Registered
Hello,
I'm a new guy around here, picking up a 22 Black Hayabusa hopefully today. I'm coming off of a VTX1800C, MT07, Ninja 400, Shadow VT1100, and Sportster 1200. I've done break ins on the Ninja and MT, with my approach on the MT being based on riding through the rev range in every gear, no prolonged idling or constant rpms for the first several 100 mi. I've heard and read different procedures, and I'm sure these bikes are mainly broke in before leaving the factory.

This being my first Hayabusa, I plan to ride it through the rpm's without redlining or prolonged pulls above 5k. I understand the engine needs to be under load.

Being new to the rider controls, what settings should I consider, while still aiming for a robust break in procedure without launching myself to the space station?

Am I correct to assume the engine will still be under enough load in B and C modes for proper break in?

Should I bump up the engine braking setting to keep the load on while off throttle?

As I said in the other thread, you all have built something remarkable here, and I'm glad to humbly join your community.
 
20220311_105355.jpg
 
Welcome and sweet ride!
I don't think it matters what mode you're in as long as you vary the rpms... of course there is the other notion that if you just do around 10 heat cycles and you're fine, I bet either way would work. I did what the manual recommended and also what my dealership service tech advised.
 
Mayhemlv said:
Hello,
I'm a new guy around here, picking up a 22 Black Hayabusa hopefully today. I'm coming off of a VTX1800C, MT07, Ninja 400, Shadow VT1100, and Sportster 1200. I've done break ins on the Ninja and MT, with my approach on the MT being based on riding through the rev range in every gear, no prolonged idling or constant rpms for the first several 100 mi. I've heard and read different procedures, and I'm sure these bikes are mainly broke in before leaving the factory.

This being my first Hayabusa, I plan to ride it through the rpm's without redlining or prolonged pulls above 5k. I understand the engine needs to be under load.

Being new to the rider controls, what settings should I consider, while still aiming for a robust break in procedure without launching myself to the space station?

Am I correct to assume the engine will still be under enough load in B and C modes for proper break in?

Should I bump up the engine braking setting to keep the load on while off throttle?

As I said in the other thread, you all have built something remarkable here, and I'm glad to humbly join your community.
Click to expand...
Remember proper break in is more about the engine vacuum after load to seat those rings in under vacuum. So take her up in RPM and then off the throttle, let the engine vacuum pull those pistons tight. Transmission brake in is a different story. That's why they don't want you going over certain rpm range. It isn't for the engine, it's for the tranny. I brake in tranny and engine separately.
 
sgerry said:
“I brake in tranny and engine separately.”

…..how?
Click to expand...
Brake in the engine by going thru the RMP range slowly while at a standstill. And by slow I mean really slow. Take it close to redline and then off the throttle fully to let the vacuum do it's thing. If you hit a high resistance or vibration spot on the rpm range don't push past it by force. Never force the piston. Just throttle back down and start again. Eventually those resistance points in the rpm range go away and so will the vibration. Keep repeating it until you feel the pistons moving freely. Tight pistons and rings have a feeling and vibration to them. Once you got the sweet spot your hand will feel it at the throttle the way the engine vibrates. Make sure the bike is upright as well and not on the sidestand. After you have those pistons moving freely with minimum resistance then take her out on the road to start braking in the tranny. Throttle up slowly to 1k below redline and then off throttle fully to let the vacuum do it's thing. That helps seat the rings during load and decel as well as start getting the gears to wear away. Only takes a few miles of doing this to get it done right. Afterwards take your time doing regular rides to get the tranny gears worn to spec. If you want to be on point about it change the oil that came from factory first. Fortnine did some videos on factory oil. Scary stuff the amount of contamination at the factory. Then again at 50 miles, 250, and 500. Butter smooth engine after that. Works the same for cars and tractors.
 
Past my break in and sump full of motul. I did what I've done in the past and what was primarily recommended here. Varied rpms and rode it vigorously. No discrepancies. I bought the service manual and did my 600 service about a week ago. Loving this bike!
 
I always thought the break in was liability for new tires, these motors and most performance stuff u can rip it off the showroom floor, just change the oil at 100miles and again at like 600miles and don’t ever bounce it off the limiter in neutral.

The proof (in my eyes anyway) is that everyone has their own breakin theory across all the brands but u rarely see issues. (I’ve never seen it honestly but thiS is the internet so someone’s mothers, brothers, cousin probably knows a guy whose pistons went thru the cylinder wall bcuz he only waited 599miles instead of 600 to redline his bike lol) so rarely do u see an issue bcuz a bike was broken The “wrong way“
 
Next week I will get my 2022 Busa delivered to my home.

Does the motorcycle come with an user manual? I’ve seen that everybody talks about the service manual that we have to pay for. These are different things, right?

The breaking in is specified in the user manual? What does it says?
 
Busa3Fan said:
Next week I will get my 2022 Busa delivered to my home.

Does the motorcycle come with an user manual? I’ve seen that everybody talks about the service manual that we have to pay for. These are different things, right?

The breaking in is specified in the user manual? What does it says?
Click to expand...
Your bike should come with a user manual. The service manual makes a user manual look like a quick start pamphlet in comparison. The user manual will state the manufacturer recommended procedure for break in.
 
Busa3Fan said:
Next week I will get my 2022 Busa delivered to my home.

Does the motorcycle come with an user manual? I’ve seen that everybody talks about the service manual that we have to pay for. These are different things, right?

The breaking in is specified in the user manual? What does it says?
Click to expand...
If I remember correctly the user manual say less than 5K rpm for 500 miles and less than 8K rpm for another 500 miles.
 
ZeePopo said:
Tight pistons and rings have a feeling and vibration to them. Once you got the sweet spot your hand will feel it at the throttle the way the engine vibrates. Make sure the bike is upright as well and not on the sidestand.
Click to expand...
Gen 3 is throttle by wire. I can't imagine there is direct feedback. Maybe put your left hand on the frame somewhere?
 
dcnblues said:
Gen 3 is throttle by wire. I can't imagine there is direct feedback. Maybe put your left hand on the frame somewhere?
Click to expand...
The engine vibration will reverberate the entire bike, but yeah frame could work too. Just have to pay attention to how that vibration changes thru the Rev range and where it begins to build resistance.
 
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