Break-in procedures

[FJRider]

I'm curious how many of you follow (or try to follow) the manufacturers break-in procedures?

I read MotoMan's suggestions "Break-in Secrets", www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) about break-in. His methods really blew me away! But I have to admit, he makes a lot of sense. Although he admits himself that his ideas are controversial. Interesting too that he suggests changing the oil after the first 20 miles! With all those new engine parts trying to work together, that also seems to make a lot of sense to flush the crud out so it doesn't get circulated.

Does anyone have any first hand knowledge whether the MotoMan's procedures really work?

 

[moondog]

nothing too radical in the first 500 miles. Then, ride the a** out of it. I changed oil and filter at 450 the first time then every 1500 after that. Oil analysis has been perfect, normal wear indicated.

 

[rubbersidedown]

I've read just about everything on this subject.

If I was breaking in something new...

"Fast Break-in" = "Fast Bike"

I'm also a big fan of the 20 mile oil change.

 

[1127 TO 1299]

A different theory

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[bigdr]

Having owned two Busa's from new and breaking them both in I would consider myself an expert in this field...(only joking) ..My first busa I treated with kid gloves as per the manual says..My second , the phrase , ride it like you stole it , springs to mind . The harder break in definitely seems to have made a difference for the better and I would do the same again...

 

[Jynx]

Here is what I did...right or wrong:

1st 300 miles...kept it under 6k for the most part...couple blips to 7k. Constant accels and decels with the engine. Changed the oil with dyno oil and zook filter.

301-697 - Kept it under 8k for the most part. Think I seen 9k once or twice. Accel and decel with the engine as much as possible. Changed the oil with dyno oil and zook filter.

698-1047 - Kept it under redline. Still doing the accel and decel but not nearly as much. Changed the oil with dyno oil and zook filter.

1048 - 1532 - Redlined the ##### and rode it like I stole it. Changed to synthetic oil, k&n oil filter.

I am at 2300 now and will be doing another oil change, likely next weekend. Yeah, only 1000 miles or so on the synthetic...but I look at the fact that unless I drop the pan, there is still a lot of dyno oil left floating around...so I want to get it out of there before it breaks down further.

 

[greeneinc]

I have read and heard the ride it like you stole it theory for a while and alot of people used to do that a long time ago. My dad told me that when he was young he had a Hemi Challenger and he did this theory with the break in and the car ran like a wild ape. I agree with the theory and did so with my GSXR750 after having the engine work done to it.

 

[Aceshigh]

I've been beatin the piss out of mine since I got it a few weeks ago. I kept it under 5,000 RPMs until I got over 150 miles......then I 've been beatin the snot out of it every chance I got.

I don't think runnin it easy makes a difference. But the first 150 miles is important to keep it smooth. I was redlining up to 4th yesterday and I think I'm close to 300miles now. Everyone has a difffering opinion on this topic.

 

[BentValve]

I followed the book but broke the rules occationally...most importantly I was really careful to not hold it in one spot too long.

Results are my HP is excellent, burns zero oil.

 

[thesnake]

keep her under 5k till the first service, then ride her as I wish... hard.

 

[diesel]

I'm thinking the engineers at Suzuki might have some idea what they're talking about.

 

[FJRider]

In the "How to break-in" article it talks of the "cylinder honing" as a sort of "file action" which helps grind down the rings to match the cylinder wall. And if the bike is run hard at first, it takes best advantage of that filing process. On the other hand a careful break-in process doesn't reap the same benefits. Makes a hell of a lot of sense to me!

As for the oil change at 20 miles, it's too late for my FJR and Z750S, but I'm damn sure going to do the early oil change on my Busa! Got the filter and oil for that oil change today!

 

[BentValve]

In the "How to break-in" article it talks of the "cylinder honing" as a sort of "file action" which helps grind down the rings to match the cylinder wall.  And if the bike is run hard at first, it takes best advantage of that filing process.  On the other hand a careful break-in process doesn't reap the same benefits.  Makes a hell of a lot of sense to me!  

As for the oil change at 20 miles, it's too late for my FJR and Z750S, but I'm damn sure going to do the early oil change on my Busa!  Got the filter and oil for that oil change today!

Makes no sence to me on both counts. I agree with diesel.

 

[BulletTrain]

A different theory

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I break mine in like I stole them.

Actually the mototune method is basically what I do, but not on the dyno. I do it on the street, er, closed course.

Already done the break-in 20 miles on the 636. Going to change the oil & filter tomorrow and then ride the shid out of it. I'm with mototune dude... I think the factory break-in stuff is horse crap.

 

[BulletTrain]

I'm thinking the engineers at Suzuki might have some idea what they're talking about.

Yeah, but as far as I can tell, the break-in stuff, as well as the rest of the owner's manual was written by the lawyers, not the engineers.

I know this is a hot topic and I'm not tryin' to start crap. I've just broken in a lot of cars, and now two bikes using the hard break-in and the ones I've ran in hard have always seemed stronger and ran cleaner (read no puffs of smoke on shifts in stick cars) than the ones I babied before I started "breakin' them in like I intended to drive them."