Gen 2 Air Cleaner Box Removal

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Air Cleaner Box Removal

The air cleaner box needs to be removed to access the PAIR solenoid and install PAIR reed valve blockoff plates. It is also necessary to remove the air cleaner box to access stick coils and spark plugs and to remove the engine head cover to inspect valve clearances.

Prop, hang or remove the fuel tank (see steps 1-5, https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/168658-gen-2-how-remove-fuel-tank.html).

Tools:

silicone spray lube
3mm hex tool
sheets of plastic secured with a rubber band or a clean rag
Q-tip

1. Remove IAP sensor from the back of the air cleaner box. A little silicone spray lube will help to slide the rubber from the mount.
rmvIAPsensor.jpg


2. Disconnect the ISC valve hose and the PCV hose from the back of the air cleaner box.
rmvISCPCVhs.jpg


3. Disconnect the PAIR hose from the right side of the air cleaner box.
dscnPAIRhose.jpg


4. Loosen the right duct clamp screw with a 3mm hex tool. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREW COMPLETELY.
lsnrghtclamp.jpg


clmpscrwspcrs.jpg

The duct clamp screws have spacers between the clamps which will fall out if the screws are removed completely.

5. Loosen the left clamp screw with a 3mm hex tool. Disconnect the AIT sensor which is the grey connector lead right ahead of the left duct clamp screw.
IATssrlftclamp.jpg


6. Remove the air cleaner box cover (see https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/168662-gen-2-air-cleaner-element-inspection.html,steps 1-3). Pull up on the ducts while pressing up on the bottom of the air cleaner box from below. After removal of the air cleaner box, cover the throttle body bores with sheets of plastic secured with a rubber band or a clean rag to prevent debris from falling in.

Installation
7. Lube the throttle body bores and the ducts with silicone lube. Push the ducts back onto the bores. Tighten the duct clamp screws on both sides (see steps 4 and 5 of this tutorial). Secure the air cleaner box lid onto the air cleaner box (seehttps://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/168662-gen-2-air-cleaner-element-inspection.html, step 5).
lubeTBboressupsmall.jpg
lubeductssmall.jpg


8. Reconnect the ISC and PCV hoses (see also step 2 of this tutorial). Reconnect the PAIR hose (see step 3). Mount the IAP sensor back to its bracket (see step 1).
rattchIAPsensr.jpg


9. Connect the IAT sensor lead (see also step 5 of this tutorial).
conIATsensor.jpg


Lower the fuel tank and secure the fuel tank mounting bolts(see steps 10-11, https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/168658-gen-2-how-remove-fuel-tank.html).
 
The service manual covers this procedure quite well using line drawings which are 1000sx better than the sh!t b/w photos they usually have as illustrations.

There is no info included in the SM about NOT removing the duct clamp screws all the way. I did and had a heck of a time going fishing for a couple of the small spacers that fell out.

I could have just posted "DON'T REMOVE THE DUCT CLAMP SCREWS ALL THE WAY OR ELSE" ...you will be screwed!! But I had all these other pics and thought it might be comforting to other newb wrenchers to see the process in action (not to mention the extra details that experts just take for granted).
 
oh, the SM does NOT tell you about using silicone spray lube applied with a Q-tip to help slide ribber parts like ducts together either.

I think just about everything is covered in the SM. Not as good as I will cover it though...
 
A little advice please.......

I am attempting to fit PAIR reed block-off plates to my 2015 model bike.

I've followed the above steps but hit a problem at Step 6: Remove the air cleaner box cover....Pull up on the ducts while pressing up on the bottom of the air cleaner box from below.

The ducts won't unseat from the throttle bodies even after loosening the clamps a good 3/8 inch or so. I've tried pulling on the ducts while pushing up from the air cleaner box to no avail i.e doing this one by one doesn't have any affect.

As it's a fairly new bike I don't want to force anything.

Could it be there is simply too much sticktion between the rubber ducts and the throttle bodies..........if so any suggestions please?
 
Sorry I missed this. Hope you got it by now! I'm sure it was just the rubber stuck to the T-bodies.
 
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