Gen 2 Stator Cover Removal and Generator Coil/CKP Sensor Removal

[Mythos]

Gen 2 Stator Cover Removal and Generator Coil/CKP Sensor Removal
​

The stator cover (generator cover) is removed in order to access the generator rotor or the stator coils which are located on the inside of the cover. The stator cover is usually damaged in a left hand side crash or a tip over so it is often replaced for that reason.

The aftermarket covers will be a lot heavier than the OEM cover but they are are designed to resist a crash and protect the engine from debris entering the motor and causing much more severe damage.


Threads that I used to get info behind this tutorial.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/110148-had-left-cover-off-today.html

apply silicone in the cold?

Tools:
phillips screwdriver
electricians tape
oil drain pan
8mm socket
ratchet
plastic prying tool
plastic bags
tape
needle nose pliers
5mm hex tool
Sharpie permanent marker
4mm hex tool
3mm hex tool
red Loctite #271
brake parts cleaner
cotton swab
5mm hex tool socket
torque wrench
plastic ball point pen
cloth denatured alcohol
3Bond engine sealant # 1207B
artists palette knife
new stator cover gasket

Do first:
Run the fuel tank to LOW. Lift and prop the fuel tank (see https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/168658-gen-2-how-remove-fuel-tank.html steps 1 and 2).

Recommended--Place the bike ona rear stand so it stands vertical.

Remove left side cowling (see https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/127746-gen2-hayabusa-fairing-tutorial-videos-w-pics.html).

Disconnect battery negative cable with a phillips screwdriver.



I use electricians tape to cover the battery terminal and then I also tape the cable connector. Finally I place a rag over the battery negative terminal to prevent any accidental contact between the negative terminal and a ground.

Clean the area around the stator cover of all foreign matter that could contaminate the engine with the stator cover removed.


Removal
1. Follow the wire that comes out of the stator cover (see second pic, step 2 of this tutorial). It routes under the fuel tank and to the inside of the left hand frame. Inside the lower left of the frame locate a large black generator coupler [G] and a small black/white CKP sensor coupler [CKP], both fastened to the bundle of other wires with a removable plastic tie [T]. The yellow tube is an aftermarket clutch line, not OEM.

CKP Sensor Coupler - View from from inside the fuel tank compartment toward the left frame.
Be careful to locate the proper couplers. There is also a green coupler next to the CKP sensor coupler. The green coupler does not need to be disconnected to remove the stator cover wire.


Disconnect the black and white leads of the CPK sensor coupler.


Generator coupler -- View from the left side of the bike.
Note the routing of all wires (see step 34 of this tutorial) for reinstallation. Unfasten the plastic tie. Gently pull the stator cover wire along with the generator coupler [G] from below the left side of the frame. Disconnect the generator coupler.


Clear the stator cover wire along with the generator couplers and CKP sensor coupler to the left side of the bike.



2. Place an oil drain pan under the stator cover. Use an 8mm socket and a ratchet to
remove each bolt from the stator cover. The stator cover will remain tightly held to the engine case by two dowel pins and the powerful magnetic force of the generator.



4. There are 4 small tabs around the edge of the stator cover. These may be used to pull and pry against to remove the cover from the magnetic field and the two dowel pins inside. The front and rear tabs are located near the dowel pins, so those are the most important places to pull.

!!!Take great care that you do not allow a finger to slide under the stator cover as it comes off. The magnetic force is enough to pull the cover back onto the engine case and cause hand injuries!!!!


I was not able to move the cover with my fingers. I used a plastic prying tool to lift under the front and rear tabs, pulling the cover outward. I pulled as evenly as possible with the plastic tool to help keep the cover from getting cocked and binding on the dowel pins. In the picture above, you can clearly see the gap between the stator cover and the engine case. The cover fit so tightly to the pins that it did not get pulled back against the engine case by the generator magnet.

5. Remove the stator cover along with the wire, stator coils and CKP sensor. Careful, it weighs a few pounds. Note the location of the dowel pins/holes [D] in the engine case and/or the stator cover.



To prevent engine contamination caused by particles carried on drafts or wind or from other accidents, I always cover any opening into the engine with a plastic bag. I tape it securely if the motor will be left open for a prolonged period of time.

Stator and CKP Sensor Removal
The CKP sensor is connected to the stator coils by a wire. These two parts come out together.



6. Dowel pins may have stuck inside of the stator cover. If necessary, use a needle nose pliers to grasp down the side of the dowel pin and turn it while pulling it straight out of the hole. I wrapped tape around the dowel pins to avoid scraping them during this procedure. DO NOT use a regular pliers or vice grips to grasp the dowel pin around its circumference. That may crush or deform the dowel pin.





7. Use a 5mm hex tool to break loose the three screws that hold the stator in place.

The short, thick wire that connects the CKP sensor and the stator will make the proper installation position of the stator obvious. Still, I used a Sharpie permanent marker to indicate which screw was closest to the CKP sensor.


8. Loosen the stator cover gasket by gently twisting it up and down over the rubber plug where the stator wire inserts into the stator cover.



9. Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the two CKP sensor screws.



10. Use your two thumbs to press the rubber stator cover wire grommet out of the stator cover. Remove the three stator screws.



11. Remove the Stator, CKP sensor and the stator cover wire all in one piece from the stator cover. Wrap the stator and CKP sensor and the generator cover in unused plastic bags to keep dust and potential engine contaminants off.


Depending on how fast you expect to complete the work, you may wish to remove the plastic from the engine and loosely install the stator cover without the stator attached. Place a piece of tape over the stator/CKP sensor wire grommet hole.

 

[Mythos]

Installation
Woodcraft Stator covers are designed to withstand a crash without breaking open. The skid plate which can be replaced in the event of a crash will usually leave the rest of the cover undamaged.

The OEM stator cover installs exactly the same as the Woodcraft cover with a few minor differences which I will point out in the following instructions.


12. Place the Skid plate on the outside of the Woodcraft cover.



13. Be sure the skid plate mounting bolts are each fitted with a washer and an O-ring as shown below.



14. Use red Loctite #271 on the skid plate mounting screws.





15. Thread the screws into the skid plate from inside the cover. Tighten the screws evenly using a 3mm hex tool. DO NOT over-tighten the the mounting screws. If the mounting plate in which the screws thread into is aluminum the threads will probably strip or stretch easier than they would in steel.



You will feel the O-ring compress and the washer draw up to the inside surface of the cover. I tightened just a few degrees more. The delicate 3mm hex in the screw head may strip if the screw is tightened much past snug. Red loctite will keep the screws secure.


16. Use brake parts cleaner to wash the oil off of the stator set bolts and the CKP sensor mount bolts, if you will be using thread locking agent. Allow the bolts to dry.



17. This will be the last opportunity to wipe any small pieces of dust or foreign matter from the inside of the cover. Your finger is probably the best tool to do this. Paper towels or fabric may create static and leave dust or fibers behind.



18. If you will be installing an aftermarket cover and using thread locking agent, clean the oil from the holes in the stator where the mounting bolts pass through. I used a cotton swab moistened with brake parts cleaner.



19. Place the stator in the cover aligning the bolt holes. Position the Sharpie mark that was made in step 7 nearest to the seat for the CKP sensor.



20. Thread the generator stator set bolts in and draw all three up evenly, a little at a
time with a 5mm hex tool. Use a 5mm hex tool socket and a torque wrench to tighten the generator stator set bolts evenly.

Tightening torque, generator stator set bolts: 8.0 foot lbs.


If you are installing the stator set bolts to an aluminum cover, Apply red loctite #271 to the threads. I suggest 5 foot lbs of torque. Thread locking agent is not recommended in the service manual for the installation of the OEM stator cover.



21. Wipe any oil that may have collected from the sealing surface of the CKP sensor wire grommet.



22. Be sure that the wires coming from the grommet are routed as shown with the wire to the CKP sensor wound behind the wire to the stator.



23. Position the stator wire retainer on top of the stator wire as shown.



24. Press the grommet into the generator cover.



The following pictures show how the wiring is properly routed when the CKP sensor and stator are installed.


The wire from the grommet to the CKP sensor routes under and behind the stator wire.



The wire from the grommet to the stator routes under the CKP sensor and the wire retainer.



The wire retainer holds the stator wire against the inside of the stator cover.


25. Use a plastic ball point pen to help align the bolt holes in the CKP sensor bracket, the stator wire retainer and the threads in the cover.



26. Use a 4mm hex tool to install the CKP sensor mounting bolts to the cover. Use a torque wrench to tighten the CKP sensor mounting bolts.

Tightening torque, CKP sensor mounting bolts: 4.7 foot lbs.




If you are installing the CKP sensor mounting bolts to an aluminum cover, apply red loctite #271 to the threads. I suggest 3.5 foot lbs of torque. Thread locking agent is not recommended in the service manual for the installation of the OEM stator cover.



27. To promote an oil-tight seal, wipe the surface of the engine case that mates to the stator cover. Be especially careful to wipe oil that has collected at the bottom of the engine case.



Use a cloth moistened with denatured alcohol to remove all traces of residue left on the engine case/stator cover surface .



28. Apply a thin layer of 3Bond engine sealant # 1207B (Available online from Moto Guzi Cycles for about $12 ) to the area where the top and bottom engine cases meet.



The area to apply the sealant as indicated in the service manual is shown in green in the pic above.


An artists palette knife works well for spreading the sealant in an even film.





I also spread a test patch on the outside of the engine case to monitor the rate of drying. This stuff seemed to dry tacky in 50 degree F air temp in about an hour. I suggest allowing it to dry as long as possible before running the motor.


29. Press the dowel pin into each side of the engine case.



30. Install a new stator cover gasket to the engine case. They are available online for a couple dollars. The Woodcraft cover comes with a new gasket.





31. Clean the surface of the stator cover that touches the gasket in the same way the engine case was cleaned in step 27.



32. Install the stator cover to the engine case. If you grasp the cover by the lower tabs (shown in step 4 of this tutorial), you will not injure your fingers. However, be advised that the generator rotor will grab the cover out of your fingers and it will pull it to the engine case. Before placing the stator cover on the engine case, visually line up the top bolt holes in the cover to the holes in the engine case. Visually level the logo (if you are installing an aftermarket cover). The cover should mate up to the dowel pins.

The cover went onto the dowel pins crooked leaving a large gap in back by the stator wire grommet.



I used a plastic tool to pry under one of the tabs on the left to seat the cover squarely on the dowel pins.


33. Tighten up the stator cover bolts evenly. No Loctite is necessary but DO torque the stator cover bolts.

Tightening Torque, Generator Cover Bolt: 7.0 foot lbs


The engine block is also aluminum. I usually go a little light in torque on the external bolts. I used about 5 ft lbs of torque.


34. Rout the stator cover wire properly to the inside of the fuel tank compartment.

Routing A, View from outside, left.
The stator cover wire (marked by the blue line) routes FROM the stator cover grommet [grom], under the large corrugated tube [LCor], and inside/under the left hand frame to the generator coupler [blue triangle].



Routing B, View from left side of bike to inside of left frame.
FROM left hand frame. Under the large corrugated tube [LCor], over the clutch line [CL] (i have a yellow aftermarket clutch line on my bike) and under the taped bundle of wires[Tape B].



Routing C, View from left side of bike to bottom of fuel tank compartment.
FROM the left hand frame, under the taped bundle of wires [Tape B] (the thick grey wire next to it is not OEM), under a small corrugated tube [S Cor] where it is fastened to a group of wires with a removable plastic tie [T]. From there, the stator cover wire routes back up toward the inside of the left hand frame to the mating leads of the generator coupler and the CKP sensor coupler (See pics in step 1 of this tutorial).



35. Connect the harnesses to the CKP coupler and the generator coupler.


Lower and fasten the fuel tank (see https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/168658-gen-2-how-remove-fuel-tank.html steps 8, 9, 10 and 11).

Install the left side cowling (https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/127746-gen2-hayabusa-fairing-tutorial-videos-w-pics.html).

Connect battery negative cable with a phillips screwdriver (See “Do Ahead” at the beginning of this tutorial. Reverse of procedure of disconnecting the battery.


Weights



OEM cover with gasket: 15.7 oz



Woodcraft Stator cover with gasket, skid pad and mounting screws: 26.30 oz






Net Weight Gain of 10.60 oz

 

[Mythos]

interesting thing about that Woodcraft cover...it has one bolt hole that has threads in it. The threads are larger than the threads on the screws that go through the bolt holes. The OEM stator cover has no threads in any of the bolt holes.

What is this for? I'm guessing there may be a puller that attaches here somehow? I didn't know there was a special tool to remove the cover. If there is, It would be a good idea to use it if you can get your hands on one.

 

[Mythos]

repost deleted

 

[dadofthree]

 

[cheferman65]

Nice! very through and presented well!

 

[kromdom]

Excellent DIY write up as usual. Thanks a bunch as I have been planning to install a Woodcraft myself

 

[Mythos]

Thanks guys.

Often I think my tutorials make it look harder than it is because there are a lot of pictures. This is really pretty easy. Be careful about the magnetism. NO risk involved with my bike removing the cover. Tthe dowel pins fit so tight that they hold the cover from pulling back against the motor . I held the cover by the lower pull tabs when I installed the Woodcraft and I didn't run into a problem with getting my fingers pinched....but when you get about 1/2 inch all the way around, top to bottom, that generator rotor will snatch it right out of your hands....so try your best to have it lined up right.

 

[pashnit]

Amazing. Wildly detailed. Done this mod a bunch of times! Well done.