Frist Time Changing Brakes




NearDeath

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All,
I am going to be installing my EBC HH pads this week and I am kind of worried over the break-in period after installation. I have many issues with replacing brakes on cars. I generally end up with vibration or glazed brakes.

How can I break my EBC HH pads in correctly and not screw this up?

I have read in previous posts that I should keep her off the highway for 500 miles to break-in the brakes. Can someone give me the easiest and less likely to screw up way to break-in the new pads?

Cloud
 

NearDeath

Donating Member
Registered
I ordered a rear set of EBC HH pads as well, but after reading some of the previous posts, I am wondering if I should put stock rears on and just install HH fronts. Rev, you were the one I am noting that stated to keep the rear week. Any commments opinions on staying with a stock pad on the rear vs. going to a HH pad on the rear?

Cloud
 

zukracer

I'm somewhere but dont know where
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yeah, what he said, only I haven't ordered the pads yet, but I am 90% sure I need to replace mine. I'm also thinking it would be a good time to replace the lines with stainless steel ones, any advice on where to get the pads and lines?

Thanks
Brian

PS. also is it really a "do it yourself" activity or should I pay the ass raping at the dealer?
rock.gif
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
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Initially it was another member who put on some rear HH pads and she was really having problems because it made the rear far to grabby for comfort, she commented that it was way to easy to lock up. Given how easily the rear locks up with the stock pads I cannot imagine gaining anything accept for additional "Oh damn" moments by going to a grippier rear compound.

Did you replace your brake lines yet? It's the lines that will make your brakes "Feel" better, put you more in touch with what them rotor are doin, replacing the pads may improve ultimate stopping power but the feel will prolly not be much improved if your still using the stock lines.

As for break in... I cannot offer a whole lot of insight really, accept for like any other brake system when replacing pads, just sorta take it a little bit easy on them for a couple hundred miles, ensure that they get properly bedded in. Not too complex, just take it a little bit easier, also fresh pads may have a little less "Bite" initially until they get settled in.

Oh and remember to get out there and practice using them fronts in panic situations once those new pads get a few hundred miles on em.
 

NearDeath

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I have the steel lines already front and rear. (previous owner put them on)

I am really tempted to go with a stock pad for the rear if that is the case. I know the rear locks-up easily with stock brakes and I guess I was thinking you would get increased stopping power with the HH pads before rear does lock?

Now thinking about it, you can lock up the front brakes with the stock pads as well. Does this mean that your extra stopping power from HH pads really isn't extra? Sounds like the HH pads will just engage quicker with a lot less force...

Cloud



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Reason for Edit: None given...|1084818244 -->
 

bacharles

Korrup~shun!!
Donating Member
Registered
yeah, what he said, only I haven't ordered the pads yet, but I am 90% sure I need to replace mine.  I'm also thinking it would be a good time to replace the lines with stainless steel ones, any advice on where to get the pads and lines?

Thanks
Brian

PS. also is it really a "do it yourself" activity or should I pay the ass raping at the dealer?
rock.gif
Speaking from one Brian to another. I would suggest doing it yourself. It's very easy to do and if you have help pumping the brakes while you bleed your lines, you can save money. It's a one-man/woman job if you get yourself a MityVac or a speed bleeder. I have a MityVac and that thing works like a charm. The cheapest place I've found so far for stainless braided lines is here. I think I paid about $150 for Goodridge lines all the way around the bike. Hope this helps.



Brian
 



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