For the Royal Purple Users.

mountainmotor

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But how do you know it is PAO base oil for sure?

Mobil refuses to say what it is. If I look at shear results, it makes me wonder, but it could be a cheaper ester package causing more shear than I would like to see.

The MSDS of course. Also easy to see it in the Total Acid Number <TAN> numbers of new oil sampling. < fourier transform infrared spectroscopy> aka FTIR . Esters are acids and the TAN is relative high when tested.

An ester base oil does not have anything to do with shearing or thinning of the oil formulation. Esters are used to balance seal swell when used in polyalphaolefins which lack that ability and helps the solubility of large additive packs and more since they are polar . Some additives used in mineral based oils just are not needed when an ester is around. Pour Point Depressants and other.

That said, the shear or reduction in starting viscosity you are talking about comes from permanent shear of the Viscosity Index Improvers used and most often in motorcycle engines, more fuel is present that the lab results actually show. Fuel in the oil can easily reduce the viscosity and be the culprit even when the lab results still show a high flash point.

BTW , when you see an oil label that says it's ester based , that does not mean the large component of base oil is ester. I see it's becoming somewhat a trend with some foreign made oils.

macon454

181.552 mph Texas mile on a B-King 3/28/09, AKA "C
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Hey James I would not put full Synthetic in your bike on the first oil change, You need to get some more miles on it first, Full Synthetic will not let the rings seat up properly, You need to have a couple thousand miles on it before you put it in, I waited until my third oil change to make sure mine was seated up before I put it in.

Merlot

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Hey James I would not put full Synthetic in your bike on the first oil change, You need to get some more miles on it first, Full Synthetic will not let the rings seat up properly, You need to have a couple thousand miles on it before you put it in, I waited until my third oil change to make sure mine was seated up before I put it in.

Totally agree,use mineral oil will do

2006busa

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so your saying i can use the same mobil 1 oil that i use in my car, in my bike too. or am i understanding this wrong

BA BUSA

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James

Just use dino oil on the first change...then use Mobil 1
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BA BUSA

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Thx for the post and not saying you are wrong about Mobil 1 4T. But how do you know it is PAO base oil for sure?

Mobil refuses to say what it is. If I look at shear results, it makes me wonder, but it could be a cheaper ester package causing more shear than I would like to see.

LOL!!!

You want to debate with Mountainmotor...about oil. He is da man on the org when it comes to oil analysis.

He took a long break from the site, but I'm VERY glad he came back.

The dude knows his chit!
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jellyrug

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Hey James I would not put full Synthetic in your bike on the first oil change, You need to get some more miles on it first, Full Synthetic will not let the rings seat up properly, You need to have a couple thousand miles on it before you put it in, I waited until my third oil change to make sure mine was seated up before I put it in.

It's very hard to drag a knee, if you go to synthetic for your first oil change. Ask me how I know. :laugh:

jellyrug

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LOL!!!

You want to debate with Mountainmotor...about oil. He is da man on the org when it comes to oil analysis.

He took a long break from the site, but I'm VERY glad he came back.

The dude knows his chit!
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You got that right!!!:thumbsup:

twotonevert

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Crap, I already bought the full synthetic.

StwBusa

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The MSDS of course. Also easy to see it in the Total Acid Number <TAN> numbers of new oil sampling. < fourier transform infrared spectroscopy> aka FTIR . Esters are acids and the TAN is relative high when tested.

An ester base oil does not have anything to do with shearing or thinning of the oil formulation. Esters are used to balance seal swell when used in polyalphaolefins which lack that ability and helps the solubility of large additive packs and more since they are polar . Some additives used in mineral based oils just are not needed when an ester is around. Pour Point Depressants and other.

That said, the shear or reduction in starting viscosity you are talking about comes from permanent shear of the Viscosity Index Improvers used and most often in motorcycle engines, more fuel is present that the lab results actually show. Fuel in the oil can easily reduce the viscosity and be the culprit even when the lab results still show a high flash point.

BTW , when you see an oil label that says it's ester based , that does not mean the large component of base oil is ester. I see it's becoming somewhat a trend with some foreign made oils.



Hey Mountain.... Whats your opinion of Motul 300V????:beerchug:

BusaDrew

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I am not set on Royal Purple, its either that or Mobil 1. I just need to know if folks are using regular synthetic or using the motorcycle specific oil.


I've been using Mobile 1 Race(for motorcycles) for about 4 years no problem (same clutches in it when I bought it new) and still shifts smooth
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twotonevert

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I am not set on Royal Purple, its either that or Mobil 1. I just need to know if folks are using regular synthetic or using the motorcycle specific oil.


I've been using Mobile 1 Race(for motorcycles) for about 4 years no problem (same clutches in it when I bought it new) and still shifts smooth
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That is what I purchased. It was the only 10/40 weight they had. Full Synthetic for Motorcycles, not v-twin. Guess I will pick up some regular dino oil today at walmart.

07vigorblue

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I run regular 15W40 RP in my busa. Have don so since first oil change. I have never had any shifting or clutch issues:thumbsup:
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