I reccently bought an 05' Busa from Mountainmotor, I understand you can modify the Buell pegs, but does anybody know of a set you can buy from a manufacturer that lowerss the pegs?? Also anybody have backrest suggestions, I have a seven year old son that rides with me and I would be more comfortable if I had something behind him.
footpegs?????
- Thread starter carter
- Start date
There are some aftermarket pegs (Protek, Competition Werkes, Lockhart Phillips) that give you a little extra legroom and some aftermarket rearsets (Gilles) that will allow you to adjust the position of the pegs. Like others said, Corbin is about the one I know of that makes an aftermarket passenger seat with backrest. Rather expensive though. Welcome to the board.
Actually TL1000 pegs w/spacers bolt right on the Busa and give you an inch extra length to bottom of peg. I had them on before I went to the Buell pegs. The extra 1/2 inch on the Buell pegs made a difference also. Easy to do the TL1000 though. Bob
I just ordered the TLR pegs and have done my research. The TLR peg will give you about 3/4 to an inch of extra room and the peg is the same width as the stock busa peg. Also has a rubber insert. The gixxer peg is just slightly lower than the TLR peg, maybe a 1/4 of an inch, but is half to three quarters of an inch, maybe more, shorter in length. So for my wide a$$ foot I thought the TLR peg would be better for me. If I find a set of the gixxer pegs for cheap I might pick them up and give'em a try.
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buell .........use the search to find several threads on it either here or the sh.org.
25.00 for the pegs ..........the only other pegs that come close to that kind of room are a few hundred dollars.
25.00 for the pegs ..........the only other pegs that come close to that kind of room are a few hundred dollars.
+1Actually TL1000 pegs w/spacers bolt right on the Busa and give you an inch extra length to bottom of peg. I had them on before I went to the Buell pegs. The extra 1/2 inch on the Buell pegs made a difference also. Easy to do the TL1000 though. Bob
I have the TL pegs, made some difference. Couldn't bring myself to put something on the Hayabusa made by "that" company.
The Buell pegs aren't tough to install if you have any ability with tools. If you don't, you HAVE to have a friend who can do this.
1) Remove the old pegs. You will be reusing the pins and clips.
2) The mounting area of the Buell pegs is too thick to fit into the Suzuki mounting boss, so you'll have to make them thinner. I used a bench grinder and took material off the top and bottom a little at a time (they are aluminum, so it comes off easy) until they just fit into the the boss.
3) The hole for the mounting pin in the Buell peg is larger than the Suzuki pin, so bushings must be used. I went to the local Advance Auto Parts store and bought a packet of door hinge pin bushings that were marked "for GM vehicles". I placed one in the top hole of the peg and took more material off the pegs until the peg with bushing would just fit into the boss.
4) Then I used a 3M surface conditioning disc in my air-powered die grinder to smooth the machined surfaces and remove the grinding wheel marks. You could also use a Dremel tool or (perish the thought) fine sandpaper by hand. The extra clearance gained during the polishing process allows the pegs to slip into the bosses easily.
5) Insert another bushing in the bottom hole in the peg, from the top like the upper hole, put the spring in the peg and slide the whole works into the boss. Slip the pin down through the bushings and spring and put the clip on the bottom end of the pin.
You're done! It took me about 45 minutes but I'll bet I could do another set in a half-hour.
You will find that your shifter and brake pedal are too high with your feet on the lower pegs. Both can be adjusted to fit the pegs. And since the Buell pegs reposition your feet outward slightly, you'll find yourself turning your toes inward to shift. I extended my shifter to fit the new pegs.
1) Pop the linkage rod off the shifter and remove the shifter from the pivot on which it mounts.
2) Remove the rubber covering from the rod that your foot contacts and saw off the "nail head" from the end of the rod.
3) I then went to a machine shop and had them weld a 3" length of 1/2" aluminum tubing onto the shifter. The tubing slides over the rod and is welded where it contacts the shifter. My bill to cut the piece from round stock, drill the hole through it and weld it to the shifter was $22.00.
4) Since bare aluminum will discolor your shoes, I bought a length of 5/8" clear plastic tubing (which has an inside diameter of 1/2", so it fits over the extended shifter rod perfectly) from Home Depot, slid it over the aluminum tubing and trimmed it flush with the end of the tubing.
5) Reinstall the modified shifter.
Unless you hardly lean your Busa over at all, you'll probably want to unscrew the "feelers" from the new pegs, as they will be contacting the pavement often. They make a huge difference in comfort and when used with higher, flatter bars (I have HeliBars on top of a 3/4" Genmar riser) and a lower seat (mine are Tobins), they complete a package of mods that really reconfigure a Hayabusa into a great sport-touring bike.
Ed
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1) Remove the old pegs. You will be reusing the pins and clips.
2) The mounting area of the Buell pegs is too thick to fit into the Suzuki mounting boss, so you'll have to make them thinner. I used a bench grinder and took material off the top and bottom a little at a time (they are aluminum, so it comes off easy) until they just fit into the the boss.
3) The hole for the mounting pin in the Buell peg is larger than the Suzuki pin, so bushings must be used. I went to the local Advance Auto Parts store and bought a packet of door hinge pin bushings that were marked "for GM vehicles". I placed one in the top hole of the peg and took more material off the pegs until the peg with bushing would just fit into the boss.
4) Then I used a 3M surface conditioning disc in my air-powered die grinder to smooth the machined surfaces and remove the grinding wheel marks. You could also use a Dremel tool or (perish the thought) fine sandpaper by hand. The extra clearance gained during the polishing process allows the pegs to slip into the bosses easily.
5) Insert another bushing in the bottom hole in the peg, from the top like the upper hole, put the spring in the peg and slide the whole works into the boss. Slip the pin down through the bushings and spring and put the clip on the bottom end of the pin.
You're done! It took me about 45 minutes but I'll bet I could do another set in a half-hour.
You will find that your shifter and brake pedal are too high with your feet on the lower pegs. Both can be adjusted to fit the pegs. And since the Buell pegs reposition your feet outward slightly, you'll find yourself turning your toes inward to shift. I extended my shifter to fit the new pegs.
1) Pop the linkage rod off the shifter and remove the shifter from the pivot on which it mounts.
2) Remove the rubber covering from the rod that your foot contacts and saw off the "nail head" from the end of the rod.
3) I then went to a machine shop and had them weld a 3" length of 1/2" aluminum tubing onto the shifter. The tubing slides over the rod and is welded where it contacts the shifter. My bill to cut the piece from round stock, drill the hole through it and weld it to the shifter was $22.00.
4) Since bare aluminum will discolor your shoes, I bought a length of 5/8" clear plastic tubing (which has an inside diameter of 1/2", so it fits over the extended shifter rod perfectly) from Home Depot, slid it over the aluminum tubing and trimmed it flush with the end of the tubing.
5) Reinstall the modified shifter.
Unless you hardly lean your Busa over at all, you'll probably want to unscrew the "feelers" from the new pegs, as they will be contacting the pavement often. They make a huge difference in comfort and when used with higher, flatter bars (I have HeliBars on top of a 3/4" Genmar riser) and a lower seat (mine are Tobins), they complete a package of mods that really reconfigure a Hayabusa into a great sport-touring bike.
Ed
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Reason for Edit: None given...|1126033214 -->
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