Ever had one of those moments

[Elganja]

Yeah... a buddy and me had that yesterday.

My new sprocket came in the yesterday so off I was to install it...Already had the stock one out. The new one went in with out any issues to my surprise after reading some horror stories on here. Had the bike in 1st, and the rear brake was pressed down.

I hadn't gotten the sprocket cover back on yet but wanted to clean up a little bit under/around the bike. I asked my buddy to roll my bike forward to gain access under it... well I did not think about it at the time nor did he. But he pressed the clutch lever in to move the bike. Wouldn't move so he did it again a couple times and POP.

At the time I was thinking to myself... WTF happened. what the hell did I do?

Then it all came to me as clutch fluid from the piston was dripping out. I wanted to smack myself in the head so hard after that. Basically the equivalent of taking a brake caliper off and squeezing the brake over and over. What moron would do that

It was a bloody mess to clean up. I couldn't get it to compress back in no matter how tight I was turning the c-clamp. It probably is a 100% better that I am replacing it along with the metal piece that sits inside next to the piston (this is the part that popped so to speak).

Now I will miss going to the track on Friday to try out my new sprocket and I'll also miss Rolling Thunder in DC this Sunday as I wait for parts to arrive.

Anyways, hope others can learn from this... when the front sprocket cover is off FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO NOT TOUCH THE CLUTCH LEVER.

 

[mountainmotor]

Just a tip .

Pull the clutch lever fully to the bar grip and zip-tie it whenever removing the sprocket cover .

If the piston ever does come out,the bleeder valve must be opened to push it back in . No C clamp needed .

 

[Elganja]

Just a tip .

Pull the clutch lever fully to the bar grip and zip-tie it whenever removing the sprocket cover .

If the piston ever does come out,the bleeder valve must be opened to push it back in . No C clamp needed .

I'm a little confused why you would push the clutch all the way in before you start? I would think that is what you want to avoid? Or are you just saying if you do this, then when you do take it off it will be easy to push the piston back in with the bleeder valve open?

I'm pretty sure I was beyond help already when it "popped" and fluid came out. Opening up the bleeder valve and trying to squeeze it back in was my first though with no luck

Yesterday I pretty much just failed hardcore

The manual should also mention something about not touching the clutch lever even though it is sort of common sense. I know for the rear wheel removal is specifically spells out DO NOT TOUCH THE REAR BRAKE.

Ugh... should of, would of, could of

 

[mountainmotor]

The whole idea is to not have to even touch the bleeder and have the cover just slip right back on  , then cut the nylon zip tie and it's a done deal . The piston stays in place this way .



""I'm a little confused why you would push the clutch all the way in before you start? I would think that is what you want to avoid? Or are you just saying if you do this, then when you do take it off it will be easy to push the piston back in with the bleeder valve open?
""

 

[Elganja]

The whole idea is to not have to even touch the bleeder and have the cover just slip right back on , then cut the nylon zip tie and it's a done deal . The piston stays in place this way .



""I'm a little confused why you would push the clutch all the way in before you start? I would think that is what you want to avoid? Or are you just saying if you do this, then when you do take it off it will be easy to push the piston back in with the bleeder valve open?
""

Gotcha. I'll keep that in mind for the future, that is for sure.

Thanks for the tip

 

[Spudley]

Oh heck, GOD already knows the Spud can be an idiot !!!!

 

[NCpanther01]

Huh!! I'm missing something here. Are you both agreeing that it's better to zip tie the clutch when installing a front sprocket. Or just because you're taking of the front sprocket cover?

 

[Elganja]

Huh!! I'm missing something here. Are you both agreeing that it's better to zip tie the clutch when installing a front sprocket. Or just because you're taking of the front sprocket cover?

If I understand correctly, what mountainmotor is saying is:

-you can zip tie it down before you take the sprocket cover off and be good to go.
-on the other hand, you can also leave it out and just NOT TOUCH IT AT ALL.

mountainmotor correct me if I have mis-spoken.

 

[Mr Bogus]

not sure why the c-clamp at all.... with the clutch lever released, the piston should slide freely.. When I had my cover off I pulled the piston to flush the system out, slid it all back together and bled it.. took maybe 3 or 4 minutes?

there is a relief port that should be wide open with the lever released is all.. if it is not, there is something wrong.. you are going to more than likely damage the seal on the piston if you need a clamp (same type of seal used in automatic transmission packs)

 

[JusPlaynBob]

I've had one of "Those" moments.

Put on set of Pazzo levers.
Put the bike up on stands.
Took twenty minutes to put the new levers on.
Tried to start the bike. Pulled in the clutch. No nothing.
Oops. Put it in neutral. Ahh there. starts
Pulled in the clutch drop it in gear....shuts off.
Checked the cable.
Looked at the clutch lever switch. Took it off. checked the polarity.
Pulled the front sprocket cover off to check the cable.
Spent a hour scratching my head.
All I did was put on levers.....

Lift up kick stand.

 

[Elganja]

not sure why the c-clamp at all.... with the clutch lever released, the piston should slide freely.. When I had my cover off I pulled the piston to flush the system out, slid it all back together and bled it.. took maybe 3 or 4 minutes?

there is a relief port that should be wide open with the lever released is all.. if it is not, there is something wrong.. you are going to more than likely damage the seal on the piston if you need a clamp (same type of seal used in automatic transmission packs)

The piston would not and will not move at all. It was as if it was seized. In any case I am replacing it, it's rather cheap (only 60 bucks).

Are you saying the piston should come out all the way? If so that is interesting... i don't know how mine is "stuck" then.

 

[Mr Bogus]

either the piston is "cocked" sideways or the seal is folded (and now damaged) unless the piston or bore are damaged, that you should not need anymore than the new seal... they use a "lip" style seal that needs to me massaged into the bore (I used my fingers to depress the lip and slid the thing into the bore)

the piston should come out all the way (and rather easily at that)

to remove it, open the bleeder and refill the clutch system, bleed it, and pump it a few times and "hydraulic" the piston out of the bore and inspect closely...

 

[Aen]

I don't know jack about maintenance, but I have had those moments.

Once, when I was exiting I-49, I coasted down to the stop sign so I could rest my right hand after a while of riding. I stop and attempt to take off, get a little ways forward, but no power is comming out and it dies. It turns out that taking off in 6th is not the best idea :E

 

[Elganja]

either the piston is "cocked" sideways or the seal is folded (and now damaged) unless the piston or bore are damaged, that you should not need anymore than the new seal... they use a "lip" style seal that needs to me massaged into the bore (I used my fingers to depress the lip and slid the thing into the bore)

the piston should come out all the way (and rather easily at that)

to remove it, open the bleeder and refill the clutch system, bleed it, and pump it a few times and "hydraulic" the piston out of the bore and inspect closely...

you are the man Mr. Bogus.

It was cocked just a little bit. I was able to straighten it up push it in with my fingers and reinstall everything.

thanks for your help!

 

[sideswipe]

Does this mean you will be able to make your weekend events?? =)