Engine bolt kit?
- Thread starter RBSUZUKI
- Start date
c10
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Mythos
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ProBolts is what I have always used and aluminum AMAP. For things that are load bearing or high torque, go with Ti but get ready to spend big. Aluminum works just fine for most things including engine covers. I torque aluminum about 1/2 ~ 2/3 of spec. Check them often for a while but I never had one come out except on fairings (on my ZX-14). Correction!!!! had the rear rotor bolts come way loose and they were Ti and torqued but not to spec. i have gotten in the habit of undertorquing almost everything except internal stuff to save threads and I use locktite where necessary---worked on the rotor bolts.
My 14 has all aluminum bolts for engine covers. I have not done the oil pan yet but intend to. I use the copper anti-seize PB includes and I never have had an engine cover bolt come loose.
Ti is half the weight of stock steel (stainless should be a gram or two heavier than ordinary steel).
Aluminum is one quarter the weight of steel but threads strip easier thus the hait of under-torquing.
Never had a problem with steel bolts corroding from reaction to aluminum parts but they say it happens. Aluminum to aluminum---no chem reaction.
Fancy bolts are addicting. I'm just warning you. I have a thousand bucks worth on my 14. I haven't added up the weightloss yet but I imagine it's just a pound or two.
My 14 has all aluminum bolts for engine covers. I have not done the oil pan yet but intend to. I use the copper anti-seize PB includes and I never have had an engine cover bolt come loose.
Ti is half the weight of stock steel (stainless should be a gram or two heavier than ordinary steel).
Aluminum is one quarter the weight of steel but threads strip easier thus the hait of under-torquing.
Never had a problem with steel bolts corroding from reaction to aluminum parts but they say it happens. Aluminum to aluminum---no chem reaction.
Fancy bolts are addicting. I'm just warning you. I have a thousand bucks worth on my 14. I haven't added up the weightloss yet but I imagine it's just a pound or two.
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi. I have Ti bolts for all high stressed bolts the motor mounts and shock mount and rear shock ti spring was $1450.00.ProBolts is what I have always used and aluminum AMAP. For things that are load bearing or high torque, go with Ti but get ready to spend big. Aluminum works just fine for most things including engine covers. I torque aluminum about 1/2 ~ 2/3 of spec. Check them often for a while but I never had one come out except on fairings (on my ZX-14). Correction!!!! had the rear rotor bolts come way loose and they were Ti and torqued but not to spec. i have gotten in the habit of undertorquing almost everything except internal stuff to save threads and I use locktite where necessary---worked on the rotor bolts.
My 14 has all aluminum bolts for engine covers. I have not done the oil pan yet but intend to. I use the copper anti-seize PB includes and I never have had an engine cover bolt come loose.
Ti is half the weight of stock steel (stainless should be a gram or two heavier than ordinary steel).
Aluminum is one quarter the weight of steel but threads strip easier thus the hait of under-torquing.
Never had a problem with steel bolts corroding from reaction to aluminum parts but they say it happens. Aluminum to aluminum---no chem reaction.
Fancy bolts are addicting. I'm just warning you. I have a thousand bucks worth on my 14. I haven't added up the weightloss yet but I imagine it's just a pound or two.
ali123
Banned
ure losing control Michael....
michael parris heuberger
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HI ali123. Ya I know I guess by the time i am done I will be in it for $80,000.00
ali123
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my concern wouldn't be solely the amount.. but the TIME all this takes... I would be losing my mind.
ali123
Banned
I was really hoping to ride with ya this summer.... that would be cool....
michael parris heuberger
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Hi ali123 I know what you mean but I am old all I have is time. The days are long but years are short!
ali123
Banned
lol.. my doctor tells me I might not make 60....so I got less than 30 summers left... but I dunno... there was a time I didn't expect to make 30.
I had the impression that you had to be in your early 20s and relatively fresh out of the academy.
ali123
Banned
ure straight up trollin now.... same poop u blast me for... admit it man.. u LIKE having me here... I'm 35.... started LE when I was 23... 12 years in the pen.. a max.. so talk all the talk u want.... I earned my rep.I had the impression that you had to be in your early 20s and relatively fresh out of the academy.
Mythos
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ali123
Banned
lol.. how much u think just an ohlins or NLR shock would be.... it NEVER ends in the hunt for big power...
Busashot
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I have $1500 total with combination of Pro-bolt Ti and Alum fasteners. As said earlier, anything that is load bearing or hanging weight, use Ti. All other parts I used aluminum. Aluminum on most of these bolts are actually lighter than Ti. I use the anti-seize on both but also use a tad blue loctite or the green loctite on aluminum. Once a few heat cycles the aluminum will be fine for awhile before re-checking. All of the bolts on the Gen I from body panels to everything else, I save a tad over 4lbs.
. How much do you weigh? Or how much could you afford to lose?Similar threads
