Do I need a new cush drive? Viedo inside

[pashnit]

So to check the bearing I'd see if it has play when I have it apart?

Yes. Big, we all seem to be thinking it's your outer bearing: #15 in the Bike Bandit schematic you linked. Again, it's a $36 part, so even if you are wrong, didn't waste much money troubleshooting.

To test the bearing, just use your fingers when it's apart (like in the pic above). Stick your fingers in there and rotate the inner ring. Then see if you have any wiggle to is. There should zero wiggle on that, plus if you have any sensation of grating or metal on metal inside the bearing, toss it.

I replaced my fronts at about 60K, when we took the old bearing out, it completely fell apart as we took it out. Not good.

 

[pashnit]

Cush Drives are a different sensation. I replaced mine at about 50K on my '00. While accelerating or decelerating, there was too much play in the rear wheel. Adjusting the chain didn't remove the play, so the cush drives were the next culprit to look at.

Cush Drives are those blue bumper thingys in the picture above & should be replaced at regular intervals.

Gen-I & Gen-II use different rims, so they are different between the bikes. All 99-07 are same.

 

[bigwake]

Cush Drives are a different sensation. I replaced mine at about 50K on my '00. While accelerating or decelerating, there was too much play in the rear wheel. Adjusting the chain didn't remove the play, so the cush drives were the next culprit to look at.

Cush Drives are those blue bumper thingys in the picture above & should be replaced at regular intervals.

Gen-I & Gen-II use different rims, so they are different between the bikes. All 99-07 are same.

I was able to get a cheap rear stand and took the rear wheel off. Here's what I found. Is it just worn out from 20,000 miles and possibly the very tight chain I had to loosen upon purchase? Or is there something else that would cause this? I had both spacers in there and I checked the bearings both in the wheel and the carrier and they were tight. I really appreciate all the help from you guys here on the forum because I really wanted to know if that wobble I had was normal and by you all telling me it wasn't, I was able to find my issue. Pashnit what cushes do you have available and for what price shipped to FL 33026? I'm looking online and found some 'high performance' cush set for $50+shipping but someone complained about them on a forum (a clunky noise) but what do you or anyone else suggest I go with? Thanks again everyone for the help.

 

[bigwake]

The second is the inside of the carrier...you could probably use a large socket and force it out (hammer / a vice / arbor press) whatever works. If you don't have a rear stand you could use jack stands and put a pipe through the swing arm pivot hole....or straps to a sturdy point above the bike...if you go that route make sure the bike is pretty well tied down because when you take the wheel off it might want to swing around

My bearing looks good and you can see the damage to the cush rubbers in the post above this one. Would you recommend the aftermarket 'high performance' cush rubber that are around $50+shipping? I see your pic has some so do you like them for street use? My bike won't be raced or anything other than cruising. Thanks

 

[Spkrdctr]

Pashnit will hook you up.

 

[HERO TANK]

ok i think im having the same problem my cush rubbers look just like those above would they cause the sproket to shift enough for the chain to rub the tire and for the wheel to wobble????????????

 

[HERO TANK]

ok i think im having the same problem my cush rubbers look just like those above would they cause the sproket to shift enough for the chain to rub the tire and for the wheel to wobble????????????

can anyone plz answer this for me so i can ride

 

[HERO TANK]

:bump:

 

[skydivr]

Why would anything be touching the cush drive rubbers to make them be scuffed up in that circular pattern? I don't even see how that would happen unless a spacer was missing, but obviously there is that much movement as tension is applied to the spocket that the scuffing occurs.

I had some aftermarket drive rubbers, but I was not successful in using them. They were just a little thicker than the OEM's and I could not for the life of me get the wheel back on after using them; so I went back to the OEMs.

 

[Kildore]

Tim is awesome.