Cush drive slop/Clutch bleed

bobber

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Ive noticed that the brake fluid in My master cylinder for the clutch is getting darker than the front brake cylinder [thru window] They used to be symmetric,,,I know it takes dot #4,,,,there is a comprssion device sold at the dealership to facilitate with this,,its hard to pump up the clutch , as if you were going to bleed the brakes on a car,,because the clutch bottoms out down at the motor,,,,So tech buddies,,how do I change the clutch fluid without getting any air in the line ? I do appreciate the advice,,Tricky to do when you cant build pressure,,I'd like to do it useing what I have at the house without buying a high priced device that I;ll probually only use once or twice,,Ideas?
2nd,,,,Cush drive play,I had 2 new tires put on at a dealership about 3 weeks ago..I asked the mechanic to let me know how the cush pads looked,,,well after he was done,i went back to ask him because he didnt offer the info,,and when i did,,he paused,then said,,yeah,,they looked good,,,,,,Ok,,, I noticed b4 I took it there ,I layed on the leftside of the bike ,grabbed the sprocket at the 9 and 3 oclock postion and turned,,, the sprocket[ hub] about 1/4 ich front wards and backwards...so 1/4 slop,,and pushed it in and pulled it out teloscopicly about 1/4 to 7/16 of an inch,,,,,,,,whats allowable,,and when do you know is too much,,i was told that 1/4 was safe,,but ,,I;d rather hear it here,,,,,,[note] I dont have any noises, clunking.. banging ect,,,,just when i do maintance ,,I had a look,,,,thanks,,,,,,,,ps,,,,while Im asking,,,what about the back cylinder bleed ? I can probually pump that up ?
 
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Just open the valve and let it drain while making sure you keep the reservoir full. When the fluid shows clear tighten the valve.

IMO: If it is not difficult to install the cush drive, it is time to replace the rubber dampers. Neither generation manuals lists a spec. Basically say replace if worn or damaged.
 
Good advice professor,,Sounds like a 2 man job,,makes sense,,just keep the master cylinder full as it drains,,good deal,,and ridge,,,,define FALLING out,,,,do you mean a little slop teloscopically,,while pushing the hub,in and out ?, And does the 1/4 inch play front and back sound normal?,,,,,And the front and rear brakes,,,just bleed them like a car,,pumping them up and holding then down, fill ,Then Bleed ,,then on the brake and pump them up again Until all the old fluid is out ? ??
 
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lean the wheel over or pick it up with the cush drive down, if it falls out they are worn. and seen you talking about the red sensei drive rubbers, those are real tight and even when replacing mine with 2500 miles i could tell a difference.
 
My wheel is still on the bike,,,Im going to buy a set,,ive got 8700 on the bike,,factory cush drive rubbers,,,,,,,I was just wondering,,one tech said 1/4 in and out was ok and left to right was ok,,,Is this corect,,I can [ while its still on the bike /chain and all,,,,push in and out 1/4 inch and left and right 1/4.......no noise,,,but ? whats the verdict ? I know the red ones are a bear to put in and was told zero slop,,longer lasting,,but a little slop in OEm,,,,? whats you take on this,,,
 
i dont see how your swingarm is torqued and your pulling the sprocket in and out at all?? just a point of view from me, the more play, the more wear your putting on your parts.
 
b4 the tires were put on,,I could grab the sprocket and turn left and right 1/4 inch,,,and push and pull telescopicly [ in and out] 1/4 inch,,,,,,Sprocket and hub,,,sprcoket itself wasnt leaveing the hub,,,it was the hub that was in/out.......I check right now,,c u in 3 minutes,,,,,,,,And will the brake fluid gravity feed down without pressure as the professor said when I open the bleeder ?
 
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cush drive tight,,wasnt b4 thr tires were put on,,,last5 kid to put a tire on probually didnt tighten it right,,,,feels real good now,,,,How about the clutch bleed,,,when you open the bleeder at the bottom with the cap of,,will it drain? cars ussualy dont do this,,,will the clutch bleed ,gravity wise or not ??
 
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