Crank sensor position adjustment???

[psycobusa]

anybody heard of this?? i read somewhere that hot starting problems are linked to too much of a gap between the crank sensor and the pick up.

i someone has heard of this, then how do you adjust it?
im kinda thinking it may be linked to my problem...check it out


ive been having a problem with my busa....its seems to happen when it decides it wants to, but sometimes when im doing about 80 or 90..i think thats about 4.5 - 5k rpms... my bike just sporadically cuts off (rpm guage goes to zero but all other guages still work) and then starts right back up (rpm guage comes back online) it will do this back and forth back and forth and so on (bike steadilly lunging foward from killing and then lunging back from starting again so rapidly time after time) and the FI light will stay on.........now then what ive figured out is that when this starts happening at 90mph or so, i can flip the engine kill switch off and then flip it back on within a sec or so. when i do that, the FI light goes off and the jerking problems cease for a mile or so, then it will do the same routine again....for some reason it only does it when i get to high speeds....if i slow to 30-50, it doesnt do it.

i thought it might be fuel system related but ive been through the whole system....all filters, no kinked lines, plenty in tank.

the thing that gets me is that if it WAS fuel starvation....why does the rpm guage go instantly to zero....it cant be...if it starved then the rpm guage would only slowly descend with engine speed...or am i wrong....does the rpm guage kill when the engine kills even though the key is still on and bike is engine braking from 90mph on down?

for some unknown reason the engine and rpm guage (not the electrical system) are fully shutting down at high speed and then instantly restarting...

ive explained this problem as thoroughly and best i can...if you dont understand something just ask and ill explain....this problem is royally ticking me off

 

[PACIFICBUSA]

I didn't see anythin mentioned about the fuel system electronics. Mebbe a loose connection? Bad lines? Check the tip-over switch...or the fuel relay. It could also be somethin about the pump.

That's all I can think of for now.

 

[psycobusa]

anybody else???

 

[BusaCruise]

take out the PCII and the air shifter (if there's a kill for the ign.) and see if the problem still persists.

That's really the first step.

 

[psycobusa]

i was thinking the kill box on the airshifter also but i unplugged it...to no effect....havent messed with the pc2

 

[moondog]

Negative....the crank position sensor (CKP) detects pulses from the stator rotor (heartbeat of the engine). This signal, along with the cam sensor pulse provides the ecm with the physical orientation of the cam and crank. If the signal is lost, the engine will shut down immediately and will not restart. Error code is C12. The loss of the cam sensor (CMP) pulse will not shut the engine down but once shut off, she ain't restarting untill the signal is restored. Error code would be C11. I'll bet it is in your pc or air shifter, unplug, back to basics...start over. What codes is it throwing?

 

[psycobusa]

ill have to wait for it to throw a code again because when i flip the engine kill switch off and back on the FI light goes out...same when i turn the key.

 

[Sloto200]

sounds like a bad connection somewhere...maybe even corrosion build up on one or more of your connections or like they said... the PCII could be going out... those cause funny things to happen when they die

 

[moondog]

OK, I've been thinking about this....if it only happens at speed, it has to be connection related electrical. Something is moving. Sounds like you may be loosing ground somewhere in the system, check all grounding points. Hell, if you can flip the kill switch and make it come back, I'd start there....however, I have seen a pc really screw a system up, so that's an easy check. You really need a code because there is six additional sensors besides cam and crank that could be going bad. Most of then would simply screw up the info going to the ecm (screwing up fueling and ignition timing compensations) but the loss of total signal from one of the six might mess things up to where she'd quit, I suppose. But, since the "dang thang" stops like you hit the kill switch, almost has to be the total loss of curcuit. Damn, where's J. Cheese when you need him.....he'd know.

 

[psycobusa]

im gonna try to get it back together by tonight....ill ride it as much as i can tomorrow and seen if it does it again, this time ill be prepared....carrying my trusty paperclip with me

when the fi light comes on, ill pull over and check it on the spot.

 

[jdevarie]

Could it be that you are loosing oil pressure? It is funny that it happens at that speed only. If it were electrical I would expect at any time regardless of the speed.

my $0.02

 

[05HayabusaR&B]

I would have to say a bad Ground or loose hot wire that at the 4.5 to 5000 rpm the resulting harmonics are causing the loose wire to viberate and this would result in the Tach going back to 0 and the engine dying.. the tach wire is the one I would check, along it's full length.. also the coil connections.

 

[psycobusa]

checked every connection under the tank area...pulled plugs, measured gap....perfect gap and burn. i unplugged the pc2 and took a good look at the wires...nothing abnormal...reinstalled it. put it all back together along with my new msd rpm selector for the auto shift. went on the backroad and did some high rpm runs, bike ran great. dont like the msd rpm selector....when it autoshifts, the kill time is too long...no matter how much i adjust it on the box. if i shift with the horn button, the kill time is just right. think ill continue to use the horn button and order a shift light. other than that, ill just have to continue to ride the bike untill it decides it wants to act up again. it took over a full tank of gas before it acted up on me the first time.