CR question.

Maybe a conversation with Rob @Boosted Cycle Perf is in order. Perhaps he can help you achieve your goals within budget....
HI. Thank you. I think Rob is a very smart man. I think he thinks out side the box too. Like I try to do. I also think bikes have fallen way behind the cars in tech. I would love to use a 3 turbo set up and 112lbs of boost. I have said in the past that the Busa motor should be able to make 1200 to 1500 HP and 16000 RPM+. Now getting the power to the ground is another problem. I look for input from anyone who knows what they are doing. I do have great people helping world record holders, many times world champs great companies that also go out of there way to help like Webb Cams. But then I an my own worst enemy I try to push so far beyond the limits. I am just a old disabled vet who works two jobs to try to reach my last dream.
 
Mike, don't sell yourself short. You're an inspiration to us all, I admire your dedication to your dream. I think collaborating with Rob and others like him will help you realize that dream sooner and cheaper.
Hi. THANK YOU again. I want an F1 motor in the Busa. That is the way I think. I was a crew member on a Pro Stock car in the 60s. We were runner up to Bob Glidden one time too. I also ran my F 5000 car in the 70s. I also was manager of a speed shop in the 80s I helped set 54 NHRA records. I hate to type my E Mail is vn66676869@aol,com my phone # is 508-496-5680. I live deep into the woods so service is bad, so if you call and I can nor answer tex I will call back when I can. I do not know why people do not like to talk in person anymore.
 
Hi. THANK YOU again. I want an F1 motor in the Busa. That is the way I think. I was a crew member on a Pro Stock car in the 60s. We were runner up to Bob Glidden one time too. I also ran my F 5000 car in the 70s. I also was manager of a speed shop in the 80s I helped set 54 NHRA records. I hate to type my E Mail is vn66676869@aol,com my phone # is 508-496-5680. I live deep into the woods so service is bad, so if you call and I can nor answer tex I will call back when I can. I do not know why people do not like to talk in person anymore.

If you gave me $100k and your bike, I’d give you back an 800-1000hp street bike and $30-40k back.

You say you want to go 280 in the mile, and get in to the 6’s in the 1/4. To reach those goals, chassis wise you’re going to have a hard time reaching either of those. You kinda need to pick a direction and go with it with the goals you have set.

I looked over your build and it’s still a stock frame rail frame. That being said, it’s much more Realistic to hit your 280mph goal on a stock frame rail bike. Although you’ll find your swing arm is too long for mile racing.

On the other hand getting in to the 6s on a stock frame busa may be nearly impossible. I won’t say completely impossible because of how far suspension, clutches, and boost control has advanced over the last few years. But highly unlikely.

The fastest I’ve ever seen a stock frame busa go was 7.7x’s. When I had my turbo gen 1, it was like I hit a wall once I hit 7.80s. I had to HP to go faster but I was chassis limited. I couldn’t leave the line any harder because it would wheelie even with the bike slammed, and 10 over arm. Throwing more power at it going down the track kept the front wheel off the ground for most the pass.

So for me to go faster I was going to have to at a minimum do a cut rail frame, but also short neck it as well. Cut rails lowers you down in to the bike, but also moves you forward almost 10 inches so you’re basically sitting over the top of the transmission. Short necking with deraked triples allows you to slam the front of the bike, and the offset clams move the front wheelback closer to the engine. This moves the weight bias even more to the front of the bike.

All those frame mods make the bike unusable on the street. And that chassis set up doesn’t transfer over well in to land speed racing.

Thats why I say you need to pick a direction and run with it.
 
If you gave me $100k and your bike, I’d give you back an 800-1000hp street bike and $30-40k back.

You say you want to go 280 in the mile, and get in to the 6’s in the 1/4. To reach those goals, chassis wise you’re going to have a hard time reaching either of those. You kinda need to pick a direction and go with it with the goals you have set.

I looked over your build and it’s still a stock frame rail frame. That being said, it’s much more Realistic to hit your 280mph goal on a stock frame rail bike. Although you’ll find your swing arm is too long for mile racing.

On the other hand getting in to the 6s on a stock frame busa may be nearly impossible. I won’t say completely impossible because of how far suspension, clutches, and boost control has advanced over the last few years. But highly unlikely.

The fastest I’ve ever seen a stock frame busa go was 7.7x’s. When I had my turbo gen 1, it was like I hit a wall once I hit 7.80s. I had to HP to go faster but I was chassis limited. I couldn’t leave the line any harder because it would wheelie even with the bike slammed, and 10 over arm. Throwing more power at it going down the track kept the front wheel off the ground for most the pass.

So for me to go faster I was going to have to at a minimum do a cut rail frame, but also short neck it as well. Cut rails lowers you down in to the bike, but also moves you forward almost 10 inches so you’re basically sitting over the top of the transmission. Short necking with deraked triples allows you to slam the front of the bike, and the offset clams move the front wheelback closer to the engine. This moves the weight bias even more to the front of the bike.

All those frame mods make the bike unusable on the street. And that chassis set up doesn’t transfer over well in to land speed racing.

Thats why I say you need to pick a direction and run with it.
Hi THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH.
 
Hi THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH.
Hi. YOURE WELCOME!

This is my grudge bike. It’s a cut rail and short necked frame with deraked triple trees. No room for a radiator, and you can see how far forward you sit. Not a street bike at all.

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Hi. YOURE WELCOME!

This is my grudge bike. It’s a cut rail and short necked frame with deraked triple trees. No room for a radiator, and you can see how far forward you sit. Not a street bike at all.

View attachment 1607523

View attachment 1607524

View attachment 1607525

View attachment 1607526
Hi. That is one H of a good looking bike! I am short necking and raking now. I need to go + 5 degrees to clear the turbo it may be a Garrett 4202 I will also have to cut out the under neck frame braces to make room for the charge pipe. Land Speed is #1 and street is #2 drags just fun. I have a 6 to 12 over arm I have been 7.7 at 163 back in the 80s on a 1460 GPZ. Also been 6.07 in an Alcohol Corvette Funny Car. Also went over 200 in Daytona in my F5000 Lola T142. My head is done. I am working on getting the rods now Carrillo. What is a good to call.
 
Hi. YOURE WELCOME!

This is my grudge bike. It’s a cut rail and short necked frame with deraked triple trees. No room for a radiator, and you can see how far forward you sit. Not a street bike at all.

View attachment 1607523

View attachment 1607524

View attachment 1607525

View attachment 1607526
Hi. What
Hi. YOURE WELCOME!

This is my grudge bike. It’s a cut rail and short necked frame with deraked triple trees. No room for a radiator, and you can see how far forward you sit. Not a street bike at all.

View attachment 1607523

View attachment 1607524

View attachment 1607525

View attachment 1607526
HI. What year is the Fox body Mustang? We had an 1980 up dated to a 1990 body style. In NHRA we set both ends of a Super Stock record and won an national event. I crewed on a NHRA Pro Stock team and we were runner up to Bob Glidden.
 
The fastest I’ve ever seen a stock frame busa go was 7.7x’s. When I had my turbo gen 1, it was like I hit a wall once I hit 7.80s. I had to HP to go faster but I was chassis limited. I couldn’t leave the line any harder because it would wheelie even with the bike slammed, and 10 over arm. Throwing more power at it going down the track kept the front wheel off the ground for most the pass.

So for me to go faster I was going to have to at a minimum do a cut rail frame, but also short neck it as well. Cut rails lowers you down in to the bike, but also moves you forward almost 10 inches so you’re basically sitting over the top of the transmission. Short necking with deraked triples allows you to slam the front of the bike, and the offset clams move the front wheelback closer to the engine. This moves the weight bias even more to the front of the bike.

All those frame mods make the bike unusable on the street. And that chassis set up doesn’t transfer over well in to land speed racing.

Thats why I say you need to pick a direction and run with it.
I've been 7.64 on my stock frame bike at 68", no offset trees That's with a 1441 and 80 hp of nitrous, on the rev limiter (nitrous off) in 5th gear. Add a couple hundred hp to the back half and who knows ...
I'm sure not the fastest guy out there.
 
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