Clutch issues

Nitro Hippy

Registered
Here is what is going on with the clutch. I took the bike over to the shop I work at and we proceeded to change the clutch and the oil. Once we got it apart we found that EBC doesn't include any steels with their kits. just fibers and springs. My boss, after having inspected the clutch that was there, said that it really didn't need to be changed just yet. Took the steels out and resurfaced then and reinstalled the old clutch with the new springs.
The reason the clutch was being changed in the first place is because I was having trouble getting the bike into 5th and 6th from time to time. So we put the bike back together, filled it with 15w 50. and I rode off. On the way home I noticed that it wasn't disengaging when the clutch was pulled in. It would travel 100 yards or so before it would slip and disengage. I called my boss. He said it was most likely the slave cylinder. I purchased a new one. We installed it and pumped in new dot 4 fluid. I rode home. Still no clutch. We figured that it might have not been bled enough with the vac bleeder so I tried again Thursday to re-bleed it. The results were the same. This time we pulled about 12-18 oz of new fluid threw the system using his air compressor and a vac system. Still the same.
When I take off the oil cap and look in while pulling in the clutch, I see that the plates are moving almost a 1/16th of an inch.
I changed the oil back to 10w40 and it got somewhat better but is once again acting worse. This has now become a month long ordeal to get my bike running correctly.
Well that is where I am at with it. Any Ideas?
 
Bump

I really could use any ideas there are. This is my only transport atm. I am really stuck as to what could be causing this.

Thanks again,
Mike
 
Im having the same problem with mine... any ideas guys? I remember something about a rod that pushes the clutch off the slave cylinder getting dirty, I could be wrong that was from years ago.... I also have my clutch lever adjusted to give the max push length.. ???
 
Did you mesure your stack height? What did you do to resurface the steel?? That is prolly your problem..
 
Did you mesure your stack height? What did you do to resurface the steel?? That is prolly your problem..

yup i was gonna say the same thing.. and from what people say oem clutch is best, i replaced my clutch with oem and make sure when u installed the plates that the last friction plate is set in different than the others

and why would u *resurface* the steel plates..... either they are bad or not...
it they are bent-burnt or broke then they should be replaced if none of the above leave them alone unless new ones come with the kit... all u have to do is stack them and lay them on a flat surface, dont lay one disk and look at it cause they have to be stacked and also while ur in there i would get heavier springs
 
yup i was gonna say the same thing.. and from what people say oem clutch is best, i replaced my clutch with oem and make sure when u installed the plates that the last friction plate is set in different than the others

and why would u *resurface* the steel plates..... either they are bad or not...
it they are bent-burnt or broke then they should be replaced if none of the above leave them alone unless new ones come with the kit... all u have to do is stack them and lay them on a flat surface, dont lay one disk and look at it cause they have to be stacked and also while ur in there i would get heavier springs


What year is your bike?

99-01 models have a different clutch pack then the k2 onward.. here is what i know and how the clutch is supposed to be packed in the bike... if you resurfaced the steel plates, chances are they are no longer thick enough to do their job. Their is more information about rebuilding clutch packs, in what most people call a Shop Manual, do yourself a favor and get one.


99-01 Models
1. Type A Friction Plate - 3.00 MM thick (8 off)
2. Type B Friction Plate - 3.8MM thick (2 off)
3. Type A Steel Plate 2.00 MM thick (7 off)
4. Type B Steel Plate 2.3mm thick (2 off)

from inside of basket to outside of basket they sit in this order.
2,3,1,3,1,3,1,3,1,4,1,4,1,3,1,3,1,3,2

For the 02 models to k7
1. Type A Friction Plate 3.00 MM thick (8 off)
2. Type B Friction Plate 3.8 MM thick - 127 MM inside diameter (1 off)
3. Type C Friction Plate 3.8 MM thick - 135 MM inside diameter (1 off)
4. Type A Steel Plate - 2.00 MM thick (7 off)
5. Type B Steel Plate - 2.3 MM thick (2 off)

from inside of basket to outside of basket they sit in this order,

3,4,1,4,1,4,1,5,1,5,1,4,1,4,1,4,1,4,2


If you do get heavy duty springs YOU WILL NEED TO GET A SLAVE CLUTCH COVER SUPPORT BRACKET!!!!!! OR A BILLET MADE SLAVE CLUTCH COVER!!!!!!!!!!!!

APE makes an affordable clutch cover support bracket, and their are some shops that i have seen make billet slave clutch covers, if you do not do either one of these things with heavy duty springs YOU WILL DESTROY YOUR SLAVE CLUTCH COVER!!!

PM me if you got questions.
 
It might be a pain to get the oil out and pull apart the clutch but is a sure way to double check / confirm what you have. When you pull in the clutch lever if you see the slave flexing / exposing a crack then that is part of the problem...I have been in that situation.

Like others have asked...what did you use on the steels? Did you take the color off or cut some grooves in the metal...any grit# known?
 
Stack height is a couple thousandths less than 2 inches
New EBC Kevlar frictions and steels. HD springs
It has a slave cyl support
 
question, why do you have to set the last friction plate differently than the others? what will happen if they are all set in the same orientation?
 
im not sure..i just did it cause the manuel said so... but if i had the basket sitting in front of me right now im sure i could think of the reason... but atm i cant.. :whistle:
 
After reading your first post op, it sounds like your tranny is the problem not the clutch. If you were having only a problem going from 5th to 6th it's not the clutch.
 
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