choke cable, Gen1

[OldFartDave]

I have a used 2002 gen1. The choke cable is binding and when i do a hard left, the choke engages. I thought i fixed the problem by rerouting the cable, but it's still a problem. Either I have the wrong cable or it's routed incorrectly. I'm green and clueless

 

[sixpack577]

The gen1 guys will be along to confirm, as it's been years since I worked on one.
I thought the fast idle cable was routed on the clutch lever side of the frame, connecting to the throttle linkage on the same side, as I know the gsxr's were routed on that side.

 

[OldFartDave]

thanks. I can't blame you for not remembering. What did I eat last night:? :-)

as you can see in the 2nd pic, the cable goes around the steering column and then joins with the throttle linkage. Until I get an answer, I'll prob reroute the linage between the tank and the triple clamp. The choke/high speed throttle adjustment has bee the source of my woes.

 

[sixpack577]

thanks. I can't blame you for not remembering. What did I eat last night:? :-)

as you can see in the 2nd pic, the cable goes around the steering column and then joins with the throttle linkage. Until I get an answer, I'll prob reroute the linage between the tank and the triple clamp. The choke/high speed throttle adjustment has bee the source of my woes.

Yeah, and if I am right(and I may not be)
the fast idle cable is routed in the wrong side of the frame...and now you have me wondering what I ate last night...

 

[JeffSyh]

I've personally never used it and plan on removing mine this winter, it just a high idle for cold weather but I'm kinda of sissy so I dont ride if it's cold hahaha. I can take pictures tonight of how mine is routed its still factory.

 

[OldFartDave]

I've personally never used it and plan on removing mine this winter, it just a high idle for cold weather but I'm kinda of sissy so I dont ride if it's cold hahaha. I can take pictures tonight of how mine is routed its still factory.

Thanks. That's a BIG deal taking a picture because you need to shed the plastic. It's interesting to hear that you plan on removing it. That would be the ultimate KISS for me. If it's not really a choke, I don't see the point.

 

[JeffSyh]

Thanks. That's a BIG deal taking a picture because you need to shed the plastic. It's interesting to hear that you plan on removing it. That would be the ultimate KISS for me. If it's not really a choke, I don't see the point.

Its fuel injected so it just a fast idle, not sure why they ever called it a choke or has a choke symbol on it

I hope thos helps but it wraps around the ignition.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I have a used 2002 gen1. The choke cable is binding and when i do a hard left, the choke engages. I thought i fixed the problem by rerouting the cable, but it's still a problem. Either I have the wrong cable or it's routed incorrectly. I'm green and clueless

View attachment 1641190

View attachment 1641191

Looks like the routing is correct, I think you just need to adjust the cable at the throttle bodies and give it a few mm of slack/free play.

 

[OldFartDave]

Thanks. JeffSyh, you went WAY out of your way to take those pics! Thank you! The one diff is I rerouted behind the ignition wires. That seems like a shorter path, but not enough to fix the problem. I'll play with the adjustment. My adjustment to give more slack for the cable actually shortens the housing. Maybe I'm adjusting in the wrong direction. I could try buying a new cable, but I fear I'll be in the same predicament.

 

[OldFartDave]

Sorry, I know this is bad form, but I have 2 threads going on this. I have a continuing conversation in the Newbie forum, and here.

It turns out that my bike has a lowering kit (thanks "Hayabusa Wannabe") and although the instructions say it doesn't alter cable routing ... It does in my case. I'll go with the standard reroute option that people have already covered with handlebar riser kits.

Thanks everyone. As a newbie I would have struggled for a long time on this if done in isolation. Kudos to everyone!

 

[sixpack577]

Sorry, I know this is bad form, but I have 2 threads going on this. I have a continuing conversation in the Newbie forum, and here.

It turns out that my bike has a lowering kit (thanks "Hayabusa Wannabe") and although the instructions say it doesn't alter cable routing ... It does in my case. I'll go with the standard reroute option that people have already covered with handlebar riser kits.

Thanks everyone. As a newbie I would have struggled for a long time on this if done in isolation. Kudos to everyone!

The lowering kit isn't lowering your bike right now, it's just giving you the option.
The spacers raise the top clamp and handlebars for less lean and more comfort.
The ability to lower the front comes from the now higher top clamp, which gives you the room to slide the forks up higher in the triple-clamps, which lowers the front.
Lowered bikes are for looks and drag racing. Keep it stock height for the best handling, and set the suspension sag.
35-40mm is ideal for the street.
Busa forks also feel less flimsy with 7w oil vs the stock 5w.

 

[OldFartDave]

The lowering kit isn't lowering your bike right now, it's just giving you the option.
The spacers raise the top clamp and handlebars for less lean and more comfort.
The ability to lower the front comes from the now higher top clamp, which gives you the room to slide the forks up higher in the triple-clamps, which lowers the front.
Lowered bikes are for looks and drag racing. Keep it stock height for the best handling, and set the suspension sag.
35-40mm is ideal for the street.
Busa forks also feel less flimsy with 7w oil vs the stock 5w.

thanks. The top of the tubes are at the clamp so it hasn't been lowered. Thanks for the sag spec, I didn't know what to set it at. The oil weight is interesting and I'll swap that out too.

Even as it sits, the ride is really sweet!

 

[sixpack577]

thanks. The top of the tubes are at the clamp so it hasn't been lowered. Thanks for the sag spec, I didn't know what to set it at. The oil weight is interesting and I'll swap that out too.

Even as it sits, the ride is really sweet!

Hide your wallet...you're gonna catch the sickness, lol

 

[OldFartDave]

Hide your wallet...you're gonna catch the sickness, lol

I'm not laughing ... I'm already seriously addicted! :-)

 

[BlueBacon]

I'll go with the standard reroute option that people have already covered with handlebar riser kits.

I just installed Helibars and had to reroute mine in between the two front bolts of the gas tank and around the left fork tube. See pic below from LadyHawk, who did the same thing back in 2007.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@OldFartDave

if not yet done, get a.s.a.p. the gen1 manual and all its extensions here
then read the page 8-22

btw : the choke is no choke but a "starter cable (fast idle cable)" it opens only the throttle valves 1 or 2° and increase by that the rpms
a choke (at carbs) increases the amount of fuel in the fuel/air - mix to the inlet ducts / cylinders

in other words
a choke enriches the fuel/air - mix to compensate the loss of fuel wich is caused by the condensation of fuel at the inlet duct(s) walls when engine is "cold" what then the leans the engine .

at the busa and its injection-system the ecu´s map is programmed for that - it gets the outside temp by the sensor in the airbox plus the motor´s temp by a 2nd sensor in the water circuit and enriches depending on it/them (or not )

 

[Berlin Germany]

@BlueBacon

jepp thats the cable´s way i lead it at my busa (with a superbikebar) - thx 4 the pic.

@OldFartDave
lift the tank and give the cable a bit more play - eventually you or the pre-owner set it too tight / too short at the throttle-valve-bridge
possibly to reduce the long way in the lever at the top of the handle LH

 

[SSGT_B]

I just installed Helibars and had to reroute mine in between the two front bolts of the gas tank and around the left fork tube. See pic below from LadyHawk, who did the same thing back in 2007.

View attachment 1641294

This

 

[OldFartDave]

\x

 

[OldFartDave]

I was kind of in dire straights for torque specs so I ended up subscribing to an online Hanes / Clymer manual. I didn't want to riddle the group with details that I could look up myself ... that would be just plane lazy on my part. :-) I've had these manuals before and although adequate, I'd prefer to have the real thing. So what do I do, use the 1999-2000 manual with the 2002 supplement?

and 8-22 is pretty clear on the cable routing. It's true, a picture is worth a 1000 words!

Thanks!