Changing Rear Sprocket need some help.

hayabusapower

Registered
I just order new chain and sprocket kit from Justin, Thank You Justin for the great service and great price.

Well now I'm thinking of buying an extra rear sprocket and bumping it up 2 or 3 more tooth for my Gen 1.

With 2 or 3 extra tooth can I keep my original chain links length, I'd like to swap between my stock sprocket.

Also what do you recommended as a sprockets setup 16/40, 17/42 or 17/43 keeping in mind I'd like to keep original chain length at 112 links.
 
chain and sprocket wear together switching between sprockets is going to be hard on the chain, my personal preference is +2 in the rear im -1 front +2 rear
 
Pretty sure +2 or +3 on the rear works with the stock chain. Obviously it's gonna move the rear wheel forward a bit.
 
yep...up to a +3 rear and you can still use the stocker. I went +4 and it was just enough that I needed a new chain
 
I don't want to loss to much top end and most of my ridding is on the street, I'm just looking for a bit more acceleration. Should I go +2 or +3 rear or just -1 in the front?
 
Always go to the rear sprocket for gear changes first. You can go up 3 on the rear. Going up 4 on the rear is a bit much on the street and you most likely will need to add a link to the chain depending on stretch and ware.

Dropping a tooth on the front on a heavy chain like the 530 will create excessive ware by wrapping the chain in a tighter circumference.

Changing sprockets will have no effect on ware. Your chain could care less how worn the sprocket is as long as all the teeth are in good shape.

I had a number of Gen I bikes and found 17/43 was my favorite street sprocket.
 
Always go to the rear sprocket for gear changes first. You can go up 3 on the rear. Going up 4 on the rear is a bit much on the street and you most likely will need to add a link to the chain depending on stretch and ware.

Dropping a tooth on the front on a heavy chain like the 530 will create excessive ware by wrapping the chain in a tighter circumference.

Changing sprockets will have no effect on ware. Your chain could care less how worn the sprocket is as long as all the teeth are in good shape.

I had a number of Gen I bikes and found 17/43 was my favorite street sprocket.

Thanks for the info!

Did you ever try between 17/42 and 17/43?
 
Yep, I tried them all and for me, the best bang for the buck was 17/43 but 17/42 is sweet as well. I enjoyed tossing the front tire in the air and the 43 worked a tad better.
 
I don't want to loss to much top end and most of my ridding is on the street, I'm just looking for a bit more acceleration. Should I go +2 or +3 rear or just -1 in the front?
I went to a 16/40 and wasn't too impressed...didn't give me the boost I was looking for. I am at 5000ft up tho too, that makes EVERYTHING feel slow. I'm at 16/42 now and love it! Perfect compromise between brutal acceleration and top speed....I even got 41mpg on my last mellow cruise in the mountains with my wife, mostly keeping the revs at 4000 or under. And that gearing also keeps the wheel in the same place as stock gearing. I think the gearing chart shows a top speed of 175 at redline with it as well. I personally won't go any lower with the gearing than that tho for the street, the rpm's and vibes would be too much for highway cruising.
 
A stock gen1 won't pull 6th ... put a 43 on the rear and it will, I guarantee you'll be pleased ... if you change the stock front 17 to a 16 you'll even more suprised (and so will those pesky litre bikes) :laugh:

Whatever you do your speedo will be even more incorrect, unless you fit a speedohealer...
 
Ill go with 43 and keep stock chain length. How much will my rear tire move forward?

Its not much as i recall... 1/4 inch maybe 1/2 inch.... been awhile though since i was running a stock wheelbase bike or sprockets..

Wouldn't 43 have more issues with tire slippage?

stock wheel base with the tire moved forward, not likely.... there will be more over all downforce on the rear tire.... granted rear tire effective torque (gearing multiplied) will be higher... but chances are you'll look at the sky before you break the rear loose... that said, everything is a bit relative....

tire on wheel slippage will increase a tad, if you look at 60ft times, there will be a little more tire spin there, but if you hook hard look out...
 
It seems that everyone wants to go up on the rear sprocket.

The Busa has enough power for me and I don't wheelie it so my question is do they make a 38 or 39 rear sprocket?
Might be going on some longer rides and looking to increase MPG.
 
It seems that everyone wants to go up on the rear sprocket.

The Busa has enough power for me and I don't wheelie it so my question is do they make a 38 or 39 rear sprocket?
Might be going on some longer rides and looking to increase MPG.


They do, however most anecdotal evidence says it either helps very little, or actually hurts gas milage...

Busa just seems to have a sweet spot RPM wise where its making very good cruising HP and stock gearing nails it...

Its one of those, dropping 250-500 rpm doesnt help a whole lot, if you need to add extra throttle to keep it there because its down a little tq wise...


Some searching will find a lot of discussion on this... That said, you can definitly find one if your wanting it...


I can also say the feeling of pulling some gear out of the bike is a bit painful...

Im running a 18/40 at the momment, and it can feel a bit labored from a light even on the turbo bike.. So make sure its something your really going to be happy with..

I'm actually just getting ready to change out the rear sprocket to at least a 43 to get some of the stock feel back on take off...
 
It seems that everyone wants to go up on the rear sprocket.

The Busa has enough power for me and I don't wheelie it so my question is do they make a 38 or 39 rear sprocket?
Might be going on some longer rides and looking to increase MPG.


yes they do. :thumbs:
:leseratte: high speed land racers use smaller rear sprockets to increase top speed.
 
Im decided going with a 43 in the rear, it seems what most members are recommending for street ridding. Thank you all for the info!
 
stock wheel base with the tire moved forward, not likely.... there will be more over all downforce on the rear tire.... granted rear tire effective torque (gearing multiplied) will be higher... but chances are you'll look at the sky before you break the rear loose... that said, everything is a bit relative....

tire on wheel slippage will increase a tad, if you look at 60ft times, there will be a little more tire spin there, but if you hook hard look out...
OK well last year I had no problems with tire slippage at all didn't do it once. This winter I put in new plugs and clutch. The 2 times I have had it out I have slippage from 50-110mph. My tire still has half life and I waited until I knew the tire was warm to try it. I would like to try out more teeth but if its just going to slip and not hook there's no point. I also weigh 150lbs all geared up so maybe I dont have enough weight? Possibly the road wasn't warm enough since both times it was only 60 out. Thanks for the input :thumbup:
 
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