Calling ECU Guru's - Year / region question

ottafish

Registered
Hi All,

I'm still going through some testing and diagnostics with my bike and weird issues.
I don't know the history, so I only have what I have.
I am of the opinion I have a dodgy ECU, but when searching the Australian part sites, the number isn't available.
If I search the US / international sites it shows up.

My bike, Australian delivered: Built 2013 / Complianced 2014
Current installed ECU: 32920-15H10 - (It also has a big "B" on it)

What the Aust parts list has for my year: 32920-15H70
What I can get from the wreckers here in Aust: 32920-15H00 - (which has a big "A" on it)

If I go to the Aust site and search by my year, I get a different part number that doesn't show up overseas parts listing.
So my question is, has some dodgy sod replaced my factory ECU with an import or am I missing something?

Thanks heaps,
Karl
 
I don't know which one you have, sorry.
But, if you can have it flashed, Any gen2 Busa or Bking ecu will work, as they are all 100% physically the same.
Only the country code and bin files are different.
You can buy an ecu from either bike from anywhere in the world.
So, if it's not original to the bike, it could be from another bike in your country, or flashed from anywhere else.

What "issues" do you have?
 
Sixpack, all good. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

I'm taking it to one of the local shops here and also have been given contact details for a ecu guru in Aust.
There's a few things.... the cooling fans refuse to turn on, every now and then it won't start. Have to pull key out and put back in again before it'll fire up. New key didn't help.
It doesn't show any codes either.
 
After taking the ecu to the Suzuki race guys today, we discovered a few things:

Yes, it's definitely a USA ecu
It has a hole in the back/base of the ecu which has been filled with epoxy/silicon.
- They tell me it's a fair chance it's been hardware hacked to disable the immobilizer system. And still running the USA firmware.

There is no knowing what else physical damage might have been done during the bastardization.
As it's not dropping the fan lines to earth, they said there may be other issues that I'm aren't aware of too

They suggested the best option is to dump it and source an unmolested Aust ecu, disable the immobilizer and then see if it works without issues.
 
If there was any Factory ECU recalls on any Suzuki bike the Ecu's end in the next letter,
A - original
B- first update. and so on

Nice to know. I didn't know that.
Thanks I'll file that in the memory and in the bike file.
Cheers
 
Then wouldn't it be better to have it flashed and roll with it? Rather than spending the money on another one and it still being stock...

Possibly, but it seems as if it isn't functioning correctly now. Since the hole was drilled in the case to access the pins needed to flash it(since they didn't use Ecu Editor or Woolrich)there's no telling what they did.
Also, from personal experience with flashing and security chipped keys, it's very possible that ecu is permanently fookered for that bike.
The op most likely Needs another ecu to fix the problem. It does Not have to be from an Australian bike either, just flashed to the bike's original country code and With the ignition immobilizer.
 
Possibly, but it seems as if it isn't functioning correctly now. Since the hole was drilled in the case to access the pins needed to flash it(since they didn't use Ecu Editor or Woolrich)there's no telling what they did.
Also, from personal experience with flashing and security chipped keys, it's very possible that ecu is permanently fookered for that bike.
The op most likely Needs another ecu to fix the problem. It does Not have to be from an Australian bike either, just flashed to the bike's original country code and With the ignition immobilizer.
Gotcha, that makes sense. I didn't know if the hole meant it had been physically tampered with, or if that was just coincidental.
 
Gotcha, that makes sense. I didn't know if the hole meant it had been physically tampered with, or if that was just coincidental.

Some ecu's can only be flashed by drilling into the case to access the needed pins, as those pins are not always accessable through exterior pins that plug into the harness(which the Busa's are, and why it's strange that someone would drill it).
 
Some ecu's can only be flashed by drilling into the case to access the needed pins, as those pins are not always accessable through exterior pins that plug into the harness(which the Busa's are, and why it's strange that someone would drill it).
So maybe the person who tried to flash it was unfamiliar with the Busa ecu?
 
Thanks for all the info everybody, it's very much appreciated. Every day I come here I learn something new :)

After some top info from Toad, who put my in contact with a ECU guru here in Aust, the ecu guy is organizing a AU ecu, flashed and set up for my bike. Just waiting on final details.

Regard the current ecu, attached is a couple of pics which show some info.
As it's already doing odd stuff, it could be hardware fooked, as per Sixpacks comments, or software glitch. I will still look at getting a ecueditor from BoostbySmith and seeing what I can do with it - a learning tool kinda thing.

Something I did learn yesterday is that there is apparently a difference in the ignition lock/barrel setup between AU and US versions. One has 6 wires, the other has 4. I'm assuming part of the immobilizer system. (mine has 6 btw)

Message_1547633085474-1-253x197.jpg
Message_1547633102848-1-171x292.jpg
 
Thanks for all the info everybody, it's very much appreciated. Every day I come here I learn something new :)

After some top info from Toad, who put my in contact with a ECU guru here in Aust, the ecu guy is organizing a AU ecu, flashed and set up for my bike. Just waiting on final details.

Regard the current ecu, attached is a couple of pics which show some info.
As it's already doing odd stuff, it could be hardware fooked, as per Sixpacks comments, or software glitch. I will still look at getting a ecueditor from BoostbySmith and seeing what I can do with it - a learning tool kinda thing.

Something I did learn yesterday is that there is apparently a difference in the ignition lock/barrel setup between AU and US versions. One has 6 wires, the other has 4. I'm assuming part of the immobilizer system. (mine has 6 btw)

View attachment 1592026 View attachment 1592027

Yes, the 2 extra wires(6 total) are for the immobilizer led next to the key.
U.S(and some other countries)Busa's don't have that, so only 4 wires.
 
... damage might have been done during the bastardization ...

Ottafish, that a great line ! I may use it from time to time, hopefully I won't have a need to.

Good luck using the faulty ECU as a learning tool; post progress and/or tips.

This thread peaked my interest because my gen 1 may need a ECU tune. I have questions.

First owner put on Muzzy mufflers; I didn't know Muzzy was aftermarket. Here's first question, how do I tell if just the mufflers where changed or full system ? Most full performance systems go 4 to 2 to 1. My gen 1 has both mufflers; so the Muzzy's are likely slip ons. Right ?

my "performance" options:
- K&N air filter
- slip on Muzzy mufflers
- (+)2 rear & (-)1 front sprocket upgrade

PC Racing Flo PCS2 filter doesn't matter right ?

I know there can be gains by tuning the ECU straight from factory. though I really not looking for power. Reliability is most important to me. If I changed something the bike isn't going to use effectively, then installing was unnecessary.

So, do you think I need a ECU tune ? Would a Power Commander be better for the additional cost ?

Thanks everyone for letting me pick your brains.
 
Power Commanders are pretty useless without a dyno tune.
If you are near a tuner that uses Ecu Editor for dyno tuning, then you don't need a power commander.
An ecu flash is beneficial really only if you want a little more lower rpm get up and go.
Having the fan turn on sooner, one of the ecu settings (and adding a 2nd fan) can help a gen1 to run a little cooler.
From the sound of your exhaust, they are slip-on or bolt-on mufflers, it's possible but unlikely the po put on a universal header.
Post some pictures and we can tell you.
Look at the small and large airbox mods for the gen1. The first is just removing the flapper, and letting it breathe better, you can cut the larger section out with a full exhaust and dyno tune.
The -1/+2 gearing has already woken the bike up alot.
If you haven't set the suspension sag to your weight, that should be priority. Handling and stopping before more power.
 
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