Busa head removal
- Thread starter speedpimp
- Start date
cougar694u
Registered
Unbolting everything (the head bolts in particular) should be easier while the head is in the bike.
Although I've only pulled the head with the motor out, I think it'll be about the same. What sucked about having the motor out was torquing the head bolts. At least with the motor in the frame you don't have to worry about holding the motor to torque it all down.
The only drawback I see is if there's enough room to pull the head off before hitting the Y of the frame. If you've got clearance, do it.
Although I've only pulled the head with the motor out, I think it'll be about the same. What sucked about having the motor out was torquing the head bolts. At least with the motor in the frame you don't have to worry about holding the motor to torque it all down.
The only drawback I see is if there's enough room to pull the head off before hitting the Y of the frame. If you've got clearance, do it.
Getting the head out with the motor still in isn't the problem...it's putting it back in!
I pulled the head off my motor last year...with the motor still in the bike. I surprised a local mechanic when I told him what I did. It's really tight getting the head 'tweaked' in the right direction to come out...but it can be done.
It was a different story when I went to reinstall it. It was very difficult to get everything to line up just right (especially the cam chain guides - one of them rests in a 'well' in the cylinders).
After messing around with it for waaaay too much time, I ended up just dropping the motor and putting it all back together. I had my neighbor help me. He held the motor while I torqued the head bolts.
BTW - I get to do it all over again! I *still* have a coolant leak - so I'm about to pull the head again. Prolly get started in the next 2 weeks. This time, I'll just drop the motor from the beginning!
I pulled the head off my motor last year...with the motor still in the bike. I surprised a local mechanic when I told him what I did. It's really tight getting the head 'tweaked' in the right direction to come out...but it can be done.
It was a different story when I went to reinstall it. It was very difficult to get everything to line up just right (especially the cam chain guides - one of them rests in a 'well' in the cylinders).
After messing around with it for waaaay too much time, I ended up just dropping the motor and putting it all back together. I had my neighbor help me. He held the motor while I torqued the head bolts.
BTW - I get to do it all over again! I *still* have a coolant leak - so I'm about to pull the head again. Prolly get started in the next 2 weeks. This time, I'll just drop the motor from the beginning!
If your not going to degree the cams and have an extra set of hands to move the chain guides when going back together , then just inframe . The outer two head bolts on the exhaust side will not come out . They should be vice gripped to hold them up enough to clear the block when removing and installing the head .(speedpimp @ Feb. 12 2007,22:11) Has anyone removed a busa head without taking the motor out or is it even possible. I plan on doing a little head work and am trying to determine whether to pull motor or to just pull head out. Which way should I go...any recommendations?
If cams used must be degree'd , it's a must to at least pivot the engine down leaving back thru bolt in . On assembly you can re-torque the already fitted head bolts after the engine is back between the frame .
While you have it that far apart I would think about lifting the block up enough to snip cut the base gasket out which will tighten the piston to head clearance by .010 . Thats a free mod there . Reseal with case sealant .
Any anti-freeze that gets inside the cases can kill the bearings .
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