Mystery Machine



barkleyw

Registered
I purchased a 99' Busa a few months back...shop said it was bored and port/polished but I have no paperwork and no contact for a previous owner.

Anyway besides opening it up is there anyway I can determine what I have?

I was thinking of just putting it on a dyno to see the numbers but how big of a job is it to pull the head off of one of these and take a look?

Any links to the steps on pulling the head?

I assume I would have to get new head gaskets - anything else?

Debating whether to just ride it or open it up and take a peak...I suppose even if it did have some head work I would really want to put it on a flow bench to see where I was at - maybe just compression test it, dyno run it and open it up only when something goes wrong?

I am setting it up for drag racing

Suggestions?
 

1bondoman

Registered
If the cylinder is from Millenium it will have a number stamped in the side of it , you can call Millenium and give them the number and they can tell you what size it is. As far as the port work you can pull the throttle bodies and look at the intake side and see if it's been ported and polished on. You can also pull the exhaust off and look at the south side of the port. I don't think I would not pull the head to look at the Pistons unless you just want to spend a lot of extra time and money. You can however pull the valve cover and look at the cams and see if they are aftermarket or if it has aftermarket adjustable sprockets. What kind of exhaust is on the bike? Post some pictures of the bike and we can tell you if someone set it up to run or not. Does it have a power commander? We really need more details to tell you anymore.
 

Superzuki

Registered
^^What he said...Do not take the engine apart if don't have to..
Look down it's throat or up it's exhaust (heh-heh)
If you're going to ride it on the street just ride it and enjoy it.
It's still a great bike to ride, even if the re-build is just a story to get a better price.
 

GIXERHP

ok, ok...just a wee bit Irish...
Donating Member
Registered
Not all cylinders from Millenium are stamped. Older ones are not for sure.
If the cylinder is from Millenium it will have a number stamped in the side of it , you can call Millenium and give them the number and they can tell you what size it is. As far as the port work you can pull the throttle bodies and look at the intake side and see if it's been ported and polished on. You can also pull the exhaust off and look at the south side of the port. I don't think I would not pull the head to look at the Pistons unless you just want to spend a lot of extra time and money. You can however pull the valve cover and look at the cams and see if they are aftermarket or if it has aftermarket adjustable sprockets. What kind of exhaust is on the bike? Post some pictures of the bike and we can tell you if someone set it up to run or not. Does it have a power commander? We really need more details to tell you anymore.
 

POWERHOUSE

Frank
Donating Member
Registered
Put it on a dyno and have it custom mapped. Looking at this or looking at that won't make a bit of difference. Get it tuned, see what numbers pop out the other side and you will have your answers . . .
 

1bondoman

Registered
Put it on a dyno and have it custom mapped. Looking at this or looking at that won't make a bit of difference. Get it tuned, see what numbers pop out the other side and you will have your answers . . .
It'll tell him if they lied about the parts it's got. Not always convenient to go to the dyno. Besides that I've seen some built motors that won't do much better than stock on a dyno. I personally would rather spend some time to look instead of paying for a tuning session to only be disappointed and my wallet be lighter.
 

POWERHOUSE

Frank
Donating Member
Registered
It'll tell him if they lied about the parts it's got. Not always convenient to go to the dyno. Besides that I've seen some built motors that won't do much better than stock on a dyno. I personally would rather spend some time to look instead of paying for a tuning session to only be disappointed and my wallet be lighter.
You know bondoman, you are right - forget the tuning session. Without tuning, a few pulls will tell a lot. A stock-engined, well-tuned Gen 1 will make 165-175 rear wheel, SAE. Anything over that and he has something going on under the hood. If you are going to spend some money paying someone else to tear into the motor, you might as well be prepared to put good parts in - if they are not already there. Then you can go for the tune . . .:whistle:
 

1bondoman

Registered
You know bondoman, you are right - forget the tuning session. Without tuning, a few pulls will tell a lot. A stock-engined, well-tuned Gen 1 will make 165-175 rear wheel, SAE. Anything over that and he has something going on under the hood. If you are going to spend some money paying someone else to tear into the motor, you might as well be prepared to put good parts in - if they are not already there. Then you can go for the tune . . .:whistle:
The things I told him to check he can do himself. We all don't have our own dyno. An hour of my or his time is a lot cheaper than a dyno session. I don't have a clue what you charge but around here is 250-350 for a tuning session. I personally would be upset to spend 350 to discover I had a stock motor.
:)
 

POWERHOUSE

Frank
Donating Member
Registered
The things I told him to check he can do himself. We all don't have our own dyno. An hour of my or his time is a lot cheaper than a dyno session. I don't have a clue what you charge but around here is 250-350 for a tuning session. I personally would be upset to spend 350 to discover I had a stock motor.
:)
A few pulls on a dyno is not $350, more like $75-100 to find out where the bike is at horsepower and air/fuel -wise. Pulling the throttle bodies, valve cover and exhaust and re-installing them takes more than an hour. The OP's original question asked if there was anyway other than taking it apart to find out if any work had been done, that would be a dyno.
 

1bondoman

Registered
A few pulls on a dyno is not $350, more like $75-100 to find out where the bike is at horsepower and air/fuel -wise. Pulling the throttle bodies, valve cover and exhaust and re-installing them takes more than an hour. The OP's original question asked if there was anyway other than taking it apart to find out if any work had been done, that would be a dyno.
Yes you could put it on the Dyno. Still much cheaper to spend a couple hours checking a few things. But if hes got more money than he's got time He can take it to the dyno.
 

barkleyw

Registered
Here they are...is that a stock exhaust - it does have a PC3 - wondering why they would have that if this is stock?

I will take a peak behind the throttle bodies - not sure if I want to take the exhaust off.

The guy lowered it in the back and the horn is disconnected - air shift maybe?

I live in WI so going to get it ready for the street/track in the spring.

I wouldn't want to pay over $125.00 to get the dyno info.

I was going to pull the clutch cover to see if the springs are stock.

Great idea on pulling the valve covers - I will do that.

IMG_20141106_191556179.jpg


IMG_20141106_191609573.jpg


IMG_20141106_192059810.jpg


IMG_20141106_192150914.jpg
 

1bondoman

Registered
That's an aftermarket pipe. The cylinder is kinda off color possibly from a cleaner of some kind ? Not sure. Almost looks like it has a spacer under the cylinder but from the pics it's hard to tell for sure.
A good indicator on the clutch springs is look and see if it has a slave support on the sprocket cover.
 

barkleyw

Registered
That's an aftermarket pipe. The cylinder is kinda off color possibly from a cleaner of some kind ? Not sure. Almost looks like it has a spacer under the cylinder but from the pics it's hard to tell for sure.
A good indicator on the clutch springs is look and see if it has a slave support on the sprocket cover.
Do you know if the entire exhaust is aftermarket or just the muffler/silencer section - I will have to see if there are any markings on it.
 

badass1000

Registered
any time I am looking at a bike I just assume it is a stock motor and pay accordingly. If they want extra money because the motor is supposedly built I want proof. Receipts and a dyno run to back it up. Even if it does have parts they can be a huge difference. a 1397 could make between 165hp and 220+hp. I have had a few friends looking to buy a used bike that originally the seller claimed had a lot of work done to the motor. After talking to them and getting the run around they finally admitted it had a stock motor. Same thing happened to my girlfriend. She bought a used 05 gsxr 1000. Seller claimed it had a bunch of motor work and was way faster then a stock gsxr 1000. Said it had head work, cams, etc... I told we are not paying any more then if it had a stock motor. Asked for proof of work and he didn't have any. Told him I wanted the bike dynode before purchase, etc.. We still bought the bike because it was a good deal. It has a bone stock motor.
Easiest thing to do as frank said is to just put it on the dyno and check the hp and tune. If you drag race run it down the 1/4 and see what it mph.
 

barkleyw

Registered
good idea on assuming its stock....I paid just over 4k for this one...11,500 miles. came with the PC3, no cracks in the plastic, not sure if the K&N filter is stock but it was on there also. Once I get the dyno run I will post it.
 
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