Busa Drag Racing

O

OB_cfberlin

Registered
New to Drag Bike and was wondering if some of you out there could answer a few questions for me...

1. Air shifter... what does this do? Does it actually shift the bike for you?

2. Slider Clutch... Again What is it?

3. Lowering the bike... I know there are parts/kits out there for doing this and that it helps keep the front tire on the ground, right? Do you need to do this if you put an wheelie bars and who sells the kits to lower the busa and how hard are they to put on...

4. Delay boxes... I kind of get the idea of the delay when you release the button on the first light but what advantage does this have over a regular launch.

5. Extended swing arms.. Is this neccessary and if so who sells them?

Thats about it for the first round of queries. Really appreciate the help in understanding the sport and how to get into it. Took my bike to the track and pulled off a 10.101 amd a 9.981 on my first two tries and i think I'm hooked!
 
Heck with those times in Denver you must weigh 98 lbs :)
do a search and you will find most of it.
I would post some more but it has been a late night.
 
I have found that useing a 6 to 8 inch over arm with the axle set at about 7 1/4 inches works real well on a stock motor Busa. Of coarse we were useing the Micky/T MCR2 which is the best hooking street tire I've ever seen. Everyone should be careful useing one of these on a stock rim. These tires hook so well that they're starting to spin on the rim. I ran air pressure between 20 & 25pds and never had any problems hooking up or the tire spinning on the rim.(thats great!)
 
Air Shifter cuts out engine momentarily while using compressed air to a cylinder to shift the bike. You initiate the shift via a handle bar mounted button.

Slider clutches are for drag only bikes, there is no clutch lever, the clutch uses centrifugal force to engage. They are NOT streetable.

Lowering the bike enables you to launch more agressively, keeping the front end down. You do not have to run a wheelie bar. Wheelie bars generally only work well when a rear strut is used, which eliminates any rear suspension travel. Again, not good for the street but some have done this successfully.

Delay boxes are typically used for bracket racing. You can program a delay time in to the box and leave off of your light as well as your opponents. The box will choose the quicker (sooner) leave. You must have a way of engaging the clutch with a delay box, usually an air clutch. Again, not used on the street, and the only advantage is the ability to cut better lights. It will NOT improve your ET's.

Extended swing arms are great for high HP bikes such as the Hayabusa. Typically you will see a tenth (sometimes more) for each inch of length added to the swingarm. The only drawback here is that the longer the swingarm gets the worse the bike will corner. If you like to corner as well as drag race you should compromise on the length (3"-6" max), bikes used primarily for drag racing can use longer arms, but only the very high HP bikes need anything over 8".

Hope this helps, and YES, it is addictive!
 
Frank,
Have you tried screwing the tire to the wheel, or did you not want to mess up the chrome? 4 screws per side should hold it. I'm sure you have gave this some thought already. Jack
 
I haven't gone yet this year, now THATS a jones!

Correction to above, 1/2 a tenth per inch of swingarm is probably closer to the truth, but some may see more. It only works up to a point though: if 6" over is enough you will gain nothing by going say 8" over. Be reasonable and you'll be happy with the results. Also, because a longer swingarm changes weight bias front/rear you will need a sticky tire when extending an arm. I found this out the hard way, as my current setup limits tire choice. The Metzeler race compound ME-1 I have spins easily. I need to widen my 18" rim or better yet go to a wide 17" rim/tire and run a more modern (sticky) tire. I'd LOVE to be able to use one of the Mickey shootout tires.
 
JonnyC,

With those time in Denver he better be weighing 25lbs and the busa went on a 100lbs diet. It probably also had to get about 40 hp more.

I have seen one (true) street bike run 9s in Denver. It was like a 9.97 and the motor was exteremely built, sprayed, wheelie bars and slick. It aint easy even breaking into the 10s here.

-Dana
 
JACK, personally I haven't had the tire spinning on the rim problems yet.

The problems I heard of were from other Racers. I believe these guys were running their air pressure too low?

I ran between 20 & 25pds problem free.
 
Brad, I don't think I can really give a straight up answer to that yet?

You see I've yet to use this tire on My 200+ hp Busa. And as far as I know I'm one of the only big bore guys admitting to having a lock up also?

The Shootout bikes are useing Beadlocks because they already have them. It cost over $2,000(roughly) to have one of these rims.

I've seen guys in the shootout class run air pressure as low as 4pds to get hooked up. But they weren't useing a tire like the new Micky/T either.

I'm not sure but I don't think any of these guys are running their air pressure any lower than 12 to 14 pds with this new tire?

I tested this tire with a stock motor Busa with 7.25 inches of stretch, gearing at 16/42. Leaving the line at 8,500rpm's and the tire NEVER spun 25pds of air!

If I have any problems I'll have to do as Jack said and either drill some holes or invest in a new beadlock.($$ ouch!)
 
The beadlocks are arguably neccessary in that class. The bikes are so close right now that you cannot afford to spin the tire on the rim AT ALL. It's wasted energy that could have beed used to go propel the bike forward instead of using that power to spin the tire on the rim. It may not seem like it would matter much, but $2000 is cheap insurance that you don't lose a race because of it. Also, the shootout bikes are making a good 300 HP now!
 
You guys are correct about the beadlock but let me say that Brock doesnt have one! The beadlock was a easy way of getting a big contact patch without fear of spinning the tire off the rim.It was more of a safety thing. Now a beadlock is not as needed as it was because of the tire mickey came out with. It used to be ..flatten a tire out by dropping pressure and slap a smaller tire on a wide rim...things at times would go wrong..thus beadlock was used. Now since the mickey likes air like Frank said you wont be spinning it off the rim. But a beadlock will stretch that 190 tire out really good..giving a better and wider contact patch than lets say a 6 inch rim. Hey its definately an insurance issue....if you have seen a tire come off a rim in person at about 160mph like I did in Indy last year...you will swear by a beadlock!
oh and the cost is around 1600.00 depending on whos rim you go with! If you want a beadlock on your stock rim its another way of doing it...
go to our beadlock section..www.nxtlevelracing.com
 
Another reason for the beadlocks is that these guys are stretching the tires our on a very wide rim. At the speeds they run ( 180 + or - ) the tire tries to suck back in at the bead. Many of those guys finished a run only to discover a flat tire.

Therefor they use the bead lock to keep the tire pulled out where they want it as well as slipping in the rim.

Jay
 
Hi Seb!

Is it possible that you have a beadlock to fit the Busa?

Do you have one on the shelf?

Whats the stock rim beadlock look like?
 
Frank
When I was last in Gainesville there were many Streetbike shootout bikes with very expensive looking bead locks on the rims Does the new MT not require these because the pressures are so high?
Brad
 
Frank,
A stock rim with a beadlock looks like a stock rim with a beadlock hehehe...I dont have a picture pal so I cant post it. Just picture a stock rim with the beadlock assembly. Gary Wardowski has one on his bike I believe. A beadlock is just an addition to any aluminum rim! I myself have a 7inch beadlock rim I will put on my turbo busa. The lips are machined off of the stock rim and the beadlock assembly is welded on to each side. Also the rim is widened to your specification during this addition up to 7 and 7/8 inches. I had one yesterday but it has been purchased by a nut in europe. Turn around time for a beadlock on any rim is somewhere between 1.5-2.5 weeks. Beadlock rims can be purchased as a whole or an addition to your rim can be made.
seb
 
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