broken spark plug

I would try a left hand drill bit and an easy-out(vacuuming chips).
Also spray a little penatrating oil and let it sit overnight, in the hope that some will creep into the threads.
You should be able to find a long enough bit, and put an easy out into a socket on an extension.
If you can get a decent hole in the sparkplug, I'de let the engine run a few minutes(don't worry about it not firing on that cylinder) to get it hot, and try turning it out then.
I'de also be concerned about the condition of the threads in the head.
It's likely galled and not cross threaded.
Cross threaded would have already ruined the threads, and it most likely would have came out.
Galling is 2 different types of metals seizing together, aluminum vs stainless steel is a common example(ss is typical sparkplug thread material, even though some plug makers claim their special alloys prevent galling, but that is no guarantee).
Anti-seize is great to use on All fasteners that don't require thread-locker(except for head bolts in most cases), as it prevents this. Also, torque specs should generally be lowered by 10% when using anti-seize, as it makes it easier to strip threads as it smooths installation.
It also acts as a very mild thread locker itself as it sits.
If you do get the broken plug out, be very careful with the threads installing a new plug.
All of this is a long shot too, as you may indeed have to pull the head, but, sometimes persistence and patience pays off.
Good luck with it.
 
sixpack577 said:
I would try a left hand drill bit and an easy-out(vacuuming chips).
Also spray a little penatrating oil and let it sit overnight, in the hope that some will creep into the threads.
You should be able to find a long enough bit, and put an easy out into a socket on an extension.
If you can get a decent hole in the sparkplug, I'de let the engine run a few minutes(don't worry about it not firing on that cylinder) to get it hot, and try turning it out then.
I'de also be concerned about the condition of the threads in the head.
It's likely galled and not cross threaded.
Cross threaded would have already ruined the threads, and it most likely would have came out.
Galling is 2 different types of metals seizing together, aluminum vs stainless steel is a common example(ss is typical sparkplug thread material, even though some plug makers claim their special alloys prevent galling, but that is no guarantee).
Anti-seize is great to use on All fasteners that don't require thread-locker(except for head bolts in most cases), as it prevents this. Also, torque specs should generally be lowered by 10% when using anti-seize, as it makes it easier to strip threads as it smooths installation.
It also acts as a very mild thread locker itself as it sits.
If you do get the broken plug out, be very careful with the threads installing a new plug.
All of this is a long shot too, as you may indeed have to pull the head, but, sometimes persistence and patience pays off.
Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
Great advice mate, yeah, provided the broken threaded part of the old plug is not galled or crossed, it should wind out easily with an ezy-out.
 
l88 chevelle said:
ok,,i just had a spark plug break in the cylinder head , the socket part is broken off , the threads are in the spark plug hole !!,2008 gen 2,any suggestions?
Click to expand...
They make a couple different extractors for the 5.4 3 valve for motors that are notorious for doing exactly this. It's gonna be around 100 or so dollars at least the last couple I bought were but that was a few years ago but go get one and don't touch it till you do because it will work but if you damage it trying a different method or may not. They have one that comes with an epoxy and you use it and another part of the kit to pull the electrode porcelain out if its still in there, this is the best way when it will pull it out. The other style will will push it down which a lot of people don't like because it might leave a few chips in the cylinder. I always use a long blow gun to clear the cylinder as much as possible anyway and I've never had an issue and I have pulled a few of them apart later on for other reasons and also use a bore scope to look around to see if I left anything in there and to check for scratches after running it. The second style kit is the easier and faster style to use and they might actually rent them at autozone (I know I bought one from there years ago) and honestly I prefer that style because of the easiness to use. Good luck hope you get it out without having to tear it down.
 
Last edited:
Dopey said:
They make a couple different extractors for the 5.4 3 valve for motors that are notorious for doing exactly this. It's gonna be around 100 or so dollars at least the last couple I bought were but that was a few years ago but go get one and don't touch it till you do because it will work but if you damage it trying a different method or may not. They have one that comes with an epoxy and you use it and another part of the kit to pull the electrode porcelain out if its still in there, this is the best way when it will pull it out. The other style will will push it down which a lot of people don't like because it might leave a few chips in the cylinder. I always use a long blow gun to clear the cylinder as much as possible anyway and I've never had an issue and I have pulled a few of them apart later on for other reasons and also use a bore scope to look around to see if I left anything in there and to check for scratches after running it. The second style kit is the easier and faster style to use and they might actually rent them at autozone (I know I bought one from there years ago) and honestly I prefer that style because of the easiness to use. Good luck hope you get it out without having to tear it down.
Click to expand...

That's good advice(I've done 5.4 broken plugs), but my concern would be the plug boot bore I.D. may be smaller on the Suzuki than the Ford, as I don't know if that extractor will fit??(It may, it may not).
 
sixpack577 said:
Thanks man...lets hope it works, lol
Click to expand...
I've been through this exact situation a few times, when the plug beaks and the realization of what the possible outcome is (head off etc) it kinda gives you that sinking feeling, but the sense of relief is immense once that ezy out starts turning that broken piece and it comes out whole.
I have seen helicoils in spark plug holes in cyl heads that have gone wrong too, hole drilled on an angle and the spark plug gasket no longer seals on the head's seat . . . yeah, ugly, real ugly.
Cyl head OFF and sent away to a machinist to repair, lol.
 
this is an ebay version of the tool. the measurements should be able to tell you if you can use it in the busa plug well. if not you might be able to get a machine shop to machine it down some to fit. also broken plugs are not a new thing and tips/tricks on how to deal with plugs are generic since most spark plugs are similarly designed.

Removing a Broken Spark Plug

If a spark plug gets broken during the replacement process, it can cause much bigger headaches for the rest of the car. Learn how to remove broken plugs here.
www.championautoparts.com www.championautoparts.com

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A0CA9096-C8A1-46CB-A85F-26C610D5AB87.png
 
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