Broken axle adjustment bolt, any suggestions?

[InfiniteReality]

I had the adjustment bolt on the right side of my swingarm snap off. I've tried everything to get it out, it's frozen in the swing arm. Machine shop told me they won't touch it since I tried to get it out with extractors already.

I did figure a secure fix, since the left axle block is thicker, I drilled and tapped 2 holes above and below the axle hole and used 2 bolts to get the chain aligned. While it is sort of a pain to adjust 2 bolts, it works. I planned to do the same for the remaining axle block, but with the notch for the head of the axle, it's not thick enough to repeat what I did. Of course I had to flip the axle around so the nut is on the right side which bugs me. I have about 1500 miles on this setup and no issues.

My current solution as it is now works and confident in it, but is bugging me being different on both sides plus axle being backwards. I know I could pull the arm off get the whole insert drilled out, weld the hole up, then the drill the hole again with an insert and get the arm repowdercoated. That's just alot of downtime and headache to do all of that and would like to avoid

I'm looking for better solutions to my dilemma. Do they make thicker axle adjustment blocks by chance? Anyone else have any options on a better fix?

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

Some pics would help. I was going to suggest some heat to separate the piece from the arm but since you’ve drilled it.?.

 

[InfiniteReality]

Some pics would help. I was going to suggest some heat to separate the piece from the arm but since you’ve drilled it.?.

Sorry about no pictures, I wasn't at a computer to grab them. here's some pictures thru the process of trying to get it out. I did apply some heat, but was careful not too much with the powdercoat, but no luck.

I also tried left handed drill bits, several extractors (broke one) and finally gave up and was fixing to pull the arm when I had the idea about drilling and tapping 2 holes on the adjuster. I also added a piece of black HDPE with a notch in the center to cover up the broken bolt and make sure the bolt heads had something even to go against.

 

[sixpack577]

You win the McGyver Award on that one!
Genious!

 

[ItsDooomz]

I'm sure you can get a mint stock arm with axle and adjusters for $100 or less.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

I hadn’t thought of protecting the powder coat. Couldn’t you get a very long drill bit larger than the original hole, drill it out, place a new stud into the new hole and replicate the original design? Don’t worry about the axle, it’s made to fit in either direction.

 

[InfiniteReality]

You win the McGyver Award on that one!
Genious!

Thanks! I thought so as well when I was thinking about it trying to get to sleep one night. Wished I'd thought of it a week or 2 sooner, lol. Glad I wasn't just giving myself too much credit for the McGyver award, lol

I'm sure you can get a mint stock arm with axle and adjusters for $100 or less.

I'm a little partial to my +6 and 250 tire.

I hadn’t thought of protecting the powder coat. Couldn’t you get a very long drill bit larger than the original hole, drill it out, place a new stud into the new hole and replicate the original design? Don’t worry about the axle, it’s made to fit in either direction.

That crossed my mind, but then I'd have that rivinut inside the arm rattling around and driving me crazy. Also possible it'd have to be drilled out slightly larger which means a bigger bolt and no from for the head to turn on the next bolt size up. I dont know if I posted a pic, but also have hardened steel extractor broke off in the previous hole I drilled so not sure how easy it'd drill out any more in general.

 

[bigoltool]

As was already mentioned there are loads of Mint Stock arms out there, that being said I like the improv!

 

[InfiniteReality]

As was already mentioned there are loads of Mint Stock arms out there, that being said I like the improv!

I can't do a stock arm again, just like the wide tire since I mostly just cruise on it. Also would have to get another wheel, tire, caliper bracket and spacers. Just hard to justify spending money to go back to stock, although a new aftermarket arm could be possible if they'd make it so I can run my stock wheel, but with SLC build going on don't want to spend the money, lol.

Not sure what it'd cost, but I suppose it's possible to draw up a new thicker adjuster in 3D and send it off to get CNC'd, at least they'd match and could flip axle back around.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

Yeah any more drilling might reduce the strength of the arm right where it’s needed. A possible fix for the rattling is to put some Gorilla glue on the end of a Q tip and push it in where the rattling nut/bolt is. When they touch, no more rattling.

 

[InfiniteReality]

Yeah any more drilling might reduce the strength of the arm right where it’s needed. A possible fix for the rattling is to put some Gorilla glue on the end of a Q tip and push it in where the rattling nut/bolt is. When they touch, no more rattling.

Expand-a-foam crossed my mind as well. Maybe I'll ride it till winter and then drill the rivinut out. Then possibly can haul bike to a welding shop and let them fill in the hole so I can drill it back out and put in a new steel rivinut

 

[bigoltool]

Have you looked at a Helicoil?

 

[Dennis]

It may be too far gone with your attempts already, but my fool-proof method is to put a nut on the broken bolt and then weld them together. The heat cycle of the weld/cool breaks the bond that is holding your bolt. Then turn the bolt out with a wrench on the nut. I would pull the arm to do that.

 

[InfiniteReality]

Have you looked at a Helicoil?

Honestly didn't think about that approach. I've only used a helicoil once, wonder how thick the metal needs to be?

It may be too far gone with your attempts already, but my fool-proof method is to put a nut on the broken bolt and then weld them together. The heat cycle of the weld/cool breaks the bond that is holding your bolt. Then turn the bolt out with a wrench on the nut. I would pull the arm to do that.

You're right, I believe it's too far gone at this point. I originally was confident I could get it out, after snapping a hardened steel extractor I think the original bolt was just too seized up.

I appreciate the replies and suggestions everyone! Figured it was worth a shot to ask if anyone had any other suggestions to fix it properly. Sounds like it'll be a winter project to get the arm off and bring it some where to get drilled out and welded back up and powdercoated. Just thankful I can safely ride it in the meantime!

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Many years back, I had a front disc rotor bolt head (GSXR1100G) shear off and the bolt was left flush with the face on the wheel hub.
The bolt had seized due to electrolysis (steel bolt threads in aluminum wheel hub) and I tried drilling and used a stud remover (ezy-out) which also snapped off flush then making it impossible to even drill it any further.
I took it to a local engineering company and they removed it using a method called "Spark Erosion".
The end result was very good, no thread damage at all, it looked like they hadn't re-cut or cleaned up the thread either.
I paid $75 which I thought was ok at the time (1998)

 

[Dennis]

Yep, we have one at work. Electro Arc is one of the better known brands. You burn through the middle then pick the pieces out of the threads. You can also use a wire EDM.

 

[GIXERHP]

The conversional extractors sukk
But you need to heat up the swingarm with a torch also and use one of these extractors,
https://www.tooltopia.com/irwin-han...MIwaz-t-Ha2wIVTF6GCh2o2wCREAQYAyABEgIJi_D_BwE

 

[GIXERHP]

Or if you have a Mig welder weld a nut on the bolt and heat up the arm and it will come out

 

[InfiniteReality]

Many years back, I had a front disc rotor bolt head (GSXR1100G) shear off and the bolt was left flush with the face on the wheel hub.
The bolt had seized due to electrolysis (steel bolt threads in aluminum wheel hub) and I tried drilling and used a stud remover (ezy-out) which also snapped off flush then making it impossible to even drill it any further.
I took it to a local engineering company and they removed it using a method called "Spark Erosion".
The end result was very good, no thread damage at all, it looked like they hadn't re-cut or cleaned up the thread either.
I paid $75 which I thought was ok at the time (1998)

Wow! That's very cool, I've never come across that method but looks like it'd work. Just need to find someone local that possibly does it. I assume they have longer electrodes to reach where mine is broke, that's one of the negative things I discovered about an adjuster bolt, it took a longer drill bit to even reach it.

I'll call around today and see if there's someone local that does it, thanks!

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Wow! That's very cool, I've never come across that method but looks like it'd work. Just need to find someone local that possibly does it. I assume they have longer electrodes to reach where mine is broke, that's one of the negative things I discovered about an adjuster bolt, it took a longer drill bit to even reach it.

I'll call around today and see if there's someone local that does it, thanks!

You're most welcome sir! Good luck.