Any Experience with 55W HID low & high on K8/K9?

H

haya4life

Registered
Need more light for night rides in highly forested areas. Can anyone confirm that this setup (two 55w slim ballasts 4500K seperate high and low) will work without any issues:



Rumored:

- Two 55w balasts are too hot, will melt housing

- Two 55w balasts are too much of a load for K8/K9 startup



What's the deal?
 
Unless you start the bike with the high-beam on both ballasts shouldn't be on anyway. With the amount of light they put out the high-beam may not be all that useful to you.
 
Service manual says:

High is 12V 65W (H9)
Low is 12V 55W (H7)
All other lights are LEDs

So wouldn't this be technically 10W less draw when starting even with both low and high engaged? Is the amps the same for halagen vs HID in terms of what the battery sees?
 
I never said it won't do it. You start the bike too often with the high-beam on you'll be replacing it more than practical. If you battery is ever a bit low the bike may not start at all with both lights on anyway. It's just not a very good practice to keep doing it.
 
not really a good idea, blind oncoming cars.....35w are bad enough but a 55w w/ a non-reflector type housing and your 1 huge white blob.........drunks drive towards the light FYI........:laugh:
 
or you could just pm me about a 55w bixenon retro... just a thought.
 
The only thing bad about leaving the lights on when not moving is the heat build up.. I have left my low on for 30 mins or more when A friend wrecked and we were helping him out. Bike started right up.. Plus when you hit the start button the lights go off. Th only bad thing with HID's is the high takes 10 secs to come to life, so flash to pass is not an option unless you've had it on. I hit the start button instead now to flash people, just don't pull in the clutch, it only shuts the headlights off.
 
I have 35w for hi and low ....Car move out of my way in the DAY TIME with the high beam on...lol 55 will be wayyyy 2 much ...lol
 
55W low is the way to go with a switch so that light is not activated with ignition (Great for when your working on bike also as it doesn't drain battery) Low is so good high you will hardly notice plus the constant on / off with high will kill the glode quickly hence the reason to wire in a switch as light comes on with ignition and goes off and back on again at start up. Unless you use clutch/kill button start procedure. Slim ballast are not as good as yet as the standard ballast. (Due to heat build up I believe ?) :thumbsup:
 
i bought both a high and low (5500)
i only end up installing the low,the low has plenty of light.no need for the high(i heard the pass switch will not work properly with the HID installed)
 
ditto on the low only... also trying to flash oncoming with an HID does not work.. end up riding all the time on the low anyway after the HID goes in.. as far as the 55w? I am kind of old and bad eyes... no real need for the 55 over the 35 IMO... (besides, HID lights are illegal on these bikes in the first place.. no point trying to get anymore attention than the 35 gets anyway)

Great upgrade..
 
My 35 watt K6000 blubs are fine. And if there is not enough power to keep the light on it won't even fire. ie my high beam won't stay on if the bike is not running.

As for the High beam I would only use it in the middle of nowhere after all when you turn it on the sun will get jelous.

After I put the HID's on my bike cars stopped pulling out infront of me and cutting me off.
The K6000 gives a slight blue hue making you more visible in dawn/dusk riding. I wanted the K12000 but though that was over the top
 
Mr Bogus said:
ditto on the low only... also trying to flash oncoming with an HID does not work.. end up riding all the time on the low anyway after the HID goes in.. as far as the 55w? I am kind of old and bad eyes... no real need for the 55 over the 35 IMO... (besides, HID lights are illegal on these bikes in the first place.. no point trying to get anymore attention than the 35 gets anyway)

Great upgrade..
Click to expand...

Randy, you crack me up.. I bet you lose sleep at night worrying the light bulb police will knock on your door.

Police - Knock Knock - Are you Mr. Bogus?
Randy - I might be, what did I do? I mean what did he do?
Police - We've been receiving complaints of a track bike Hayabusa with an after market HID headlight, and an older gent riding it, just started dragging his knees on the ground and we are also concerned he may fall off at that age.
Ya know this is a violation of federal DOT regs?
Randy - The HID or knee dragging?
Police- Don't be a smart azz.
Randy - Yes sir (lower lip pooched out)
Police - Well, if you see him would you let him know we want to talk to him?
Randy - Oh yes sir I will. He does not come around here much any more, he is now a male stripper at a local club for old guys that race on open track days. He rides like his butt is on fire now.
Thanks for coming buy officer.

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Disclaimer - Randy is the brother I did not have.... well not really... but he makes me laugh.
 
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35 watts is more than enough for dark dark roads 43k is technically a yellowish light close to that of sunlight depending on where you get your kit from. You don't need a 55 watt system and I haven't seen any busa housings melt from it yet but it is a possibility. For good light you may wanna stick with a 35 watt 6k color temp set up and the 35 watt slim set up is fine for the busa no overheating of the ballast that I can see mine hasn't and I've had it on there for a while.as for the pass light no it wont work well because hid needs about 30 sec to a min to warm up it will work sort of but not in a beneficial way. as bright as they are your visibility to others is much better.
 
Can anyone recommend a high beam halogen bulb that will color match the 6K HID low beam. That should be the best setup.
 
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a retrofit will allow you to use your flash to pass, as well as put lots of light out on the road. and i can do a 55w hi/lo setup.
 
haya4life said:
Can anyone recommend a high beam halogen bulb that will color match the 6K HID low beam. That should be the best setup.
Click to expand...

you'll get close but not right on silverstar is probably the best though here's what mine look like on my gen I high and low 6k hid 35 watt before and after. A retrofit would work because it would have a moving shade inside that would work in conjunction with your pass switch to operate it as a pass feature and you still retain hid due to the fact the shade moves versus the light turning on and off. consider this your bike needs two different bulbs my undrstanding is silverstar doesn't give you that option in one set so for about $70.00 you can switch out to jjust silverstar halogens on both or you can pay a little more for a full hid slim kit that will really light it up or to go even further you can go full hid with a retrofit bixenon housing to see and keep your pass feature just depends on what you want really a 55w is not needed and 35w is better for your bikes electrical system as it draws less power overall.

HPIM0456.jpg


HPIM0480.jpg
 
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