What problems should I be looking for in a very low mile 2000 hayabusa. The bike has less than 5,000 miles on it. Any problems specific to that year?; supposedly the bike has a manual cam tensioner. I know that was a recall in 99 and 00 and what about the sub-frame cracking issues I've heard? Thanks in advance guys/girls!
2000 Hayabusa Question
- Thread starter NickGT
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1. No owner......
Some of the differences/problems might begin with...
Starter kickback pre 01 bikes (never been a problem for me)
Cam tensor (you already covered that)
Lighter weight as your tail frame should be aluminum not Steel (could crack, mine never did)
Clutch chatter if you drag race (can be updated to eliminate)
Old school ECU (I think these are 16 bit while the newer are 32.. ) Again never been a problem or concern..
Different fuel pump/location (Not really a problem, just different)
Front axles retained using different style nut/bolt, Only a diff not a problem.
Headlight doesn't shut off during start up
No passing lights
You get the 220 MPH gauges that other bikes ENVEY!
Just to name a few.
Some of the differences/problems might begin with...
Starter kickback pre 01 bikes (never been a problem for me)
Cam tensor (you already covered that)
Lighter weight as your tail frame should be aluminum not Steel (could crack, mine never did)
Clutch chatter if you drag race (can be updated to eliminate)
Old school ECU (I think these are 16 bit while the newer are 32.. ) Again never been a problem or concern..
Different fuel pump/location (Not really a problem, just different)
Front axles retained using different style nut/bolt, Only a diff not a problem.
Headlight doesn't shut off during start up
No passing lights
You get the 220 MPH gauges that other bikes ENVEY!
Just to name a few.
Sounds like it's not really a big deal from what you've said. It has a "manaul cam chain tensioner" they also have the recall part he said. Is that bad? I dont know much but every vehicle/bike i've ever had has had an automatic one.
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Well, I'd mention the fuel pump and filter, but that was more of a '99 problem than a 2000.
Updating the clutch means changing one of the plates, which can be done on the next oil change. Super easy to do. ~30 minute job if you've never done it.
Cam chain tensioner was a '99 recall, IIRC. Just look at the engine side where the tensioner is. If there's an oil line coming out, you're ok.
If you want the passing light switch, you can go one step further and get the headlight switch. Just hook up with someone in the UK on the boards who has the handlbar switches. Got mine like 4 years ago, but I'm sure you can find them. Direct swap. ~$40-80 each side was the going rate a few years ago, probably about the same now.
Contrary to what you might hear, there is no speed limiter through 2000. So you can get that extra ~7 MPH without having to do anything other than find a long enough road and hold the throttle wide open. Although the 32-bit ECU (added in '03... or was it '05, I can't remember...) will be smoother.
On the subframe, keep the hump on, don't load it full of cargo and, as much as you might be tempted, just say no to fat chicks.
Oh yeah, and you can tell people you're bike goes 220... because the speedo says so.
Updating the clutch means changing one of the plates, which can be done on the next oil change. Super easy to do. ~30 minute job if you've never done it.
Cam chain tensioner was a '99 recall, IIRC. Just look at the engine side where the tensioner is. If there's an oil line coming out, you're ok.
If you want the passing light switch, you can go one step further and get the headlight switch. Just hook up with someone in the UK on the boards who has the handlbar switches. Got mine like 4 years ago, but I'm sure you can find them. Direct swap. ~$40-80 each side was the going rate a few years ago, probably about the same now.
Contrary to what you might hear, there is no speed limiter through 2000. So you can get that extra ~7 MPH without having to do anything other than find a long enough road and hold the throttle wide open. Although the 32-bit ECU (added in '03... or was it '05, I can't remember...) will be smoother.
On the subframe, keep the hump on, don't load it full of cargo and, as much as you might be tempted, just say no to fat chicks.
Oh yeah, and you can tell people you're bike goes 220... because the speedo says so.
Where would I look for the oil line, could you be more descreptive or do you have pics. The guy said they have a "manual tensioner installed" but they have the recall part. As in they have it but it's not installed. Also believe it or not the bike has 3300 miles. Is it possible to fake that? It looks like it only has that many miles judging by paint and whatnot but it still sounds fishy.
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Hey NickGT, I too fell into a rich guy's 2000 6 mos ago with 1300 miles on it....these great deals happen, examine the chain and sprockets, look for wear, is the chain OEM? One link should have a blue surface. Are the tires original Battleaxes? Little clues like is the tool kit intact? Seat surface wear. You know, the common sense lookfors. BTW, the other guys' advice is right on. I heard that the aluminum rear frame issue is incredibly rare and manifests with high rpm vibration, aftermarket pipes and maxed out cargo demands. I just examine mine at oil change time! Enjoy your awesome ride bro! Raydog
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