16 bit ECU to 32 bit Conversion How to




Ludicrous Speed

Registered
I know that these conversions have been done countless times, but I wanted to have a post where all the info was in one thread. I searched and searched and found pieces here and there.

The main reason I wanted to switch to the newer ECU was that the 02-07 ECU's can be reflashed using ECU Editor. This means that I can control my airshifter through the ECU, and have map switching for nitrous use. No more bumping the buttons on a Power Commander to richen it up, no more riding around on the nitrous map that is too rich. Hit the button and go to the dedicated map for nitrous!

Anyway, there are basically two ways to do this swap:

1. Buy a harness, ECU, and ECU rotor off of an 02-07 Busa, switch everything out. You might have to switch bar controls, or at least repin the ones you have. This I am not sure about.

2. Buy an 02-07 ECU and Rotor and switch a few pins out on your existing harness.

Make sure you get the correct ECU, there are a lot of people selling the 99-01 ECUs as the later model. It should have this part number on it:

2012-07-10_14-24-13_741.jpg


Also, the rotor should NOT look like this one, this is the 16 bit. The 32 has little teeth all the way around the outside:

2012-07-10_15-07-41_412.jpg



I chose to go with option two, so I did not have to change the entire harness.

It is very easy, and a person with average skills should be able to do it in less than an hour.

We will start by re-pinning the harness. Take off the seat and remove the factory ECU. Look at the plugs, you will see a large whit tab on one side and two small tabs on the other. This is the lock that holds the wires into the plug. We will be primarily working with the LH plug (as you sit on the bike).

Pic of the tabs, to unlock the pins, press on the large white tab. It will click and the two smaller ones will protrude like the bottom pic below:

2012-07-10_13-31-31_530.jpg


2012-07-10_13-32-24_362.jpg


Here are two pics that describe the pin locations of the plugs. I did not make them, I got them from somewhere during my research, so the credit goes to whomever posted them originally, I suspect Petrik.:thumbsup:

hayabusaconnections.jpg


hayabusaconnections2.gif


NOTE: The second pic is an 02-07 pinout. THis is how your plug should look when you are finished. Print these two pic out and compare them to the plugs. Also notice that the top pic is looking at the ECU side of the plug, NOT the back, where the wires are.

The pins that need moved are as follows:

Pin 36 and Pin 43 get swapped

Pin 60 moves to 53 which is empty

Pin 56 moves to 33 which is empty

The empty holes have a little white plug in them:

2012-07-10_13-33-05_705.jpg


To remove the plug, either pry them out with a small screwdriver, or press them out with a paperclip from the other side. Put these back in the empty holes where you remove the wires to keep out contamination.

I suggest doing the pin swap in the order above. The reason is that the last one (56 to 33) goes from the LH plug to the RH plug. This way you are not trying to manipulate the plug while it is attached by a small wire to the other plug.

Now you are done with the wires, so make sure to re-lock the white locking tab by pressing on the small white tabs till it seats.

Now we move onto the stator. First, remove the stator cover. You will have to gently pry it off enough to grab a hold of the back. Keep in mind that the stator is magnetized and is pulling the cover back onto itself. It WILL bite your fingers if not careful, especially when you re-install it!

I did not take pics of this while doing it, and I am not going to take it back apart, so text will have to do!:whistle:

After you have the cover off, and supported (No need to remove the stator) Grab a 17mm wrench and a small hammer. I removed the bolt on the end of the crank by giving a few good taps on the wrench, and never held the rotor. Once the bolt is out, you will need to use a special tool made by Suzuki, which is around $50, OR you can go to your local auto parts store and buy an oil drainplug that is M20x1.5. I found mine in the HELP section by the window cranks :lol:

2012-07-10_14-22-02_41.jpg


2012-07-10_14-22-18_712.jpg


Screw this where you removed the old bolt, and I gave it a couple taps with a hammer like you wanted to tighten it. The rotor should come right off. Now replace it with the 32 bit rotor, and replace the bolt. Re-install the stator cover (Watch those fingers!) and you should be good to go!

I hope this helps, I spent a lot of time looking for all the info, and found a lot of untrue info as well!
 

Ludicrous Speed

Registered
Another thing some of you might do is tag the wires that you move, in case you get them wrong. If not you will never figure out where they came from...
 

Ludicrous Speed

Registered
It figures that when I was installing the ECU flashing harness, I broke a pin:banghead:

Greg Smith at Boost by Smith is taking care of me, he has the BEST customer service!:thumbsup:
 

garth285

Registered
I know this post is a few months old but I gotta hand it to you Ludicrous Speed you really are awesome for posting this!!!

I have 2 bikes, one is a turbo drag bike that had the 00' electronics on it and I have a 06 big tire show bike that really doesn't need any more power since its got a big ole 300 tires on it... So I swapped ECU's and rotors between the bikes and re-pinned the connectors and the bike fired up right away!!!!

Picked up a 20x1.5 drain plug for less than $3.00 today so I was able to do the rotor swap and she's golden!

Thanks for the clear directions and pictures of the swap as it really helped out!
 

SoCal Blur

Registered
I will be using your instructions as well in the next couple of week. Already got my drain plug from Pep Boys for around $3.00 :laugh:
 

SoCal Blur

Registered
I'm currently in the middle of doing the 16bit to 32bit ECU/Rotor swap on my 2000. The instructions contained in this thread are great but can be confusing when it comes to the pin swaps and moves...primarily because the instructions show the 32bit pin out and from the ECU connector as far as numbering. Well, you're not working on a 32bit ECU, you're working on the harness ECU plugs on a 16bit machine. So, I've attached something that I hope will clear up any confusion for anyone attempting to do this mod.

This picture represents what you are looking when you have just removed the plugs that were attached to your 16bit ECU:

ECU Pin SwapSM.jpg
 

GIXERHP

ok, ok...just a wee bit Irish...
Donating Member
Registered
Very nice!
I'm currently in the middle of doing the 16bit to 32bit ECU/Rotor swap on my 2000. The instructions contained in this thread are great but can be confusing when it comes to the pin swaps and moves...primarily because the instructions show the 32bit pin out and from the ECU connector as far as numbering. Well, you're not working on a 32bit ECU, you're working on the harness ECU plugs on a 16bit machine. So, I've attached something that I hope will clear up any confusion for anyone attempting to do this mod.

This picture represents what you are looking when you have just removed the plugs that were attached to your 16bit ECU:
 

JohnnyDangerous

Registered
Thanks, just waiting for a reply back from BoostBySmith as I need a few other parts at the same time and need to know they all work together.
 
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