00 Busa surging and sputtering under 3000 RPMs

The only problems wid stuttering under 3000 rpm is when you shanges exhaust to a more open system
whid lover resistans.
 
My 05 idled fine, no codes, and ran fine after 2,500 , but when trying to pull out from a dead stop, would hesistate and stumble and it got so bad, I would wait for no traffic coming, because it was getting real bad. It ran fine in the higher r's, but no codes or other symptoms. It was actually the coils crapping out. I got some used ones cheap on ebay, and ran smooth as butter again. I would have swore that it couldn't be that, because usaually when you get weak spark, coils going bad, etc, it would ususally be good down low and start acting up in higher rpms or under more of a load. I could not believe it, but the coils cured it, but if you can pick up a few used ones off ebay, or borrow a friends just to try, that might be worth looking into.
 
I have searched and tried some things but no real luck. I am running out of ideas. I have a 00 Busa with about 60K on it Two Brothers Exhaust PCII Small Airbox mod and a BMC race filter. I dont think the mods are the problem because I have had them for some time and it ran beautiful. Last year I started having this issue. I replaced the plugs cleaned the air filter, Took the fuel filter out screens out of the injectors they all looked great but I took them out anyway. I had the TPS set the valves adjusted. I am at the end of my rope. At idle it will surge and kind of miss or something, but not all of the time. Sometimes when you try and take off putting a load its fine others it spits and surges, if you rev it up it seems like it cleans out and runs OK when it acts up. Under 3K it surges very badly. Not all of the time again but most of the time. Now I know fuel injected cars have open and closed loop for the computer to control the fuel. The bike runs much better when it is cold. Also the FI light has come on twice in the last couple years. Is there a way to check the codes like a car? Is there a closed and open loop fuel setting? I am considering having the injectors cleaned and set. Are there any other ideas has anyone found a fix for this as I have seen this problem before on the board. It feels like a half of a miss on one cylinder. Not a complete miss because you would really feel that. Please what ever you all can come up with for ideas. I love my bike and it has given me years of great dependable riding, but this is driving me crazy...[/QUOTE
When you do the airboxmodification you will loose some torque at lower rpm's. Above 3000rpm's you will win between 2 and 4 hp's. It is recommended to use a powercommanderbox to correct the air/fuelratio, because when you have done the airboxmodification you will feel some little dips in the lower rpm's.

Responding to low rpm hesitation.
 
Hey guys i hope this helps you out, after my 99 started the hesitation problem under 4k RPM which is a real drag when you 're just cruising, I started checking blogs .Here's the issue it's fine under acceleration but when you are going at a constant speed under 4k it hesitates or jerks, i have taken it to the shop four times each time it was better but would start again shortly afterward sometimes going weeks with no issues. but the problem always came back they re mapped it, checked for vacum leaks tweaked and calibrated but never fixed it somtimes it would be intermittant sometimes not but always a drag when you want to ride, not to mention embarrising when cruising a low speed and your engine exhaust note is cutting in and out like your bike is having a seizure. But i ran across an article on here that talked about the same problem even had a link to buy the fuel pump(on Ebay) color photos of complete job, basically it was just replacing your fuel pump with a new one and cleaning or replacing the cartridge filters in the pump housing. in my case it was not really the pump but the hose attached to it the clamp had broken so it was creating a vacum leak in the line which would limit the amount of fuel pressure it could maintain. this is after i gave them the pump last time and asked them to install it they said no problem it was good and did not put it in I'm in Korea so i know the mechanics here are not all the best. so this time i showed the article from the site with pictures and then they understood. It Fixed the problem and seems to have more power now just in time to put it up for winter snow expected tomorrow........dang!
 
I have searched and tried some things but no real luck. I am running out of ideas. I have a 00 Busa with about 60K on it Two Brothers Exhaust PCII Small Airbox mod and a BMC race filter. I dont think the mods are the problem because I have had them for some time and it ran beautiful. Last year I started having this issue. I replaced the plugs cleaned the air filter, Took the fuel filter out screens out of the injectors they all looked great but I took them out anyway. I had the TPS set the valves adjusted. I am at the end of my rope. At idle it will surge and kind of miss or something, but not all of the time. Sometimes when you try and take off putting a load its fine others it spits and surges, if you rev it up it seems like it cleans out and runs OK when it acts up. Under 3K it surges very badly. Not all of the time again but most of the time. Now I know fuel injected cars have open and closed loop for the computer to control the fuel. The bike runs much better when it is cold. Also the FI light has come on twice in the last couple years. Is there a way to check the codes like a car? Is there a closed and open loop fuel setting? I am considering having the injectors cleaned and set. Are there any other ideas has anyone found a fix for this as I have seen this problem before on the board. It feels like a half of a miss on one cylinder. Not a complete miss because you would really feel that. Please what ever you all can come up with for ideas. I love my bike and it has given me years of great dependable riding, but this is driving me crazy...[/QUOTE
When you do the airboxmodification you will loose some torque at lower rpm's. Above 3000rpm's you will win between 2 and 4 hp's. It is recommended to use a powercommanderbox to correct the air/fuelratio, because when you have done the airboxmodification you will feel some little dips in the lower rpm's.

Responding to low rpm hesitation.
 
Hey guys i hope this helps you out, after my 99 started the hesitation problem under 4k RPM which is a real drag when you 're just cruising, I started checking blogs .Here's the issue it's fine under acceleration but when you are going at a constant speed under 4k it hesitates or jerks, i have taken it to the shop four times each time it was better but would start again shortly afterward sometimes going weeks with no issues. but the problem always came back they re mapped it, checked for vacum leaks tweaked and calibrated but never fixed it somtimes it would be intermittant sometimes not but always a drag when you want to ride, not to mention embarrising when cruising a low speed and your engine exhaust note is cutting in and out like your bike is having a seizure. But i ran across an article on here that talked about the same problem even had a link to buy the fuel pump(on Ebay) color photos of complete job, basically it was just replacing your fuel pump with a new one and cleaning or replacing the cartridge filters in the pump housing. in my case it was not really the pump but the hose attached to it the clamp had broken so it was creating a vacum leak in the line which would limit the amount of fuel pressure it could maintain. this is after i gave them the pump last time and asked them to install it they said no problem it was good and did not put it in I'm in Korea so i know the mechanics here are not all the best. so this time i showed the article from the site with pictures and then they understood. It Fixed the problem and seems to have more power now just in time to put it up for winter snow expected tomorrow........dang!
 
I went to great lengths diagnosing this. Changed the coils, messed with the exhaust, fiddled with electronics, changed fuel pump, verified tappet clearance, messed with vacuum routing, checked and changed valve timing, pulled head to clean, inspect, and lap valves, etc, etc.... No real change.

I had some mitsubishi injectors with similar flow rates to the busa's. Put those in to see what would happen. Fixed it. The injectors must have been partially clogged or just weren't flowing right. I had previously ruled out the injectors because I had ultrasonically cleaned them and they looked to be spraying correctly. However, I don't think they were flow tested. Now bike just sputters a little at real low throttle and rpm, but that's almost surely just the stupid airbox mod.

Highly recommend looking at injectors closely for this type of problem.
 
I believe it is the IAPS intake air pressure switch
I would have to look it up for the specific name, but there is a vaccum sensor that bolts to the back left side of the airbox.

I chased the surge for almost a year on and off, I could even get it to go away and then it would come back. Make sure none of the vaccum lines are pinched and I would use the troubleshooting guide of your manual and start testing the FI sensors.
 
okay if you don't have the little tool
then most guys make up a jumper and place into the socket
you then need to turn bike on and it should show up on dash usually where the time is displayed
i have the code reader and can run the bike with it on
I am having problems with mine as well and have been riding it with code reader activated but no codes being displayed yet
good luck
I dont can anyone post on here how to do this?
 
Oooo no can do my bike is a 2002 not sure what year car they come from. My bike is turbo and came installed. Have you searched the Web yet?
 
Just out of curiosity, and not trying to thread jump or cross post as I posted a thread earlier with my similar symptoms..but on my 99 when I turn the TPS to the extreme "up" direction, dash is high on the cluster, the stutter at that rpm goes away instantly although the bike runs super rich, like enough you can smell it standing near it. Anyone else have similar result?
 
Just out of curiosity, and not trying to thread jump or cross post as I posted a thread earlier with my similar symptoms..but on my 99 when I turn the TPS to the extreme "up" direction, dash is high on the cluster, the stutter at that rpm goes away instantly although the bike runs super rich, like enough you can smell it standing near it. Anyone else have similar result?

I'm working on a similar rich/bucking/dying issue with my '99 right now. TPS was very high and I got about 80 highway miles out of the last tank. Found that the previous owner had drilled holes through the screens in the fuel pump to increase flow or something. Now today I just got a C42 code and am trying to find the cause of that. Any tips appreciated.
 
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Solved mine:

C42 Code - May just have a broken/pinched wire, just wiggled the fuse box wires and it turned off
Fuel Pump - Put a new one in. Not sure that was a problem, but good to know. Bought on eBay from Hamilton Motorsports, great pump
Bucking - The vacuum line from the throttle bodies to the IAT had fallen off. Hooked it up and changed spark plugs, runs like a champ now! Very smooth and fast!
 
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