Steel rear sprocket vs aluminum for Gen 3

Gen3lover

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I want to add a blue rear sprocket to my 2022 but Vortex only offers aluminum.
I think a steel sprocket is more durable but can’t seem to find what I want in blue.
I don’t ride the bike that hard. No wheelies or drag strip stuff so maybe aluminum would be ok?
Maybe I can get a blue steel sprocket in another brand?
What do you guys think?

sixpack577

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www.sprocketcenter.com

Contact these guys, if they don't have it, or can't get it for you...it doesn't exhist.
They are excellent to deal with too.

888-265-2141

Gen3lover

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I’m concerned about aluminum being a softer metal than steel but I guess it’s not a big deal.

sixpack577

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I’m concerned about aluminum being a softer metal than steel but I guess it’s not a big deal.

Nope, I've abused alot of aluminum sprockets, and they are hard to damage.
No worries.
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Dnyce

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You can powder coat your stock one but honestly just go aluminum

dcnblues

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I’m concerned about aluminum being a softer metal than steel but I guess it’s not a big deal.
You're only going to get half the mileage, and having it wear at a different rate from the front sprocket can affect the chain, and the chain can affect the rear tire ( like premature wear). I much prefer Steel on the outside aluminum on the inside. And if you don't know how to find the tight spot in your chain when you are adjusting the tension, read up on it or have your mechanic teach you how. Took me way too many rear tires to learn that the chain can be the culprit for rubber melting off.

sixpack577

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Aluminum sprockets do not last as long as steel, as it is a simply a softer material.
However, that soft aluminum is not damaging a hardened steel chain.
Aluminum sprockets do not cause tight chain links, poor maintenance does.
Aluminum sprockets also do no effect rear tire wear.
Assuming the axle is properly tightened, and square in the swingarm, tire wear is based on psi, road and weather conditions, suspension settings, and rider weight.
A properly adjusted chain and the rear tire do not care if the rear sprocket is steel or aluminum.
Top of the line sprocket manufacturers would not make aluminum rear sprockets if that were the case.
As someone who has abused many aluminum rear sprockets on multiple bikes, with countless wheelies and hard launches, I have broken multiple teeth...which is to be expected...but the properly adjusted chains never slipped.
I have been setting up many suspensions for a very a long time, and can read tires well...and the aluminum rear sprockets never had any effect on that whatsoever.
I have also maintained several bikes with aluminum rear sprockets that were ridden hard, but not launched hard or wheelied, and those sprockets lasted a very long time, and took a long time to show any wear(thinning or hooking teeth).
So No, aluminum rear sprockets do Not last as long as steel, as the material simply is not as strong...however, for most street riders, you will never have an issue with them, and if you abuse them, they simply wear out faster...they cause no other side effects or problems.

dcnblues

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dcnblues

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Well here's a news flash, chain stretch isn't stretch at all. This actually blows my mind a little. The rollers, over time, are cutting grooves in the links. So the metal isn't stretching at all, it's just getting cut. Learn something new everyday:

dcnblues

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Well it turns out that I know nothing about motorcycles. Tight spots in the chain can be the sprocket. Nobody ever told me that, always thought it was a problem with individual chain links. This seems a really strong reason to buy reputable brands as you can clearly get what you pay for (And that it's good to verify that the Sprocket was bolted on carefully and appropriately). Tight spots can absolutely wear out a rear tire prematurely. This is a great diagnostic tool that I'm going to start using:

dcnblues

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Aaaand this also seems like a great potential fix. Basically instead of balancing a tire, you do it for the sprocket. I wish I had learned this 30 years ago...

sixpack577

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So you have a defective out of round sprocket, or a loose rear sprocket, of course the chain will bind in that spot...but it's not wearing a tire.
Tight links also stay bent and don't move freely with the other links, and I didn't see any of those, just spots pointed out as being tight.

sixpack577

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A chain passing over and out of round sprocket will be tight as it passes the highest spot.
A chain running over a sprocket that is loose, or has thick and thin spots, which would cause excessive run-out, will not cause tight links, but it will be at risk of throwing the chain off.
The high tooth or teeth, or tooth or teeth with excessive run-out do not tatget individual links.
If you have that much of an issue it should be immediately noticeable, as it would be excessive.
You will find that a non o-ring chain gets lots of tight links, as there is nothing to keep dirt and moisture out of the inner pins.
On an o-ring chain, tight links commonly have broken o-rings, so dirt and moisture has gotten in.
If not, clean and lube the chain and the tight links can be fixed.
If not, the chain is worn out.
Chain stretch is when the pins wear inside, and the chain itself IS actually longer, this is not as common with newer chain technology/stronger materials.
Do chains need adjusted as sprocket teeth wear? Yes, and the outer chain pins are wearing also, so there is more slack.
These are parts that wear out.
If you keep the chain clean and adjusted correctly(steel or aluminum rear sprocket), then you will not have problems for 20k-30k+ miles.
Also, if you have an aluminum rear wheel in good shape, with minumum run-out, or a spoked wheel, with all the spokes adjusted and the wheel trued/minimum run-out, so either wheel is straight.
And, the axle is even in the swingarm(with good wheel bearings) then that wheel will spin in the swingarm with minimum run-out.
Now, put on a bent, thick and thin with maximum run-out, or out of round sprocket(s) and watch them wobble.
The chain will 'pop' as the pins pass over misaligned teeth, and the chain may slip or jump off...but unless it pulls the axle out of alignment, which it cannot, assuming the axle adjustmenf is correct and cannot move...then the wheel is going to still spin true, with minimum run-out...the chain and sprockets cannot effect tire wear...with one exception.
If the chain is too tight, then it limits the travel of the rear shock, which will cause the rear suspension to be too stiff, and bounce about, causing poor tire wear.
But, if the chain is adjusted Correctly, then the suspension travels Correctly, and the sprockets or tight chains links have no othet effect on the tire.
Not everyone on youtube is correct.
You can spot a tight chain link from 20' away with good eyesight, and the chain in the video was straight through it's entire rotation.

phalse

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i'm guilty of using that slick motionpro chain adjuster tool, a fairly simple but well made gadget. then about 73 years later i realized that adjusting the rear wheel so that its "square to the chain" or straight where the chain is concerned is nonsense.

you want it square/straight relative to the swingarm, or better yet the swingarm pivot/frame as a whole. if its well and truly straight, it'll be fine with respect to the chain itself, which is a flexible item that can move and twist this way and that, even laterally to a small degree.

someones rear wheel not quite being as straight in the swingarm as they *think* it was is often the culprit for funky tire wear, seen that on a track day a dozen times.

...just not on MY tire =D after the first time, anyway.
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