what oil are you running in the busa???
- Thread starter chrisr
- Start date
Revlis...what does "full ester" indicate?[/QUOTE]
Its a pure synthetic . I use Amsoil motorcycle syn.
me too!
Do a search you'll find several treads on this topic.
Perhaps I'm confused. Is there a difference between pure synthetic and full synthetic? What does "full ester" mean?[/QUOTE]
Ester refers to the type of oil used in the base stock. Typically synthetic oils use a blend of different types of oils for their base stock with each type selected for whatever characteristics it brings to the oil. Sometimes cost is the main factor in the ingredients.
Pure synthetic and full synthetic are marketing terms and just mean that the oil is not a synthetic blend (with dino). There was a court case where Mobil sued Castrol for claiming that one of the latter's oils were synthetic when really it was dino that was ultra refined. Castrol won so now there are oils called synthetic that are not really much different than regular old dino.
The true synthetics are made with PAO's (polyalphaolefins - eg. mobil, amsoil) or esters (polyolesters or diesters - silkolene, motul, redline).
Ester oils are usually expensive, especially the ones that are 100%, but they are also considered to be the best as they are more resistant to burn off and flow better at cold temps. Also, they are polar, i.e. their ions are charged so that they cling to the metal in the engine much better than other types of synthetics or dino.
Of course the additive package is very important too. Do a search on oil and you'll find tons of info. Look for posts by mountainmotor - he's very knowledgable about this topic
Hope this helps
Now you have opened up a giant can O worms. I use Mobil 1 5w30. You know the stuff that will make your clutch slip. I dont think it matters what you use as long as its a quality oil and it is changed on a regular basis. I may have to try silkolene or motul just to see about the better operating transmission
cosmo
Registered
Hope this helps [/QUOTE]
Thanks for the tutorial drumminman. You obviously know your chem-tech. PAO's and Esters now make sense. Looks like Mobil supplies these materials to the other manufacturers.
http://www.exxonmobilchemical.com/Public_....iew.asp
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Thanks for the tutorial drumminman. You obviously know your chem-tech. PAO's and Esters now make sense. Looks like Mobil supplies these materials to the other manufacturers.
http://www.exxonmobilchemical.com/Public_....iew.asp
<!--EDIT|newmill
Reason for Edit: None given...|1137261849 -->
Are you expecting something to go wrong in 1500 miles due to the brand of oil you're using?
You can fill your crankcase with the used oil from the fryer vats at McDonalds and go 1500 with no problems.
I'll be impressed with Brand X oil when someone claims 150,000+ miles on a Busa engine.
I'd still love to hear just one person tell me how they wore out a car, motorcycle or lawnmower engine prematurely due to the brand of oil they used even after changing it as per manufacturers recommendations.
Quick question on the amsoil.
Does the XLO version now carry an OFFICIAL API rating?
I've noticed the deceptive advertising (aka clever wording) on their web site in the past about API certifications.
They go out of their way to mention the official API certification of the FEW oils they sell that actually meet that requirement.
On the rest of their product line they say things like:
<span style='color:red'>....recommended for all domestic and foreign vehicles requiring any of the listed performance specifications:
XLO 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil
API SM/CF, SL, SJ ...
ACEA A1/B1
JASO VTW</span>
That's nice that they "recommend it" for those specs but does the oil actually have the official certification for say API SJ?
Can you look at one of your bottles of XLO and tell us what it says?
If your bike or car is under warranty and suffers an internal engine failure (no matter what the cause) what's going to happen when you show the dealer a receipt for an oil that didn't meet their API specs?
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