NGK CR9EK sparkplugs

Your kidding right? You know when you use a gapping tool to set the distance between the center post and grounding electrodes,usually in thousandts or millimeters.
 
Hey guys just want to tell you that my bike is running so freakin smooth all the way up to the rev limiter.I attribute this in part to the NGK plugs I installed ,for those of you who dont know the CR9EK`s are the dual electrode plugs everything else is the same as the stock plug.The spark is open to the cylinder and not shrouded like in the stock plugs.I figure most of us do a tune up over the winter and this is a cheap mod the plugs run from 8.50 to 12.50 each depending on where you buy them.I have had good luck with these plugs in my other bike in which I put 18,000 miles on in two years and had no problems.Make sure you gap them before you install them .

[This message has been edited by gsx1300rguy (edited 22 December 1999).]
 
Nope, not kidding. I'm actually still not sure what you are referring to. All I've ever done is take the old plug out and put the new one in.

Am I missing a step?
 
The busa has a specific gap setting for its spark plugs which maximixe the burn and minimize the corrosion and build up, if you dont gap them properly then you arent getting the full performance.

~BP
 
I've used CR9EK's in my 7R for 2 1/2 years (and gobs of miles). I would use NOTHING else!

[This message has been edited by redelk (edited 23 December 1999).]
 
Factory, please give yourself a Christmas present and buy the book "Sportbike Performance Handbook" by Kevin Cameron.

You read this sucker three times and you'll be ready to spin serious wrenches :)
 
These are stock plugs on Kawasaki`s zx`s Do they have a super duper ignition system?The power required for a spark to jump across a gap is constant as long as conditions in the chamber and the resistance is the same through the resistor.I also got the use our platinum plugs from NGK so I did an ohm check through both plugs(cr9&cr9ek) and they were very close.If the spark went through both electrodes at once I could see there point but electricity always goes to the path of least resistance.This I do know!The platinums may have less throug resistance than standard nickle alloy plugs and that may be what he`s talking about.I feel that an open flame front is more efficiant than a shrouded one .My Toyota 3.4 V6 recommends dual electrode plugs and says that loss of horsepower and fuel efficiancy will result if you use single ground electrode plugs not that has any thing to do with a Busa but it`s curious . I do not have a degree in thermodynamics and combustion engineering or have I done extensive reliability and dyno testing. I think they want to sell there platinium plugs.Which in the past on different vehicles I`ve had nothing but bad luck with :(.This was just a suggestion to help out the Busa guys with alternatives that I`ve had good luck with .If NGK doesn`t recommend theses plugs than the choice is yours.I run them and so far so good.Damn to much coffee :)




[This message has been edited by gsx1300rguy (edited 08 January 2000).]
 
Anyone tried the autolite 4302 yet...you can get them for 1.39 at Advance...beats 5 bucks at dealer...they`ve also got NGK for 1.89 each...
 
By the way CR9EK are 4.45 each ...dealer..thats how much your local dealer makes on each plug....if they buy a 100 they get them for 4.25.....
 
I talked to NGK about this plug, and they didn't recommend them with the stock ignition system: they require higher energy to fire properly and the system is not designed to handle the increased load reliably. They recommended the CR9EVX as the premium plug for the busa (the best single electrode plug they make), which will perform the same or better than the EK's on a stock ignition system with the same energy requirements than the stock E's.
NGK phone number is (949)580-0668.
JC
 
Sounds stupid, but how do you properly GAP these dual electrode plugs?

When I tried to increase the too tight standard distance I saw that it looked like you were bending the center electrode one way and then the other more than bending the ground electrode that I intended to bend/push open???
 
Oh man if you tweaked the center post **** can the plugs or you will have little pieces of metal in your combustion chamber!They make a tool that is made just for this purpose...get it ,it`ll save you hassels in the long run :).It looks like a disc with little "T`s" that have notches to grab the ground electrodes and bend them with out touching the center post.Good luck!
 
GSX: I'm an engineer but not that kind, so we are on the same boat. I might have been taken for a ride by this NGK guy, but I have no idea how they engineer their plugs and can't argue with them. I think we all took physics 101 and know how a plug works in general, but the busa uses tiny wimpy little coils driven by the computer/ignition box, and any damage will be serious money. I'll be very pissed if those stupid plugs cost more than yours, but I just wanted to play it safe. I'll probably use the stock ones next time. By the way, can you rub the platinum center electrode with the feeler gauge when checking the gap?
 
The difference in the coil set up is that on a standard 4cyl motorcycle`s ignition system is 1 coil for 2 plugs the coils fire the 2 plugs at the same time.The busa as we know has a dedicated coil for each plug as far as it`s output capability ,voltage saturation,in/out efficiancy ,ratings I honestly dont know,What I do know is that as long as total resistance is the same for a given voltage,power required for the spark/jump is the same.As far as measuring the gap on a platinum plug with out touching the center post .I wouldn`t have any idea besides a very expensive laser measuring device,lol.I do think an engineer who devolops plugs has a better understanding of this whole thing and most engineering is done with a saftey factor...but if we Busa guys were totally concerned about safety we wouldn`t be Busa guys :).We`d be moped guys :) :) :)



[This message has been edited by gsx1300rguy (edited 11 January 2000).]
 
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