NGK Plugs

[Mr Bogus]

AHHH Great I hate when you guys say different things. Ok which will work better with a dry 50 shot?

all bets off on this change... A spark plug is a pretty simple device in operation but kind of complex in build.. When you go to nitrous, you increase combustion pressures and temps..

An overly "hot" plug will cause serious issues as the electrodes will literally turn into a glow plug. A cooler plug (normally the electrode will be shorter/stumpier to help pull heat away faster) can resist this glow plug effect.. I would step down at least 1 heat range to start and have that thing on the dyno before ever going on the street..

I would also suggest you have an veteran tuner at the throttle or you will be buying some new stuff (I have a few years of nitrous use on drag hydro with 200-500hp shots and a good amount of street cars, never dry however) Nitrous is an inert gas until it is heated, it then releases an extra o2 molecule (why you need more fuel).. that extra 02 can turn into a cutting torch really fast...

That said.. sparkplugs pretty much work or dont work.. if you pick up power from a change, either the old ones were shot or you have a tuning issue underlying the plug change.

I have maybe 2000 hours of hard core dyno time on race motors and a spark plug stands a much better chance of hurting your numbers than helping..

7500M is pretty short (sounds like a profit issue to me) and I got 20,000+ out of the stock NGK plug. The change to new ones did nothing (at least obviously percievable)

30 years of the garage business and 20 or more of racing, you get to see a lot of funny stuff....

Top fuel motor for instance.. after lit, you can take the magnetos off and throw them away, it will keep on running on a pass..

We ran low 5's with this little gem in the 1/4 it got new plugs every run..(usually melted the electrodes out of them)

 

[Pinky Winky]

all bets off on this change... A spark plug is a pretty simple device in operation but kind of complex in build.. When you go to nitrous, you increase combustion pressures and temps..

An overly "hot" plug will cause serious issues as the electrodes will literally turn into a glow plug. A cooler plug (normally the electrode will be shorter/stumpier to help pull heat away faster) can resist this glow plug effect.. I would step down at least 1 heat range to start and have that thing on the dyno before ever going on the street..

I would also suggest you have an veteran tuner at the throttle or you will be buying some new stuff (I have a few years of nitrous use on drag hydro with 200-500hp shots and a good amount of street cars, never dry however) Nitrous is an inert gas until it is heated, it then releases an extra o2 molecule (why you need more fuel).. that extra 02 can turn into a cutting torch really fast...

That said.. sparkplugs pretty much work or dont work.. if you pick up power from a change, either the old ones were shot or you have a tuning issue underlying the plug change.

I have maybe 2000 hours of hard core dyno time on race motors and a spark plug stands a much better chance of hurting your numbers than helping..

7500M is pretty short (sounds like a profit issue to me) and I got 20,000+ out of the stock NGK plug. The change to new ones did nothing (at least obviously percievable)

30 years of the garage business and 20 or more of racing, you get to see a lot of funny stuff....

Top fuel motor for instance.. after lit, you can take the magnetos off and throw them away, it will keep on running on a pass..

We ran low 5's with this little gem in the 1/4 it got new plugs every run..(usually melted the electrodes out of them)

So......... which plugs do I need if no nitrous?

 

[Spudley]

CR9E's, CR9EK's, or iridium.....any of the above... Happy tuning......

Don't bother with the hotter / cooler plug issues until you've got some experience at doing so. When I used to drag VW's we were building 300+-400+ hp, and you'd be amazed at the BTU output differences in a plug choice.....

 

[Spudley]

Double post, for some dumb reason. NEVERRRR-MIND.....

 

[Benesesso]

>"Top fuel motor for instance.. after lit, you can take the magnetos off and throw them away, it will keep on running on a pass.."<

Guess that's why they run dual mags with huge outputs---.

>"We ran low 5's with this little gem in the 1/4 it got new plugs every run..(usually melted the electrodes out of them)"<

Er, except that funny car/TF plugs have the side electrode up inside the threads. Google a Champion N54R.

If you were running exposed side-electrode plugs, that might be why you could run them as glow plugs. How many pistons did you hole?

 

[race24x]

You guys are gonna slap me, but 40,000 on the stock plugs. I didnt read the manual and just this year thought I shold be looking at replacing them. I felt a little surge when trying to cruise along at slow speeds and thought hmmm I havent ever changed these plugs.

 

[Zoinks!]

Nitrous is an inert gas until it is heated, it then releases an extra o2 molecule (why you need more fuel).. that extra 02 can turn into a cutting torch really fast...

I've always wondered why going lean, especially while running nitrous could do so much damage. Never took the time to look up the chemistry behind it. Thanks for the info!

 

[celticBandit]

Iridium may last longer but who here actually waits until a plug fails. Personally I change them at regular intervals anyway, so I'd never wait for one to fail.

 

[Zoinks!]

So......... which plugs do I need if no nitrous?

If you aren't running nitrous and your bike is either stock or just has some minor bolt ons you can run either the factory, or irridium plugs. The later might last longer, but you won't hurt anything by going with the factory plugs. If you're running nitrous or have some major upgrades which create higher combustion temps I'd do like Bogus said and run a cooler plug.

 

[rubber2burn]

Run what you can afford. I bet if you call Johnny he will tell you what he would do if you ask him

 

[Commuta_Busa]

just about everyone is right in this thread

Your question put simply is if NGK Iridium plugs are any better than the non iridium plugs by NGK.

The simple answer is yes, the design of the Iridium plug is an improvement over the older standard plug design which therefore indicates it's better. This doesn't mean that standard plugs are a bad design or that you must get the Iridium plugs.

This day and age requires more than a few people to be more price conscious. This is more of a personal factor for each individual and is a decision you need to make for yourself.