mystery oil leak

finally got it out. it wasn't a washer, something else that was obviously hammered in. it had a seal with a spring behind for the tension and alot more caulk inside. the leak probably was at the bent bottom area(see pic). but behind it is another bulkhead. looks to be something that's supposed to be in there but i'm not too sure (it is stamped japan though). hopefully the local parts counter has this in stock. the wife will check tomorrow (it does what it's told).

clutch pushrod 002.jpg

clutch pushrod 003.jpg

clutch pushrod 002.jpg


clutch pushrod 003.jpg
 
use a small body slide hammer. Put a sheet metal screw the size of what will screw into the seal rubber portion. The screw is "screw" into the seal and fixed to the slide hammer. Simply use the slide hammer to pop the seal out. Works well. Wardie
 
use a small body slide hammer. Put a sheet metal screw the size of what will screw into the seal rubber portion. The screw is "screw" into the seal and fixed to the slide hammer. Simply use the slide hammer to pop the seal out. Works well. Wardie

The old slide-hammer trick....niiiiice !..... :oldcool:
 
got the new seal today! problem. the thing that i took out WAS the right part, just installed wrong. VERY wrong. the whole assembly is metal coated with rubber. i can't see any way of getting it in without taking the whole motor apart. any suggestions from someone that may have done this?
 
i would try finding a socket the same size in diameter as the seal and use that as a driving wedge, so you can tap it into place...looking at your pictures it appears the edge of the hole where the seal will make contact is pretty chewed up...i woud assume the privous owner wacked it a few times with a hammer....you may have to figure out a way to clean that up and make it true again....
 
I would take off the water pump, and sprocket to give you more room.
Round out and tidy up the old hole like djsin suggested. Don't make it too big or the seal will fall out.
It is just friction fit.
In looking at that seal the hole in the center is the part that needs to stop the oil from coming through, and the oil behind it is not under pressure, but just splashes onto the rod.
You could try and cut a small bevel onto the back of the seal, so when you start it, it will go in easier.
Use a proper sized bearing seater, or a socket turned backwards to gently drive it in.
Put a little grease in the center hole, before you put the rod back in.

Good luck
 
it fits into a groove in hte block. i wish that it was a friction fit. as for making it into one, i already thought anout that one. the only worry is taking too much off and completely screwing the block.
 
it fits into a groove in hte block. i wish that it was a friction fit. as for making it into one, i already thought anout that one. the only worry is taking too much off and completely screwing the block.

If that does happen, you could always put a dab of gasket silicone on the edges to hold it in.
Get the high temp stuff and you would be fine.
(Just a dab, not a whole tube like the last guy)
 
Mine was leaking from the water pump, i believe it was the O-ring. It was also under warranty at the time
 
If you look closely at your cases, some one has removed the lip that hold the seal in place!
It also looks like some has welded around where the seal is supposed to be installed!
This seal is not supposed to be changed without splitting the cases!
The piece behind the seal is a bearing for the transmission!

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but i would recommend having a machine shop look at and try to have the cases repaired to where the seal is held in by the cases like it should be!
If you fix it like this now, it will leak again!
 
I borrowed this pic from the other post, this is what you should see!

The new seal is larger than the opening!

2.JPG
 
the groove is still there, but i do need to clean the hole back up. the face of it got really boogered up by somebody's hammer
 
how hard is it to split the case? doesn't look too bad, but i'd like some thoughts from those who may have ventured here before. honestly looks harder to remove the motor than take it apart.
 
Professor says you don't have to take the motor out to split the cases.
Ping Professor.
Are you out there?
 
looking at the repair manual it doesn't look like you really NEED to, but it might be easier in the long run. the way that i have it figured right now is that i only need to remove the clutch and ststor covers, not the whole assemblies. well, hopefully.
 
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