APE high volume oil pump gear probelm

Never here’s about it before
This is the first time I've heard of an Accusump too.

He said the gear is really for idle. anything under 2,000 RPM. After that the pressure relief is what matters. Also said he had mixed feelings about it but using both wouldn't hurt.
I had an oil gauge on a ZX-14 with stock oil pressure relief valve and stock oil pump gear. The oil pressure rose quickly to 60 psi at 4000 rpm and then the needle just stayed there until the rpm dropped below 4000 again. Based on that, I'd say an aftermarket oil pump gear would have gotten the oil pressure to 60 psi at about 2000-2500 rpm. The oil pressure would still not go higher than 60 psi though. If the valve opens at 60 psi, that's what your max oil pressure is no matter how fast the motor turns. The aftermarket relief valve by itself was recommended to me by most people who advised me. The gear uses additional horsepower at all rpm. I can see how the high volume gear with or without the aftermarket relief valve would be of benefit at low rpm and that might be more important for a turbo.

However, Aly's problem seems to be having the high volume gear, not NOT having it. Further, I think he said he heard the engine knocking while the bike was idling in the garage. From our conversation, that would be the rpm at which a high volume gear would actually have been increasing oil pressure. Increased oil pressure shouldn't cause decreased lubrication to rod bearings. The problem remains a mystery.
 
This is the first time I've heard of an Accusump too.


I had an oil gauge on a ZX-14 with stock oil pressure relief valve and stock oil pump gear. The oil pressure rose quickly to 60 psi at 4000 rpm and then the needle just stayed there until the rpm dropped below 4000 again. Based on that, I'd say an aftermarket oil pump gear would have gotten the oil pressure to 60 psi at about 2000-2500 rpm. The oil pressure would still not go higher than 60 psi though. If the valve opens at 60 psi, that's what your max oil pressure is no matter how fast the motor turns. The aftermarket relief valve by itself was recommended to me by most people who advised me. The gear uses additional horsepower at all rpm. I can see how the high volume gear with or without the aftermarket relief valve would be of benefit at low rpm and that might be more important for a turbo.

However, Aly's problem seems to be having the high volume gear, not NOT having it. Further, I think he said he heard the engine knocking while the bike was idling in the garage. From our conversation, that would be the rpm at which a high volume gear would actually have been increasing oil pressure. Increased oil pressure shouldn't cause decreased lubrication to rod bearings. The problem remains a mystery.
I hear the knocking noise when I start to rav up little bit I I’ve ideal
 
You have it back together already? I wish I could work that fast.

If you're hearing the knocking noise again, obviously that's a warning. If the new parts are making the same noise as the old parts, you can assume the problem is not those parts.

You could try running it with extra oil in the crankcase. If it doesn't make that noise, then probably you have found the solution to the problem.
 
You have it back together already? I wish I could work that fast.

If you're hearing the knocking noise again, obviously that's a warning. If the new parts are making the same noise as the old parts, you can assume the problem is not those parts.

You could try running it with extra oil in the crankcase. If it doesn't make that noise, then probably you have found the solution to the problem.
no I talk about the old engine noise I still didn’t finish disassemble it already
 
Is it possible with your high volume gear and flat pan and after running extended time at high rpms you pumped enough oil in the top end and transmission area that it could not return fast enough to refill the pan? I've heard of this at Bonneville
Actually I started to think the same way coz i was tuning for like 1.5 to 2 kilometers not just 1/4 mile, so it seems to me that it’s oil problem and I need to run more oil or just back to the stock oil pump gear. I didn’t have any problems before and I now while disassembling the engine everything looks normal noting strange or damage except the bearing of connecting Rod in the 1st cylinder and it also bend the pin for the piston
 
Damages

62A97A94-1139-4EBC-A3D5-9A6AD673E2F2.png


536C493A-8CFC-4FEE-ACEB-7D37920D280D.png


7CBAFDEC-BF2D-4B20-A4D9-DB236AEA0369.png


9FF77A73-C0CD-4EDC-A513-3F847C9C5CF1.png


5F4CA7DB-6816-4570-8A26-FAAA27B4CC4F.png
 
competent machine shop can repair the rod cheaply
Crank can be fixed also
Crank in the motor in my bike has a repaired journal for 10k miles

And I would put a oil pressure gauge on for a while when you get it back together
Where did you fix it APE?
Can I connect the pressure gauge to the same place where I am connecting the turbo oil line and T them both together?
 
Back
Top