What is the definition of a real hard running streetable take anywhere busa?

[RedBull]

For me ,
260 - 300 hp
would be more
than adequate . . .

I would like it
to be enjoyable ,
so has to be reliable
on the street , and packed
with more grunt than a pig farm ! ! !

 

[KYBUSA502]

I appreciate everyone's reply and input. I am a street / highway guy and for now I think I just wanna break into the 210 220 hp range on my gen 1. What are some simple things I can do that isn't too expensive to get me there and also point me in the direction I can get those parts cheap as I can get them!

 

[Mr Brown]

I appreciate everyone's reply and input. I am a street / highway guy and for now I think I just wanna break into the 210 220 hp range on my gen 1. What are some simple things I can do that isn't too expensive to get me there and also point me in the direction I can get those parts cheap as I can get them!

Short answer? Spray it. Figure 180 from a good pipe and tune, 40 shot dry on top of that.

 

[1busa]

I appreciate everyone's reply and input. I am a street / highway guy and for now I think I just wanna break into the 210 220 hp range on my gen 1. What are some simple things I can do that isn't too expensive to get me there and also point me in the direction I can get those parts cheap as I can get them!

Did you click on the thread I posted below the pic of my bike???

Pretty much lays out every mod and accessory I did to the bike

 

[BubbaChalk]

I can take my busa to the strip

I can take my Busa on back roads and surprise GSXR 750’s and R6’s

I can take my Busa out on the highway and piss off ZX14R’s

Never did a track day but with a 6” arm it’s not impossible to do

I can ride my Busa 800 miles in a day and not worry about my engine melting......

It’s not all about HP and straight line speed. If you trim the fat off the Busa and increase HP you’ve got a well rounded potent combination that can allow you to have a Swiss Army Knife Style of bike.

What engine do you have ?

 

[busakiller]

I appreciate everyone's reply and input. I am a street / highway guy and for now I think I just wanna break into the 210 220 hp range on my gen 1. What are some simple things I can do that isn't too expensive to get me there and also point me in the direction I can get those parts cheap as I can get them!

Did you ever build a motor for your bike?

 

[1busa]

What engine do you have ?

See previous post.....

 

[Yellow09]

The bike I have now fits the definition of the thread title...

 

[Kevin Jones]

Ive built NA 1441s that put down 220+ real rwhp, not advertised. Ill not speak to the mods and stages the big names have versus what they would put out on another dyno. Ive had and still do setups that make more than that. However, the most fun combination and affordable combo ive made is a std bore gen 1 at 13.5:1 with 2 intakes and a mildly ported head at 104/106. 190ish to the rear with an unbaffled sidewinder. The power is right there and its not too much to just spin. My 1441s are great, however, I wouldn't want to go a long way ride with one and they do not like stoplights or 25mph or 30 for that matter. Neither does my zx14 which is essentially a mild stroker. Just my 2 cents. A lot of the guys at the track have dailys that are gen 2s with a 40 shot. they run VERY good. id say that's the easiest way especially since you don't need a piggyback nitrous controller and all in all less than $1k including tune.

 

[KYBUSA502]

What do you consider to be big power?

The reality of high power NA bikes is they generally suck on the street. This is largely do to the fact that once you near the 240hp mark, the cams needed to support that power at rather large. In the typical cruising and low rpm range they tend to do what’s call cam surge. So when trying to sustain a constant rpm, the engine surges up and down a few hundred rpm making for a jerky ride.

With N.A. bikes making over 240hp the compression ratio is usually right on the edge of the limits of 93 pump gas. Catch a bad tank of fuel, and you could potentially run in to some costly repairs.

Nearing the 250 and up HP range and you’re talking about a substantial increase in displacement. A larger engine coupled with high compression and they tend to have a hard time staying cool specially in the southern states.

Also, on the topic of large displacement, you’re usually talking about a sizable increase in stroke. This causes two issues. One: the big end of the rods have much more extreme of an angle to them. This puts a lot more load on the rod bearing causing the bearing to wear much faster. This also makes stroker motors more susceptible to spinning rod bearings. If you’ve followed motorcycle forum for sale sections, or are on sales pages on Facebook, if someone’s selling a stroker crank, it’s usually under one of two circumstances. It’s a good deal because it has one or more spun rod journals, but can be repaired. Or it just came back from being repaired because it spun a rod bearing.

The other common problem with large stroker motors excessive wear to the thrust sides of the pistons. Because of the extreme rod angle and traveling so far down in the bore, the pistons tend to rock in bore.

Lastly, most of the stroker cranks on the market are re-welds unless you’re willing to drop some major coin on a billet crank. The camshafts also tend to be re-welds too. The welded portions are notorious for failing and causing expensive repairs. That why I insisted on using billet camshafts for my Warhead package that I install on some of my turbo builds.

IMO Making “big power” NA yeilds the lowest HP per dollar spent. Going off carpenter racing’s website $5300 will get you 230-240hp. The next step is the 265hp package for $12,000!!! Or you could spring for the 290hp package for $16,000. You’d have to absolutely hate money to spend that much for so little power in comparison to going turbo. Take one of my turbo kits for example. For less then $4k and a weekend in the garage you can bolt on 260hp on a stock motor on 93 pump gas. Buy a $45 can of e98, and jump the hp to 300hp just by pouring in fuel and switching the map.

But if that instant torque, is enough to make you refuse going turbo, I can always get you set up with a supercharger.

ok so what I didnt like about turbos was I wanted to my bike to look as tho it's just another hayabusa with a sidewinder and I see alot of turbo guys running those little short pipes. me personally I absolutely hate that sound. but recently I've been seeing alot of guys running actual turbos with SIDEWINDERS! I love that sound of a good 4 into 1 with a wide open can. so now I'm more open to it vs all motor. especially when it comes to reliability and making power. all I was looking for was something along the lines of 220-230.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

ok so what I didnt like about turbos was I wanted to my bike to look as tho it's just another hayabusa with a sidewinder and I see alot of turbo guys running those little short pipes. me personally I absolutely hate that sound. but recently I've been seeing alot of guys running actual turbos with SIDEWINDERS! I love that sound of a good 4 into 1 with a wide open can. so now I'm more open to it vs all motor. especially when it comes to reliability and making power. all I was looking for was something along the lines of 220-230.

This is a full exhaust option I offer on my kits. Sounds nice and deep like a Brock’s. Can’t tell it has a turbo on it at all.