Just ordered one !! (DMS-20PC-1-DCM) I'll sleep better at night once it's on the bike!
Thanx Bro.
Cool, once you have it installed you can enjoy your ride and not worry if you are overloading your system
Below are the figures I came up with for my system. First thing to note is the Busa has a 400 watt stator at 5000 RPM, when the RPM's are lower the output will be lower as well. If you haven't already done so, I'd suggest switching to 35 watt HID headlights, as they will reduce your usage.
My Stock System:
Low Beam 35 watts
High Beam 35 watts
Position Lights 10 Watts (can pull the fuse for these since you can barely see them next to the HID anyway
)
Break/Tail ~5 watts (Busa has LED tail light)
Turn Signals 21 watts (I do not count these as they only get used briefly)
Plate Marker 5 watts (my tail is removed, so not factored in)
Instrument Panel ~2 watts
Computer ~25 watts
Fuel Pump ~60 watts
Electronic Ignition ~50 watts
Cooling Fan ~60 watts (I do not factor this in, as it will only come on at low RPM's in traffic etc and I can turn stuff off to compensate)
Turn
Total Minus fan and turn signals: 222 watts
So for normal everyday riding with the high beam on you need ~222 watts, that leaves 178 watts excess. Now to start adding in my farkles.
Radar Detector ~2 watts
GPS ~5 watts
Gerbings Jacket ~77 watts (at max without heat troller)
Gerbings Gloves ~22 watts (at max without heat troller)
LED Driving Lights ~60 watts
Total Farkles: 166 watts
Total Overall: 388 watts
So, for me with everything running, assuming I am at 5000 RPM and maintaining peak output, I am just shy of the limit. So when I ride with everything on when it's really cold, I need to gear down when cruising to make sure I am putting out peak current from the stator. My voltage will drop down between 13.2 to 13.5 in this situation, which is the minimum I am comfortable with. If it drops any lower or slowly keeps dropping I assume my battery is starting to drain and decide what I will turn down or turn off to bring voltage back up. Luckily most of the year I do not need to run heated gear at full blast, so I rarely run close to the limit. With just the liner at 1/2 power or so and the driving lights, I can stay at 13.8-14 volts with no problem.
Now to look at your farkles:
W&S Jacket: 96 watts (the specs on their site is 7.5 amps at 12.8 volts)
W&S Pants: 35 watts (2.7 amps at 12.8 volts)
W&S Socks: 18 watts (9 watts each in their site)
Radar Det: ~2 watts
GPS: ~5 watts
Charging a laptop will be about 40-60 watts - did not factor in since you can just not charge it when running the heated gear.
Total Farkles: 156 watts
So assuming you run 35 watt HIDs and don't have plate light, then you are using ~378 watts with your gear at max. If you are running stock lights (55 and 65 watts), that would add 50 watts to the mix, and put you over the 400 max (428). Also, the Warm and Safe specs on their site are at 12.8 Volts. Your bike when running will be higher than that, so assuming 13.8 volts, that will bring the wattage of the jacket to 103 watts (7.5A x 13.8V) and pants to 37 watts. So there is another 10 watts.
Anyway, I started rambling, so hope this was helpful
And I am seriously considering getting the high output stator from Rick's
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/press/2007-03-06High_Output_Hayabusa_Kit.pdf
Another 100 watts would be awesome!
