Ti Sprocket Nut--Possible?

[Berlin Germany]

@Mythos

big thanks for your correction

you are abs. right - it must be 28 NOT 18 Nm at the allen screw - i simply mistyped with my 1" wide fingers - lool - and didn't recognize my mistake.

[Mythos]

WOOP WOOP!! I received a reply from Robinson Industries today, Sunday.

"It [billet HD countershaft sprocket nut] is a direct replacement for the stock nut and will work with the stock rotor. 105 lbs ft seems a bit much, use whatever the factory calls for. Blue Loctite would be ok but you may have to apply some heat to remove it."

Pics coming soon. I purchased three (3) Robinson Industries Billet HD Countershaft Sprocket Nuts. Only problem, I don't think they're billet! Sure feel heavy for billet, look like black oxide finish, not black anodized....damn. I'll have to test with a magnet and weigh one of them against the OEM nut but if my common sense is serving me, I'd say they're steel.

If these puppies are steel, I'll try to send them back ($100 total cost). The ad definitely says the nut is made of billet. I can get Ti from Outlaw Performance.

[Mythos]

A magnet sticks to them. They're definitely not billet. I'll get a weight off of one before I return it.

[michael parris heuberger]

A magnet sticks to them. They're definitely not billet. I'll get a weight off of one before I return it.

Hi. There is billet aluminum billet titanium and billet steel. If you look up Robinson;:s busa out pot shaft support they come with steel nuts. I had him make billet 7575 aluminum nuts, and he made me a titanum clutch push rod.

[Mythos]

Yeah, I guess billet just means it's carved instead of cast. I'm pretty sure this is the first time I've bought something called billet that wasn't aluminum. Pretty much any Ti bolt is billet technically speaking but they don't usually call them billet 'cause people would think they were aluminum!

The Robinson's Industries nut is lighter than OEM. He shaved some weight by making the hex smaller. The Robinson's nut is also about 3/16" higher than OEM which means the speed sensor rotor rides a bit closer to the pickup. Also, 3/16" less threads the bolt that fastens the rotor and retains the sprocket
nut tight has to grab. As expected, no locking blades on the threads.

I must say, he did achieve exactly 25% lighter than OEM at a very reasonable price point. I should do better on weight with the Ti nut sold by Outlaw but it's going to cost me, I'm sure.

[Mythos]

I just got my SAE Outlaw Performance Ti sprocket nut in the mail. Just a touch lighter than the Robinson's sprocket nut. The flats of the nut are OEM sized and they're taller at the corners because they have just a slight bevel at the top. No locking blades on the threads. I will probably use a small touch of locktite on the top couple threads. The OEM nut had locktite on all the threads.

[Mythos]

There's a steel plate and foam rubber dampener inside the sprocket cover. It's a safety feature intended to protect your foot incase the chain ever comes off and bunches up in the sprocket cover. You might want to think twice before removing the plate and foam but it's 7 ounces off the bike if you do. There's also a steel plate in there to keep the clutch slave cylinder from popping out. That can't really be deleted or there would be a mess every time the sprocket cover got removed. I'm going to replace the screws for the slave cylinder plate with aluminum bolts. I got one screw loose and the master cylinder started protruding instantaneously. I'll have to C-clamp the master cylinder and plate to keep the cylinder from popping out while the bolts are removed. I don't know if the whole cylinder would pop all the way out right away or if it would just come out a little bit but I'm clamping it. Better safe than sorry.