Talk me down from the ledge...

[m_ridgeway]

So the socket type worked out? That's good. I belive they are supposed to be tapped on.
And x2 on how did they got bent. I would check the exhaust gasket or just change them as well.
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[fillmore nyc]

I've given up on the project for this evening, but thought I'd ask here if anyone has any ideas before I execute plan B which is pulling out the Sawzall and cutting the stock pipe out of the way so I can get a pair of vice grips on the bolt head.

Can you get ANYTHING in there to shear/cut/grind the bolt head off without killing the header? Even a hacksaw blade on one of those little plastic handles, and just cut the shid out of it for as long as it takes (which is gonna seem like forever).
If so, just do away with the bolt, pull the header off over the bolt and then use Vice Grips on the left over bolt stud.

If you cant get anything to the bolt head, you might be left with no choice other than trashing the header. IF you go that route, make DAMN sure you dont eff the bolt up... you're gonna have to get it out regardless.
Good luck, bro.
lease:

[F=MA]

Okay, to update everyone who was kind enough to offer suggestions, and to close this thread with the solution that worked so others may benefit....

I went to Sears again this afternoon. I found a set of extractors similar to what twotonevert recommended, but they had a little longer cutting tooth area than the ones he originally linked me to. I also found a set of extractors like sixpack577 suggested in post #50. I also bought a set of ball head metric allen head sockets...didn't think they'd be able to remove the bolts, but I thought it'd be worthwhile to have them for reinstallation and future ill advised mechanical challenges I might undertake.

I was unsuccessful finding the tool gmmech07 recommended.

Started with the least damaging...ball head allen sockets. As I suspected, the bolts were already too far gone for these, but it didn't hurt to try them first.

Second attempt with the extractors that fit over the bolt head. I was pretty skeptical these would work since the bolts are round to start with on the exterior. As I suspected I was unsuccessful on this attempt.

Third attempt with the screw extractor and a drill. I think these might work on bolts that are a higher grade, but the stock bolts are, as I wrote before, almost as soft as butter, so within about a half a second I had completely drilled any semblance of an allen head out of the bolt...without any progress.

I went and got the Sawzall, installed a new blade with much pomp and circumstance, where my bike could see what was in its immediate future if it didn't choose to cooperate.

Not so subtle threat completed, I went back to the extractor tool similar to what twotonevert recommended. I inserted a 3" extension, got a hammer, and beat the extractor onto one of the two bolts. Then I attached the ratchet and very carefully started applying force. Finally all the stars aligned as the hardened teeth of the extractor bit into the butter-like metal of the bolt, causing it to turn...almost imperceptably at first. A half turn was about all it took before I was able to unscrew the offending metallurgical wonder by hand. Repeat for problem bolt number two...again met with success.

Interestingly enough, both of these bolts are bent significantly.



I suspect the display of the Sawzall played a role in my success, but I can't prove it.

Some pics of the problem children after extraction...ignore the sensor spots:

This one shows the damage the extractor did inside the "butterbolt", much as gmmech07 predicted. Again, I think the extractor would work better on higher grade bolts.

And to illustrate how bent the bolts are now:

Thanks again all for the suggestions.

Can you get ANYTHING in there to shear/cut/grind the bolt head off without killing the header? Even a hacksaw blade on one of those little plastic handles, and just cut the shid out of it for as long as it takes (which is gonna seem like forever).
If so, just do away with the bolt, pull the header off over the bolt and then use Vice Grips on the left over bolt stud.

If you cant get anything to the bolt head, you might be left with no choice other than trashing the header. IF you go that route, make DAMN sure you dont eff the bolt up... you're gonna have to get it out regardless.
Good luck, bro.

Thanks for the well wishes. Challenge overcome.

[2hip]

F=MA...thanks for the great thread...why i really liked this thread..it is all about me and my misadventures in the garage...I am like Don Quixote..the dreamy Spanish gallant man about town with out a clue sometimes. My biggest problem is that I'm not afraid...which is often a two edged sword. You even think the same thoughts I do when faced with the mechanical "you little *****" wall. Persistance and the cavalry played its course. I have my bike completely torn apart right now and muffler is next...so, I read this with great interest...maybe your misadventure will save me from some of the cussing out. Also..it was of great interest to me to hear some of the remedies...Like I never had heard of the ball allen wrench...or heating the header to loosen the bolts...great ideas...and tomorrow I will be spending another 100+..just in case...2hip

[sixpack577]

Don't you just love those "SIMPLE" jobs! Glad it worked out. Got the new one on yet?

[F=MA]

F=MA...thanks for the great thread...why i really liked this thread..it is all about me and my misadventures in the garage...I am like Don Quixote..the dreamy Spanish gallant man about town with out a clue sometimes. My biggest problem is that I'm not afraid...which is often a two edged sword. You even think the same thoughts I do when faced with the mechanical "you little *****" wall. Persistance and the cavalry played its course. I have my bike completely torn apart right now and muffler is next...so, I read this with great interest...maybe your misadventure will save me from some of the cussing out. Also..it was of great interest to me to hear some of the remedies...Like I never had heard of the ball allen wrench...or heating the header to loosen the bolts...great ideas...and tomorrow I will be spending another 100+..just in case...2hip

If someone else can benefit from my struggles it makes them worthwhile. Well maybe not worthwhile, but less painful.

Don't you just love those "SIMPLE" jobs! Glad it worked out. Got the new one on yet?

Thanks. I had to fill in for a sick employee this morning, and tomorrow I'm headed to Phoenix for a week long tour of the area, so tonight is dedicated to relaxing and preparing for the trip. Judging from the photos I posted, the camera needs some attention before I do any serious work with it.

There's four inches of snow on the ground here, so the only reason to try to push to get the project done is so I don't forget what I've done so far during disassembly. I'll have to pick the project back up in a week or two.

[jdsbusa]

Your bolts have A LOT of corrosion on them. I ride in any kind of weather except ice and mine (on an '07) never looked like that when I pulled them to install new exhaust. Definitely get some better bolts from the local hardware store!

[F=MA]

Your bolts have A LOT of corrosion on them. I ride in any kind of weather except ice and mine (on an '07) never looked like that when I pulled them to install new exhaust. Definitely get some better bolts from the local hardware store!

I was shocked myself. One year and 4000 miles...though the first 2500 miles were ridden from January to April. Lots of salt on the roads.

I didn't buy the bike to be a garage ornament, investment, or show queen though. I bought it to ride.

You can all crucify me now.

[Mr Bogus]

lol, threat by sawzall... good job.. patience and a good threat can go a long ways

sure reamed the innards out of those guys... whew...

[F=MA]

lol, threat by sawzall... good job.. patience and a good threat can go a long ways

sure reamed the innards out of those guys... whew...

You have experience superior to mine in these matters...what are your thoughts with upgrading to stainless steel bolts? Risk of damaging threads tapped in the head, or potential issues with siezing?

I'm sure there are reasons for the factory bolts. Just curious what the potential downside would be to changing to a material more likely to stand up to the abuse I am capable of dishing out when I perform maintenance?

[jdsbusa]

I was shocked myself. One year and 4000 miles...though the first 2500 miles were ridden from January to April. Lots of salt on the roads.

I didn't buy the bike to be a garage ornament, investment, or show queen though. I bought it to ride.

You can all crucify me now.

Nah, not like that. But a wash every now and then after a salty ride wouldn't help.

[F=MA]

[Fastfrog007]

Glad it worked out, make a few notes of any odd things that you had to do for disassembly, they will be your best friend in a few weeks.

[F=MA]

Glad it worked out, make a few notes of any odd things that you had to do for disassembly, they will be your best friend in a few weeks.

I've been drawing a diagram of where all the little pieces landed in the garage for future reference. I view it as similar to an archaeological dig.

[StromBusa]

The Humanity Use some anti seize on the install please , and a torque wrench

[Liltroy]

you seem to have the same luck with "simple tasks" as I do.

[jdsbusa]

You have experience superior to mine in these matters...what are your thoughts with upgrading to stainless steel bolts? Risk of damaging threads tapped in the head, or potential issues with siezing?

I'm sure there are reasons for the factory bolts. Just curious what the potential downside would be to changing to a material more likely to stand up to the abuse I am capable of dishing out when I perform maintenance?

Don't know about stainless, that's a hard-ars material there! I got some black bolts for mine, held up great and been in-out twice now with no problems. No corrosion either! I think they were about $1.10 each at Ace.

[Mr Bogus]

I know some stainless bolts are rated higher than grade 8 ... but they are pretty and do not corrode much at all..

For what you are doing? I would not worry much about it either way.. odds are pretty slim you will be back here again (pipe replacement).. Just find bolts that fit and torque correctly (yea have fun with that one)

The best method I have found is to run upper and lower bolts down to just snug.. Tighten the almost impossible bolts first, then pull down the easy to access bolts last.

The flange sort of "rockers" on the pipe and it will actually put more stress on the lower bolt as the top one goes tight..

Clean the bejesus out of the pipes before ever turning the key.. any fingerprints, oil or residue will stain the new pipe pretty bad..

Run to operating temp, let cool down retorque the bolts and go...

I like loctite myself but that can be a real PITA later.. still , I use it so I do not retorque the bolts

[F=MA]

Thanks guys.

[mynewride]

my brocks full system came with fancy stainless hardware. these bolts do not need 2 stretch like head bolts. the flange acts like a clamp as it tightens. i would never use locktite on header bolts. make sure you use anti sieze as the aluminum head will corrode with a steel bolt. i use copper antisieze on my headers. they have a couple thousand miles on them and have been off to replace a section of my header as there was a leaking weld down on one of the lower joints. brocks replaced the header no questions asked. and my header bolts were a snap to get off and back on. no leaks to report yet.