Talk me down from the ledge...

[F=MA]

I knew there was a reason I didn't pursue a career as a mechanic.

After much debate, I decided to get a Yoshimura R-77 full system for my Gen 2. With 4000 miles on the bike I worked up enough ambition this afternoon to warm up the garage, pull the plastic off the bike for the first time (first time that I've ever taken plastic off a motorcycle, not the first time for the bike), change the oil, and install the R-77.

Got the plastic off without too much struggle...30 minutes on the right side, and five minutes on the left side...only broke a couple of things...about what I expected, though I'm not convinced it'll go back together so quickly...or ever, for that matter.

Now for the show stopper...two of the bolt heads holding the factory header on have stripped. They are both at the bottom location on two different ports. I can't get a vice grip in there.

I've given up on the project for this evening, but thought I'd ask here if anyone has any ideas before I execute plan B which is pulling out the Sawzall and cutting the stock pipe out of the way so I can get a pair of vice grips on the bolt head.

Why did Suzuki use such mild steel bolts to hold the exhaust system on?

[twotonevert]

Ooh, I wish I could help, hang on, others will chime in with some advice, but I wouldnt cut the header off just yet.

[zukracer]

I dont have the answer, but what I do have... nah dont have that either

Just take a break, have a drink and I'm sure someone will chime in with some better words of wisdom than mine Perhaps there is even a local member or 3 that can help

[F=MA]

I'm not very bright, but I do know when to walk away from something for a bit.

[m_ridgeway]

Craftsman sells a tool that goes over a bolt head to turn stripped bolt heads. They may bite on the outside of those bolts.
Posted via Mobile Device

[sixpack577]

Sears close by? Craftsman makes several different bits for gettin out rounded bolts and allen heads, they work great. In the meantime, wouldn't hurt to spray some penatrating oil of some kind on them.

[sixpack577]

Beat me to it they really do work good

[F=MA]

Craftsman sells a tool that goes over a bolt head to turn stripped bolt heads. They may bite on the outside of those bolts.
Posted via Mobile Device

I wonder how well that tool would work on a bolt that was round on the outside to begin with? Thanks for the thought...if nothing else comes along that seems to have a higher probability of success I'll visit Sears tomorrow and see what they have.

[twotonevert]

What about an easy out? Drill the bolt head and use the tool to back them out?

Good reviews too.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P?keyword=easy+out+bolt+remover

[m_ridgeway]

I think it'll work. You tap them on and they dig in deeper when you turn them.
Posted via Mobile Device

[F=MA]

Okay looks like two votes now for a visit to Sears tomorrow. There's one five minutes from my home, so I've got that going for me.

[djsin]

if you let the engine warm up...those bolts break lose real easy, but dont burn yourself

[sixpack577]

I wonder how well that tool would work on a bolt that was round on the outside to begin with? Thanks for the thought...if nothing else comes along that seems to have a higher probability of success I'll visit Sears tomorrow and see what they have.

They have saved me many times, money well spent.

[F=MA]

What about an easy out? Drill the bolt head and use the tool to back them out?

Good reviews too.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P?keyword=easy+out+bolt+remover

I tried one of those once about twenty years ago and all I ended up with was a bolt with an easy out broken off in it.

Plus I think to get a drill in there I'd probably have to pull the forks off the bike...and that's way beyond what I want to do.

[Mr Bogus]

part 1: bolts round off or out due to crap tools or a wrench not really seated correctly.. poor materials and tolerance stack up is are issue on cheaper tools..

On those bolts? my guess is the allen wrench was a bit long in the tooth and you were not able to full seat the thing before cranking them loose.. You either need to "grind" the working end down so it will clear or buy a shorter one to start with..


Part 2: if you take a drift punch and put it up against the side of the bolt and give them a decent whack (and we are NOT trying to knock the head off, just shock the things a bit) they may just loosen up enough for you to get out with a plier or vice grip..

If that does not work, you might be able to fire up the motor for a couple minutes and then shut it off.. let it age a few minutes and then try again.. the head may get enough heat in it to let go of the bolts.. you can squirt some water on the pipe and bolt if need be, just do not cool the head off..

[F=MA]

Actually twotonevert the link you posted is to something different than what I used...but I don't think there's enough clearance around the bolt head to get one of those on it.

[sixpack577]

They have saved me many times, money well spent.

They look like a socket, only with teeth inside that the harder you turn, the more they bite.

[ibified]

+1 on warming the engine up. They should break away pretty easy if you heat cycle it. Torque specs on those bolts is NOT high at all. like 37.5 ft lbs if i remember right. Are you certain that you were using a metric head allen wrench to remove them? If you were using an SAE, it might explain why they stripped out so easily.

[Mr Bogus]

I am sure that any extractor tool is a useless endeavor (clearance issues) if these are hex head bolts, you can probably find a "snap on" truck and by a regular 6 point flank drive wrench.. .they work like magic on this stuff... I just assumed they were the same as the Gen1 and used an allen wrench

[sixpack577]

Yeah, heat works good, Try holding an extension against them and gently tapping with a hammer too.