Syncing throttle bodies re-visited

[Aquaman]

Ok,my bike is a brand new 06 with approx 1500 miles...Do I need to sync the throttle bodies? Should it have already been done at the factory and is still ok?
Or is it never really synced until you actually do it yourself.
I have been reading it here a lot lately,but I never seem to catch just when it needs to be done.


Thanks

 

[ranman]

good

??

 

[BigGeorge]

 

[Aquaman]

Crickets chirping.....

 

[ranman]

this topic will get intrest if i type. is a tre worth it?
now they will come

 

[omslaw]

this topic will get intrest if i type. is a tre worth it?
now they will come

LOL!

 

[omslaw]

OK, so I don't have an answer to your question, but I just got done sync'ing my t-bodies and she's running much smoother!

 

[BusaWhipped]

I sync mine every 7,500-8,000 miles. I know its past time when she starts idling rich.

 

[Sloto200]

i have an 05 and i sync'd my TB's at about 4000 miles... it made a big difference in the way it sounded and the way it ran... it was off, not by a lot but enough that when they were sync'd it made a difference!

 

[busa boyz]

sync @ 2000 it would definitely need it

 

[loboboy]

Call me Anal-retentive but I check mine every season. It won't hurt to at least check them.

 

[Over_Easy]

Alright, sorry...12th man here and all...what in Sam's hell is syncing the throttle bodies?

 

[busa boyz]

Alright, sorry...12th man here and all...what in Sam's hell is syncing the throttle bodies?

it's a simple thing to do:each t.b has a nipple to hook up a sync hose to adjust the butterfly valve inside the t.b to achieve smooth thottle responce and idle.funny thing is back in the day of carbs we used to say sync the carbs but we were really syncing the t.b's like we do now.

 

[iain]

Just re-did mine last weekend. I had bought an aftermarket four-gauge setup to do the work, but one of the gauges went south in a big way - not sure wtf happend...
Anyway, I just used two of the gauges; basically calibrate one against the other on the #1 nipple, then leave one gauge on the #1 cyl and do the others sequentially. It actually seems to have worked better.
You will need to dampen the needle fluctuations by restricting the airflow through the hoses - All you need to do is get the readings the same, the actual value isn't important for this job although you can use the vacuum readings to diagnose timing, valve and leakage problems.

If you REALLY want to cheap out, I think you could probably use just one gauge and try to get the readings as close as possible by memory/eyeball. This may not work too well if you did lots of chemicals in the '60s